Atomic Posted July 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 3 hours ago, docbainey said: atomic, for o ringing the block, use a fly cutter ground a hair thicker then safety wire. Cut grooves in the block where 1 n 2 and 3 n 4 intersect like 8s. Then its a mater of forming the wire to fit the figure 8 groove. when you put the wire in the groove its about .005" or so cant remember above the deck height and just use a stock head gasket. did this on our u20 after everything else failed including yamabond. that sht is hell to remove. I have a l20 block that we did that to but its late in the day to get a pic. Ill post pic when I can. cheers Hmm, did you use the O-rings to press against the fire rings of the stock gaskets? Otherwise the O-rings are just going to eat into the graphite? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 0.005" os about two thicknesses of newspaper. It won't cut into anything but will be an impenetrable pinch point. Is that the oil gallery above the cam position? Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 12 minutes ago, datzenmike said: 0.005" os about two thicknesses of newspaper. It won't cut into anything but will be an impenetrable pinch point. Is that the oil gallery above the cam position? Yeah the oil galley is above the cam, you can see the galleys going to main and cam bearings also from the sides Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 Could you tap into it and run a steel line down behind the cam between the lobes and to the cylinder's edge. It would need to be anchored with machine screws. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 Just now, datzenmike said: Could you tap into it and run a steel line down behind the cam between the lobes and to the cylinder's edge. It would need to be anchored with machine screws. Yes, that was my initial plan. Using npt threaded tap and run a hard line from it near the cylinder hole where it can be anchored down and spray under the piston skirt Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 I looked at this on an L series. But wasn't sure so I was bringing oil in from outside the block and drilling through the sides, course there was no can in the way. My reasoning was that I could shut it off if I didn't like the idea. Ordinary brake line would do, metric or any thread as long as the tap matched. I was just going to restrict the end of the tube and bend it upwards to spray the pistons keeping the end short so it wouldn't vibrate or flex. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 Just now, datzenmike said: I looked at this on an L series. But wasn't sure so I was bringing oil in from outside the block and drilling through the sides, course there was no can in the way. My reasoning was that I could shut it off if I didn't like the idea. Ordinary brake line would do, metric or any thread as long as the tap matched. I was just going to restrict the end of the tube and bend it upwards to spray the pistons keeping the end short so it wouldn't vibrate or flex. Yeah, I will have to take the bottom end open to remove the jets if I have to. I want npt threads because of their sealing capability, so I could plug the holes also if needed. And yeah, I was thinking about squishing the ends too, need to look into what size of holes are usually used. It could be interesting to know also if a flat head spray pattern is more effective than a direct stream from a hole. (squished head vs circular) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 Oil squirter used on an RB20. Under a mm? Ah, I have to go to work.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 I could also add a check valve to the oil jets so that they open up only when reaching certain oil pressure. So then they would spray only let's say above 2.5k rpm when the oil pressure is over 2.5Bars. I have seen some oil jets that have this check valve built in the housing Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2019 Hahhah, this oil cooler is huuuge: And arrived really quickly, less than 1 week from China to Finland, amazing! Postage was only 5 euros Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2019 Got the radiator mounted with a help of the threaded rivets again, that tool is worth every penny. I'm going to mount the right hand side to the front wall. I was lucky that the both oil cooler and the radiator clears out nicely together I can even access the overflow tank from this gap, superb! And then I went ahead and installed some waterproof connectors for the fans Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2019 Bought a set of 8x 750cc E85 Bosch high impedance injectors for 140 euros, remanufactured ones. Why 750, well that's for E85 and up to 250 hp at 3 bar fuel pressure. I'm only missing E85 fuel sensor for the E85 upgrade in the future now. For 98 octane gas these are good to around 350+ ish hp. But I think around 200-250 is more realistic with my case. But I definitely want to try e85. 2 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2019 Oof, A15 with 617 hp, I can't beat that 😄 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 31, 2019 Report Share Posted July 31, 2019 On 7/24/2019 at 11:56 AM, Atomic said: Got the radiator mounted with a help of the threaded rivets again, that tool is worth every penny. I'm going to mount the right hand side to the front wall. I was lucky that the both oil cooler and the radiator clears out nicely together I can even access the overflow tank from this gap, superb! And then I went ahead and installed some waterproof connectors for the fans With hood closed how will air circulate through this? It will radiate heat for sure but better if air flowing through it like the rad.Can you mount behind the rad? This would warm the oil faster from a faster warming coolant but also cool it when it reaches temperature. