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L16 build help, pointers


alex843

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I have been around the forum for a while just rarely posted. I know there is a lot of knowledge out their in engine building so I want to know if you guys can help me out. 

I am currently building a L16 for my 521.

So need to order some pistons. I am going to install some 240z flat tops in it but need to know if I should order the ones with the valve reliefs in them? I am also planning on installing a CompCam with a 0.42 lift and a 268 duration. I will be running a 210 head (I know) with bigger valves. I want to build something I can run on the street. Thanks for your help

Alex

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I got the cam a while back. I have been buying things on ebay, and craigslist for a while. I have been trying to build this engine for the last 2-3 years. Lack of funds has been stopping me. But i figure that this is not such a hot cam i should not have any problems with clearance. Just want to get other peoples opinion/experiance.

As far as carburation goes i am still not sure. I had been running a single webber 40 DCOE. I also have a set of SU's, and some R1 mukunis. I do not have a intake manifold for the mukunis.

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All that stuff would fit on an L20B motor. It will cost the same to bore an L20B and replace the pistons as an L16 and with no mods at all will make about 20 hp more.

 

As for the L16 you need to have the cylinders measured. If too worn the L14 pistons will be too loose in the bores. It will need a .5mm overbore to match .5mm over bore pistons.

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IF, you are running L24 flattops you can run an open chamber head like the U67 from an L20B. They are common, easy to find, has matching square exhaust ports, large valves and ports. Your compression will be 8.63 on an unshaved head. You will probably have to grind away some of the cylinder tops to unshroud the valves.

 

A closed chamber head like an A87 would be 9.29

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throw the 210 head away. it was samll valves and ports and would not even help that cam out(and cost) and defeat the purpose.

Phooey... I run a ported out and polished 210 head with 280Z valves and it screams in my race car. It's just a lot of extra work opening up the ports. My intake ports are opened to almost 2 inch.

 

Check out my L16 grenade engine build :)

 

I ran L24 stock used pistons with new rings in a honed L16 block. Mine was within spec. & didn't need boring out. You may get lucky too :)

My L24 pistons are flat tops and I have 572 lift on my cam with no clearance issues.

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They don't flow as good as the u67, but they can be opened up a bunch and have higher compression, I love compression, that's why I build em'. :)

 

I usually just open the ports till they are the matched size for my intake manifold.

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was wondering the same thing when i got my 73 620 (L16 performance.)

same thing was told to me
"dont waste your money, get an L20"

well not like that but hey that rhymes!! and its pretty catchy too!

 

i rebuilt an L20, but now im workin on one of them damn frankenstein LZ23 thangs.

 

still runnin my old L16 though.

rebuilt open chamber A87, new weber 32/36, 2" exhaust from the Y back (in preps for L20+)

the thing is awesome, but that set up is pretty much for breathing at higher rpms.

it doesnt have anything below 2k (possibly because of exhaust, or other tuning issues IDK and IDC)

but then itll scream up to 5k really quick like

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