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custom primer 1979 280zx


ClassicDatsun

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That cold start injector is an easy fix just get a new one!

nope the wire that goes TO the valve has no voltage 

 

Ya veo, could be timing jumped a little and lash pads could need replacing get in that engine man check it as best possible! 

and now that i think of it when the car sat in my backyard when i was 13-14 (before i had a job to pay my dad for the car) i would sit in the car and turn it on then redline it pretending that i was racing....  :no:  i didn't know what i was doing

..... please forgive me

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unfortunately i now have to fix what happened, that is if it is what's wrong 

anyway its almost winter so ill have to store the car soon, hopefully in a garage this time instead of the backyard, so i can actually get some work done

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man i still can't get over how much attention i get in this car. 

last night at work some guy in the drive through asked to tak to the owner of the grey car sitting outside, so they called me to the window and he asked me if i was going to sell it, hell no! he started talking about his rx7 and i know this sounds messed up but i was thinkin to myself why do i care that you have an rx7?, maybe it was because the dumb ass call my car a Silvia,

which kinda ticked me off

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yea like can't tell bmw's apart, 

I also get people asking how much an I asking like if I'm selling my wagon lol...not gonna happen anytime soon.

ive gotten various people asking me if ill sell the car i always say no before they even finish their sentence. lol 

alot of people tell me oh you should do this to your car or why don't you race and really im getting tired of this, i have a firm vison of what the car's going to be and from looking at various build threads what's doable and what isn't, how much horses are obtainable and whats farfetched

 

by the way your wagon sit really nice although it needs slimmer bumpers ha

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by the way your wagon sit really nice although it needs slimmer bumpers ha

I been looking for the European or jdm bumpers (they are the same) Europe & u.s. Got the 810 wagon, japan didn't only the sedan & coupe. I can try 620 bumpers or Chevy nova ones since there slim bumpers.

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I been looking for the European or jdm bumpers (they are the same) Europe & u.s. Got the 810 wagon, japan didn't only the sedan & coupe. I can try 620 bumpers or Chevy nova ones since there slim bumpers.

yea i think 620 bumpers would look dope

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  • 1 month later...

hey does anyone know how many volts the battery is suposed to have while the engine is running mine read past 14 and once i turn on the lights it drops to 14 then some times the voltage drops close to 12-13 and the car has trouble staying on and i can't have the lights, music and heater on at the same time when this happens or else the car starts dying on me, i also received an electrical shock after i touched a spark plug wire when the volts had dropped to 12-13, but at 14 or more volts everything is fine

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

well the car still has both a fuel problem and an electrical problem. the car dosnt charge sometimes like when i have the lights on and a lil bit of music and step on the brakes the voltmeter drops from 14 to about 12 i checked with another voltmeter and the readings are the same. ive disconected the battery while the car is running and itll jump up to 14 then when i hook it back on itll drop to 12 but it does this with every battery i try so if any of you had had this problem please help me out

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well the car still has both a fuel problem and an electrical problem. the car dosnt charge sometimes like when i have the lights on and a lil bit of music and step on the brakes the voltmeter drops from 14 to about 12 i checked with another voltmeter and the readings are the same. ive disconected the battery while the car is running and itll jump up to 14 then when i hook it back on itll drop to 12 but it does this with every battery i try so if any of you had had this problem please help me out

Probably alternator going bad. If its not too expensive, I'd say swap it out and test it.  

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  • 3 months later...

well the car still has both a fuel problem and an electrical problem. the car dosnt charge sometimes like when i have the lights on and a lil bit of music and step on the brakes the voltmeter drops from 14 to about 12 i checked with another voltmeter and the readings are the same. ive disconected the battery while the car is running and itll jump up to 14 then when i hook it back on itll drop to 12 but it does this with every battery i try so if any of you had had this problem please help me out

Just like Ryoskatekov said it could be the alternator just going out slowly, or I was also thinking there could be maybe high resistance in the negative or positive side of the wiring from the alternator to the battery. Since high resistance uses up voltage like if it was a load.

 

Here are a couple of tests you can run to check the resistance of the + and - side of the charging circuits

 

Positive voltage drop test

1. Rev the engineto 1500 and 2000 holding it steady and apply a light electrical accessory load by turning the headlamps or heater blower fan on.

2. Set your dmm to DC voltage or voltmeter if it has a DC voltage reader ( if not just stop here)

3.Connect your Positive dmm lead to the output terminal or screw of the alternator

4.Connect  your negative dmm lead to the positive battery terminal

 

Test Results

If your dmm or voltmeter reads less then 0.2 volts the positive wiring between the alternator and battery positive terminal had a good electrical connection.

If it reads more then 0.2 volts there is high resistance between the alternator output terminal and the positive battery terminal. 

And if it reads source voltage which is either around 12 volts or 14 volts there is an open circuit between the two test points (most likely not you)

 

Ground side voltage drop test

1. Rev the engine to 1500 to 2000 and hold steadly and apply light accessory load, headlight or heater blower fan.

2. Connect your negative lead to the alternator case (the alternator itself)

3.Connect your positive lead to the negative battery terminal

 

Test results

If your dmm or voltmeter reads less then 0.2 volts the alternator is properly grounded

if your dmm or voltmeter reads more than 0.2 volts there is high resistance connection on the ground side of the charging circuit.

 

This is just one test out of many, I hope it helps you a bit too see if the wiring connections are good and have no high resistance.

If you do them let me know what the results are.

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Just like Ryoskatekov said it could be the alternator just going out slowly, or I was also thinking there could be maybe high resistance in the negative or positive side of the wiring from the alternator to the battery. Since high resistance uses up voltage like if it was a load.

 

Here are a couple of tests you can run to check the resistance of the + and - side of the charging circuits

 

Positive voltage drop test

1. Rev the engineto 1500 and 2000 holding it steady and apply a light electrical accessory load by turning the headlamps or heater blower fan on.

2. Set your dmm to DC voltage or voltmeter if it has a DC voltage reader ( if not just stop here)

3.Connect your Positive dmm lead to the output terminal or screw of the alternator

4.Connect  your negative dmm lead to the positive battery terminal

 

Test Results

If your dmm or voltmeter reads less then 0.2 volts the positive wiring between the alternator and battery positive terminal had a good electrical connection.

If it reads more then 0.2 volts there is high resistance between the alternator output terminal and the positive battery terminal. 

And if it reads source voltage which is either around 12 volts or 14 volts there is an open circuit between the two test points (most likely not you)

 

Ground side voltage drop test

1. Rev the engine to 1500 to 2000 and hold steadly and apply light accessory load, headlight or heater blower fan.

2. Connect your negative lead to the alternator case (the alternator itself)

3.Connect your positive lead to the negative battery terminal

 

Test results

If your dmm or voltmeter reads less then 0.2 volts the alternator is properly grounded

if your dmm or voltmeter reads more than 0.2 volts there is high resistance connection on the ground side of the charging circuit.

 

This is just one test out of many, I hope it helps you a bit too see if the wiring connections are good and have no high resistance.

If you do them let me know what the results are.

thanks dude but it stopped acting up

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i have something to confess I've been daily driving an 84 crx for about a month and it belongs to my little bro, and yesterday i bought a 87 crx soooo...... the zx is just sitting

FWD Gay, i cant say much since i drive a 6th gen celica. since i sold my z31. missing the RWD though.

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