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2019 2 hours ago, datzenmike said: With hood closed how will air circulate through this? It will radiate heat for sure but better if air flowing through it like the rad.Can you mount behind the rad? This would warm the oil faster from a faster warming coolant but also cool it when it reaches temperature. I will put foam perimeter over the oil cooler so it will get the air most likely from least restrictive way, aka the hood vents Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 1, 2019 Report Share Posted August 1, 2019 Hood vents? This assumes that there will be a pressure differential. Air is being packed into the engine compartment by forward motion and the fans. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2019 2 hours ago, datzenmike said: Hood vents? This assumes that there will be a pressure differential. Air is being packed into the engine compartment by forward motion and the fans. Hood vents yes Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 1, 2019 Report Share Posted August 1, 2019 I guess to let air out? I mounted mine in front of the rad although behind would also work. I couldn't on mine, but behind would allow the oil to warm faster. Electric fans assure circulation and there is a large pressure build up on the front of the car that naturally wants through. Not sure what's happening at the front leading edge of the hood. Also you wouldn't have to cut a good hood. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2019 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: I guess to let air out? I mounted mine in front of the rad although behind would also work. I couldn't on mine, but behind would allow the oil to warm faster. Electric fans assure circulation and there is a large pressure build up on the front of the car that naturally wants through. Not sure what's happening at the front leading edge of the hood. Also you wouldn't have to cut a good hood. No, to take air in. I don't have space anywhere else in the engine bay for that cooler. And I have been cutting the car quite a lot already, so I don't think one hood is going to do any more bad. I just want to make sure that the vents look superb and fit in nicely Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2019 I also bought stainless 1/8 npt weld bungles + K type exhaust temp probes for EGT measurement. I could potentially use those with a CAN mod card with megasquirt to control the ignition timing and fuel spray per cylinder. The documentation can be found here: http://jbperf.com/sequential/index.html Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2019 I ordered the TinyIOx board and it seems like I need to build a signal amp (4x ?) for the K-type probes according to this: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual.htm#egtnotes Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2019 Started to modify the oil pump, so I cut one of the 3 oil pumps that I have to be able to use it as the spacer to accommodate the longer stator part And got the gear finally out, it involved some brutal forcing and I need to take the other gear from another pump due to some teeth braking. I have a better way to take it out next time.. So, I'm guessing almost double the capacity with this modification? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 5, 2019 Report Share Posted August 5, 2019 Well 60 PSI is 60 PSI no matter what the pump size is as it is regulated at around this amount, however if you run larger bearing clearances for cooling, the oil will bleed out faster at lower speeds than the pump can supply it and the pressure will be less. If you run a spray bar for the cam (over head cam) or turbo this is even more true. Having a larger capacity means added drain doesn't affect the pressure near as much. I think I mentioned that the high volume pump raised my hot idle pressure from 17 to 29 PSI. BTW the regulator is external so you can shim the spring on the by-pass to raise the pressure. Generally 10 PSI for every 1,000 RPM expected. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2019 9 hours ago, datzenmike said: Well 60 PSI is 60 PSI no matter what the pump size is as it is regulated at around this amount, however if you run larger bearing clearances for cooling, the oil will bleed out faster at lower speeds than the pump can supply it and the pressure will be less. If you run a spray bar for the cam (over head cam) or turbo this is even more true. Having a larger capacity means added drain doesn't affect the pressure near as much. I think I mentioned that the high volume pump raised my hot idle pressure from 17 to 29 PSI. BTW the regulator is external so you can shim the spring on the by-pass to raise the pressure. Generally 10 PSI for every 1,000 RPM expected. Yes, I'm aware of that. But as you mentioned, this mod gives me headroom for the oil jets + cooler + turbo combo at low rpms so that the engine is not starving from oil pressure. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2019 I got the hood scoops and put them into couple of different configurations: They don't look terribly bad imo 🤔 Quote Link to comment
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