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Weber ?s


Scurrvy

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I've decided I am going to order the 32/36 next payday. Friday the 15th to be exact. I need to know these things.

 

  1. What are the vacuum lines I remove/delete?
  2. Where do I find the filter to fit on the valve cover vacuum/vent?
  3. Will it pass the exhaust part of the emissions test with all the vacuum lines removed and caped off?
  4. Does it need to be tuned after install? 

It would be really helpful if I could get some answers. I've researched and I can't seem to find out what exactly I need to do. Becuase they either skip the vacuum removal or just don't talk about at all. And I need to know if it can pass the test because if not I can't register the truck which would really suck. 

 

 

Thanks,

Stephen. 

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1: Everything, if you disable/remove all the emissions, you only need vacuum lines to the dizzy for the vac advance

2: Route the vent to the air cleaner. They come with a 5/8th's elbow that goes on the air cleaner for the weber for that purpose.

3: You still have to pass emissions in TN? If you disable the emissions and remove all the vac lines to EGR etc, you won't pass.

4: As long as you buy the carb for a Z24, you'll be fine. If you buy one from an unknown motor used, then you'll probably need to jet it.

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1: Everything, if you disable/remove all the emissions, you only need vacuum lines to the dizzy for the vac advance

2: Route the vent to the air cleaner. They come with a 5/8th's elbow that goes on the air cleaner for the weber for that purpose.

3: You still have to pass emissions in TN? If you disable the emissions and remove all the vac lines to EGR etc, you won't pass.

4: As long as you buy the carb for a Z24, you'll be fine. If you buy one from an unknown motor used, then you'll probably need to jet it.

Yeah still have to pass emissions here. It's pretty lame, but I really hope I can some how keep some of the vac lines connected so it can pass because my car won't pass and I'm really wanting to get this truck on the road and to be my daily. 

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I just got a Weber 38 for my '86 720 z24 and got it to pass smog. Not sure if the carb is the same as the 32/36. I'm guessing the only difference is that the 38 is bigger.

 

Out here in Nevada, if they see that you plugged up your emissions then its an automatic fail.

 

I went with the Weber 38 because I thought why not get more power for just $20 more. I paid $294 for mine. It was well worth it. It's a daily for the family. Drive it everyday with no problems.

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I just got a Weber 38 for my '86 720 z24 and got it to pass smog. Not sure if the carb is the same as the 32/36. I'm guessing the only difference is that the 38 is bigger.

 

Out here in Nevada, if they see that you plugged up your emissions then its an automatic fail.

 

I went with the Weber 38 because I thought why not get more power for just $20 more. I paid $294 for mine. It was well worth it. It's a daily for the family. Drive it everyday with no problems.

Ahh okay, so you said you were going to post a video of how you hooked everything up? I may just get the 38 myself that way I can hook everything up and know it will pass since yours did. 

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Vacuum advance is needed as MM said. EGR is turned on and off by a ported vacuum signal from the carb just like the vacuum advance. Unless the weber has this the EGR won't be working.

 

Beware... some states still have to pass a visual inspection of the smog equipment

 

 

Can you tune it up now with the Hitachi carb, pass the smog exam and then swap the weber on????

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Well I just can't get it to start unless I pour a little gas into it, and even then it won't stay running when I let off the gas. I will get a video tomorrow of the process and what not. I've noticed the electric choke isn't plugged up..but the plugs don't match. 

 

And it seems that some of th vacuum lines aren't hooked up but I don't see where they could even hook up. 

 

I need to buy a repair manual. ha

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Alright uplaoding a crappy video of some of my vacuum lines and such. Tomorrow I'm going to take off the breather and everything to see what all is rigged up or isn't at all. I'll record that as well. 

 

 

 

 

Sorry in advance for the horrible video. 

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBQ5H6GRAX4

 

Recorded on my phone again but this is what it does when it starts and what not. I got my manual in the mail today, says it could be clogged fuel filter? Idk I'm going to buy a filter tomorrow and stuff. Oh yeah, don't dis the moccasins. :)

 

Engine off, hold choke plate open so you can see, look down the carb an pump the gas. You should see a strong squirt of gas from the accelerator pump into the primary barrel. (furthest from the valve cover) If not look at the round sight glass on the front of the carb. Can you see gas? It should be half way up the glass.

 

If there is gas in the carb but no spray then the accelerator pump is not working.

If no gas in carb find out why. Check the fuel pump is working. Replace the fuel filter... it's back at the tank. .

 

On a cold motor the choke plate should close when starting.

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Alright, the PO had the choke plate wired open completely and wouldn't close..So I removed the wire he had it tied with, and just barely had it open and it started up and ran until I opened it up fully and again when I closed it fully. Also doesn't want to run with the vacuum lines hooked up. 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukrmePKUyO4 

Okay this is when I opened the choke. it dies. 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGJU_8UM4N0

This is with ignition shut off. 

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I also did not see a squirt of gas. So it may be the accelerator pump then. But needless to say I'm pretty stoked that It ran. But now it's arcing off of this spark plug looking cap by the vacuum system on the driver side. It has two the one closest to the motor is plugged into the distributor cap. The one that is arcing isn't connected to anything. 

 

 

Also the carb is the cali emissions one. I was looking on orielly's and they have two reman. ones and the one on the truck looks just like the one for the california emissions. So would that be a problem as well seeing as I live in TN and don't need the feedback valve? 

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  • 3 weeks later...

You don't have to worry about visual inspection, but you will need to tinker with the carb to get it to pass tailpipe. I had to create a little vacuum leak to get it to pass. Basically leaned it out to lean misfire. I saw CO go to 0 and HC go up. If I was in the states, I'd come over and help, but alas, I'm in Afghanistan. Good luck.

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