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ka24 head on l20 block


scarea510

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So I've got a ka with a rod knock in my garage and an l20b aswell, and was thinking why not mash them together . