Oil pan can be removed while motor is in car?

[josh817]

I have an L20B motor in my 521. I used the L20B (from a 620 or something) oil pan, and it rubs on the steering rod/arm. I have the original L16 pan ready. I was planning on removing that cross member that is held in with 4 large bolts, and hopefully that is enough to get the pan down. As you all know, the steering rod sits up close to the slender part of the pan so I'm hoping I can drop the back down (the bulge) and slide it out.

 

 

Before I dismember my daily, any input on whether this will definitely work or not? I worry I won't be able to clear the sump.

 

Thanks

 

 

Oh and also, if I remove that cross member with the car jacked up, the torsion bars or something won't torque over the suspension will it? I can't remember if that cross member was integrated into the suspension or not.

 

Cross member in red, steering rod in blue

[Zeusimo]

Yes

[DanielC]

I did this on my project, this page.

http://community.rat...1/page__st__140

The steering part is easy, just remove the two bolts that hold the idler arm to the frame.

You can remove the cross member, and get it back in, I did, but it required some prying. Jacking the truck up, removing the wheels, and setting the frame on blocks all will allow the torsion bars to move to their most relaxed position.

 

You will need the L-16 oil pickup along with the L-16 521 oil pan.

[datzenmike]

Hammer and block of wood. Apply wood to pan and hammer to the wood until it clears.

[josh817]

I did this on my project, this page.

http://community.rat...1/page__st__140

The steering part is easy, just remove the two bolts that hold the idler arm to the frame.

You can remove the cross member, and get it back in, I did, but it required some prying. Jacking the truck up, removing the wheels, and setting the frame on blocks all will allow the torsion bars to move to their most relaxed position.

 

You will need the L-16 oil pickup along with the L-16 521 oil pan.

.... Damnit.... Glad you pointed that out. I don't have the pick up with me.

 

And Datzenmike, I would but I already have a leaky pan gasket in the front (or front seal) and the steering rod has worn away the pan. Just waiting for the day where it finally makes a hole.

 

Odd, I didn't think the pickup was different, just figured the sump on the pan was smaller than the L20B, yet in the same location.

 

Thanks for pointing that out! That's why I made this thread! :thumbup:

 

Oh and Daniel, I promise I will get you a shipping quote for all my 521 stuff if you still need. Its been final exam week over here...

[DanielC]

Josh, Still want the stuff.

No problem with the time delay. Ratsun came to me in April, 2011. Another day or three is not going to be a problem.

Finish your finals. Do good on them. That is hopefully the rest of your life.

[wayno]

I did it without removing the cross member, but it was a pain, I dropped the idler assembly, removed all the oil pan bolts and dropped the pan down as far as I could, then I removed one of the oil pickup tube bolts, and loosened the other, then I was able to twist the oil pickup tube just right and slide the pan out, the pain was getting the L16 pan in there with the gasket on it, slide the pan back up in there with the gasket attached, twist the oil pickup tube back in position, put the bolts back in and tighten them without disturbing the pan gasket, then bolt the oil pan back in and I hoped that it didn't leak, it added another hour and a half to the engine transfer.

BTW, it did not leak, and has not leaked to date.

 

EDIT 6:48pm

 

I did forget to mention that when I put that L20b pan on my LZ23 engine by mistake, I used an L16 oil pickup tube, so this makes me wonder if the L20b oil pickup tube is the same as the L16, and is why I did not remove the oil pickup tube when I changed pans.

[josh817]

I was thinking the same would happen to me. I always glue the gasket to the pan and let it set. I can definitely imagine trying to get it all in there with glue smearing on your hands and whatever. I will probably just go that route, and not touch the cross member, if I have to change the pick up anyway.

 

 

My next question, just confirming, any L engine front pulley will transfer one to another right? I'm running a three row from the L20B. If I find my front seal is the culprit it's easy enough for me to jack up the motor by 1/4" to get the pulley off. For some reason, mine sits just a 1/4" below the chassis down there so I won't be able to slide her off if I don't jack up the motor. I was just going to put my two row damper from my Z onto there. The L16 pulley had a dead keyway. Luckily the front seal comes out the front of the..... front... cover. Yah.... I appreciate the help.