xyzalvarez Posted June 28, 2008 Report Share Posted June 28, 2008 hey guys. need some help. removed the prop valve to paint the engine bay..and the tags i used to remember where each line goes to got lost.... 510 with stock prop, i have the impression of the lines coming from the MC, but i dont know the front / rear brakes.. please guys, just pop your 510 hood and check your lines... i really apreciate it... thanks a lot! Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 28, 2008 Report Share Posted June 28, 2008 It's not technically a proportioning valve, but anyways...only picture I have: Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted June 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2008 thanks man! i got the impression #3 goes to the driver side caliper, the #4 #5 goes to the MC...the #1 and #2 cant tell... Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 1, 2008 Report Share Posted July 1, 2008 Mat your a guy who's always thinking :D I've heard that time and time again... "It's not a proportioning valve." Then working on a dime that hadn't been on the road in who knows how many years I had to take apart that little guy and clean out the "growth" inside (actually green mossy stuff haha) anyways after seeing how it works I no longer believe it. It there for the safety light and so you will notice the pedal drop when one system fails. BUT it has springs of equal tension on each side, since the piston can move either way if pressures aren't equal. So in theory the front and rear get equal pressure due to that little guy. know there is also that little brass dude directly behind the engine, it has a very, very small whole. Basically allowing the fluid to go through very slowly, it will eventually get to the same pressure. So that must be there so if you slam on the brakes there rear won't lock up when all the weight shifts. After the fluid is given enough time all the pressures at each break are the same. So I do think it is a proportioning valve. I talked to Carter about it, but couldn't convince him of it! He said he would have to take one apart, I thought I explained it pretty damn well :D Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted July 1, 2008 Report Share Posted July 1, 2008 Fluid doesn't compress, though. I guess I'll have to look at it more closely, but from the way it looks, and the way you're describing it, it still just sounds like a failure switch to me - if either side fails the piston gets pushed in that direction and flips the switch. If the other side failed instead, the piston would get pushed that way and again flip the switch. That way there's just one switch for both circuits, but the circuits are still seperate. Those are my thoughts at the moment at least, I could be wrong! Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted July 1, 2008 Report Share Posted July 1, 2008 This should answer the original question: Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 1, 2008 Report Share Posted July 1, 2008 is it part#8 :confused: cant see #8 on it... its a distribution block that has a pressure failure switch in it. i dont think it specificlly proportions flow, but i think its designed to be connected 1 way only. ive seen installations w/o it used. Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted July 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 thanks Matt! now i got it ! so if isn't a prop valve , would be a good idea to add one? like those knobs style props from wilwood... i have the impression that the rear brakes ( drums ) use higher press compared with the fronts ( disc ) because some residual valves state 10 psi for the drums and 2 psi for disc brakes... thats why i though is a prop valve... but if is not... could be removed? and use aftermarket prop valve ? Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted July 2, 2008 Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 sorry to thread jack but would this valve cause my brake warning light to constnatly stay on Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted July 2, 2008 Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 thanks Matt! now i got it ! so if isn't a prop valve , would be a good idea to add one? like those knobs style props from wilwood... i have the impression that the rear brakes ( drums ) use higher press compared with the fronts ( disc ) because some residual valves state 10 psi for the drums and 2 psi for disc brakes... thats why i though is a prop valve... but if is not... could be removed? and use aftermarket prop valve ? Is there a reason you think you need one? Have you tried locking up your brakes? You may or may not need one, it's a function of your brakes and master cylinder. A residual valve is something completely different, for a different purpose. You might find this a good read: http://www.thebrakeman.com/valvetechi Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted July 2, 2008 Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 sorry to thread jack but would this valve cause my brake warning light to constnatly stay onCould be, sure. Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted July 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 Is there a reason you think you need one? Have you tried locking up your brakes? You may or may not need one, it's a function of your brakes and master cylinder.... well i aiming to restore the safety issue on the brakes...and i replaced the 510 MC with a 280zx ...dont know if a prop valve is require for it... im using maxima calipers in the back and 280 in the front.... if i can remove the stock " prop " and just run the lines will be great... but if i could get some " braking safety " using a prop its even better... what you guys think? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 2, 2008 Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 sorry to thread jack but would this valve cause my brake warning light to constnatly stay on un-hook it and see if the light goes out, it could also be your ebrake switch since its the same curcuit. when the wire is grounded out the light turns on, easy to check :D I got rid of the proprotioning valve in my car, it was before I took one apart and didn't think it was a proprotioning valve. I think a aftermarket one would be better for upgraded brakes since the factory one IN MY OPINION keeps equal preasure front to back. I want Mat to take the proprotioning valve and master apart so he can see what I'm talking about. To me it seems like it balences the system. The ZX master has a built in proprotioning system in the master. Basically a spring so the front brakes do most the stopping until the pedal is pushed firmly, or it could be so that the fronts ingauge first. Its been a while since I have taken one of those apart. I'm not an engineer but like to think I am :D Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 2, 2008 Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 if i can remove the stock " prop " and just run the lines will be great... what you guys think? ive seen installations w/o it used. :mellow: Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted July 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 ^^^ Got it !! prop gone then!! no more spider web lines !! woohoo! Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 un-hook it and see if the light goes out, it could also be your ebrake switch since its the same curcuit. when the wire is grounded out the light turns on, easy to check :D I got rid of the proprotioning valve in my car, it was before I took one apart and didn't think it was a proprotioning valve. I think a aftermarket one would be better for upgraded brakes since the factory one IN MY OPINION keeps equal preasure front to back. I want Mat to take the proprotioning valve and master apart so he can see what I'm talking about. To me it seems like it balences the system. The ZX master has a built in proprotioning system in the master. Basically a spring so the front brakes do most the stopping until the pedal is pushed firmly, or it could be so that the fronts ingauge first. Its been a while since I have taken one of those apart. I'm not an engineer but like to think I am :D I would guess that it's to engage the rears first. I think you're contradicting yourself :D xyzalvarez - I doubt you'll need anything extra, since the ZX came with discs in the rear as well, and I'd guess the calipers are the same size. I have both maxima and zx turbo rear disc calipers and they're pretty similar looking, just slightly different ebrake external mechs. Quote Link to comment
johnbureezu Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 So let me get this straight. If I'm running a 280zx M/C, I dont have to run the stock distribution block? I'll be using ford rear disc brakes and a wilwood proportioning valve. Sooooo I can run the lines directly from the M/C to the calipers??? :blink: Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 I would guess that it's to engage the rears first. I think you're contradicting yourself :D I might be contradicting myself in the post but everyone knows how well I write :D Dude you gotta take it apart then you will see what I am saying. So let me get this straight. If I'm running a 280zx M/C, I dont have to run the stock distribution block? I'll be using ford rear disc brakes and a wilwood proportioning valve. Sooooo I can run the lines directly from the M/C to the calipers??? :blink: You to John, take the factory stuff apart and tell me what YOU think, I really want to know your guys opinion!! I already have mine, but I don't like to give out brake advise, mostly when my opinion is the exact oposite of everyone elses... Quote Link to comment
johnbureezu Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Yeah, ur right. Me thinks its only a brake pressure switch of sorts. No proportioning there:p I think its just a brake pressure switch for the idiot light. May just keep it insitu 'cos i can be an idiot at times. Quote Link to comment
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