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Datsun B310 turbo coupe, A15 project


Atomic

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Spent some time and made the copper gasket layout, drew a pencil sketch over the block and scanned, then transferred to CAD:

img_20200125_111626_by_atomicsickness_dd

img_20200125_111750_by_atomicsickness_dd

 

I will print it out first and test what should be modified, but i can start to ask for quotations for water jet cutting

 

Edited by Atomic
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Bought new tomei intake gaskets from blackhawkjapan, should be here in 4 days

https://www.blackhawkjapan.com/?rfsn=3717819.124d3d

 

Also ordered AISI 304 stainless wire 0.041 inch thickness for the rings. Found it with 68 meters, so that should last quite some time, lol. Cost 40 bucks

Edited by Atomic
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This is for a KA24E head which pushes water into the left side of the block past the cylinders, up into the head and right and out the intake runners and the very front of the head. L series flows from the pump into the right side of the cylinders up, and out the left side of the head, basically opposite. This is a Z22 block so even more complicated.... the coolant flows out the right side of head.

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15 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

This is for a KA24E head which pushes water into the left side of the block past the cylinders, up into the head and right and out the intake runners and the very front of the head. L series flows from the pump into the right side of the cylinders up, and out the left side of the head, basically opposite. This is a Z22 block so even more complicated.... the coolant flows out the right side of head.

Cool!

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2 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Cost $2 and a couple of hours work.... and 3 hours of thinking.

Well that certanly was cheap, I might want to make a couple of extra ones to sell. So thinking about water jet cutting

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On 1/25/2020 at 9:17 PM, datzenmike said:

I have an $80 drill press and tin snips. Fleshed out the cylinder holes with a cylindrical sanding roll and electric drill. 

It will cost 35 euros To make one water jet cut gasket. I will probably make 4 and sell the 3 of them. 

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5 hours ago, Atomic said:

I weighted the pistons and rods today. Pistons are in weight specs within +-0.3 grams and conrods are within +-0.7g. So I think I should be fine without balancing things?

 

Just an idea.... mix and match the connecting rods and piston... 

Also check the pin weight and bolts....

You might be able to make all 4 setups the same weight atleast .... 

The guy that balanced my setup had everything from the clutch to the front pulley balance to within .1 of a gram....

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8 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

 

Just an idea.... mix and match the connecting rods and piston... 

Also check the pin weight and bolts....

You might be able to make all 4 setups the same weight atleast .... 

The guy that balanced my setup had everything from the clutch to the front pulley balance to within .1 of a gram....

Yeah I can do that, but I don't think it will be that meaningful in the end. I mean, 1 ml drop of oil will add 1 gram to the system already

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Picked up the cylinder head from the machine shop today:

img_20200129_170343_by_atomicsickness_dd

img_20200129_171837_by_atomicsickness_dd

img_20200129_172226_by_atomicsickness_dd

 

He smoothed some sharp inner corners of the intake manifolds and assembled the head and put new sleeves in. Also lapped all valves and contact surfaces. I'm still looking for a motor shop that can do the o-rings to the block, 5 shops have already said that they don't have a machine to do so...

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4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Probably for the same amount you can buy the tool that does this and cut your own.

 

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Isky-Racing-Cams-100-GRM-Groove/dp/B00C2J67FE

 

Sell it when you're done.

 

 

Going to be a damn risk if i'm buying and selling as used, especially in that price range. And I'm not too much into hand drilling my own ring grooves with tight tolerances. I have seen some videos with ppl using the isky tool tho, results are varying.

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On 1/30/2020 at 1:28 AM, Atomic said:

Found a machine Shop that can do the rings. It will cost 100 euros To machine 4 of them. 

 

Ill be taking the Block To them on next monday

I was thinking about this and wondering...

When ever I hear people talk about doing the block oring  and a copper gasket no one mentions the head....

Wouldn't it make sense to oring the head too?

 

I poked around quick and found this...

 

Screenshot-20200201-032622-Chrome.jpg

 

Seems like they might want a receiver groove in the head to match the block oring..... 

I am by no means knowledgeable in this subject.... its just a thought I had and a curiosity.... 

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13 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

I was thinking about this and wondering...

When ever I hear people talk about doing the block oring  and a copper gasket no one mentions the head....

Wouldn't it make sense to oring the head too?

 

I poked around quick and found this...

 

Seems like they might want a receiver groove in the head to match the block oring..... 

I am by no means knowledgeable in this subject.... its just a thought I had and a curiosity.... 

 

I know, i think i posted this on previous page already:

http://www.engineprofessional.com/articles/EPQ216_60-62.pdf

 

The thing with the aluminum head is that if I groove it, there is a chance it might be too brittle and it will just chunk pieces out of my head under high load. So I'm good with just grooving the block atm. 

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I'm having big plans for the intake manifold upgrade and something regarding air charging. Let's see how the negotiations will go next week.

 

Aside from that, I'm really in need of another donor oil pump from any A-series (Except A10), oil pump. I have cracked two gears when trying to pull them off from the shaft as I try to build the high volume pump with fusion of A- and L series pump.

 

So if anyone has a cheap $ ass A-series oil pump laying around hit me up. The gear that goes to the camshaft has to be in shape, otherwise the condition can be whatever. 

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