barricade88 Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 I have a 78 Datsun 620 and need to know how many bolts are in the rear end. I bought the gaskets for it but need to know if it's the 8 bolt pattern or 10. Please help Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Is there a reason you cant look under your truck and count them? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Most gaskets are NLA and Nissan suggests sealer in a tube. Check out the Permatex sitehttp://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/specialty-gasket-maker/permatex-motoseal-1-ultimate-gasket-maker-grey-detail 10 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 I have a 78 Datsun 620 and need to know how many bolts are in the rear end. I bought the gaskets for it but need to know if it's the 8 bolt pattern or 10. Please help Are you leaking, otherwise, leave it be unless you are going to another set of gears/different gearing. Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted May 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 I want to put different gears in it. But I don't know how... Or what to look for. I'm replacing the seal for the drive line and the gasket Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted May 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 And I can't count them because there's about an inch of oil and grease on it... Quote Link to comment
Fatal620 Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Got a thing against Brake cleaner/Degreaser? I mean your going to have to clean it eventually just to get it apart. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 A lot of "rear leakage" is caused by the vent on the axle tube being plugged up.When this happens,the oil is forced past the gasket.Clean your rear end. ANd you can't just go throwing a new ratio in there with out trade-offs. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 I want to put different gears in it. But I don't know how... Or what to look for. I'm replacing the seal for the drive line and the gasket It's not that hard to change out a rear pumpkin(gearset), do you already have your new gears? If you come over, we can figure out what gears you have now, and what you might want to go to, it would likely take 10 or 15 minutes to find out what you have now. PM me, do you still have my number, call me if you do. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 The '78 manual and automatic had 4.375 diff gears in it. What are you trying to achieve with a gear change??? Better performance, better mileage? Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted May 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Yeah, I'm trying to put better gears that pick up faster and not hauling gears.. And I want to get under it and look but all I have is a jack and I'm doing it by myself.. And if I can I'd love to get better mpg. Instea of 15 mpg.. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Yeah, I'm trying to put better gears that pick up faster and not hauling gears.. And I want to get under it and look but all I have is a jack and I'm doing it by myself.. And if I can I'd love to get better mpg. Instea of 15 mpg.. If all you do is lower(numerically)the ratio,your MPGs will get WORSE.You're at least 10 MPG below what you should be getting.Find the problem and fix it.Hint:VERY few people know Webers well enough to get them right. Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted May 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Yeah, I have a weber... And I can't fix my bogging and backfiring out of the carb... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 You should be getting 22-25 and closer to 30 on trips. 15 could be one, some or all of the following... Choke ON all the time. Choke heater not working or choke heater relay not working or disconnected. Choke linkage stuck. Ignition timing retarded. Should be 12 degrees BTDC. Ignition vacuum advance not working stuck or unplugged Plugs dirty, bad wires cap and rotor need replacing Gas leak. Tank or loose clamp on line. Valve lash incorrect. Tight valves. Incorrect tire pressure. Bad front end alignment Brake(s) dragging the drums. Crushed exhaust pipe Engine running cold... thermostat stuck open or missing. Dirty air filter Driving habits: Jack rabbit starts waste gas because the carb runs a richer mixture than accelerating slowly. Following too close forces you to hit the brakes constantly. Remember every MPH was gained at the cost of fuel you paid for. Every time you hit the brakes you are throwing away the fuel used to get you up to speed. Anticipate stops and slow down gradually... sometimes the light will change and you won't have to stop. It takes four times as much energy to push through the air at 80 MPH as it does at 40 MPH. Double the speed is 4 times the air resistance. Long warm ups. Your truck is instantly ready to drive after starting. Thirty seconds of warm up is lots. Junk in the trunk. Every pound of weight requires gas to accelerate up to speed. Empty it out. Tire pressure. Firm tires roll with less effort. Under inflated, waste gas and ultimately ruins the tire. Run at the recommended pressure. Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted May 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Thanks!! I do need to check my tires but the distributor is new and my vacuum advance is working, and I put in a new mechanical fuel pump. I'm going to take off my valve cover and check the valves with a fuler gauge I got. And I'm starting to hear a little knocking and I just changed my oil Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted May 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 And last time I check my timing was just above 10. I think next I need to find a timing mark and make sure all that is dead on. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Beware of chain stretch or the head was cut and thay didn't advance the cam gear properly.If any of this is true,they looking at markings won't mean squat.If the head has been cut any more than 5 thou,the gear needs to be on the #2 hole at least. Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted July 20, 2013 Report Share Posted July 20, 2013 I'm having the same with my diff it's leaking Through that seal, what do I have to clean? Is there a post on here how to change the real main seal? Quote Link to comment
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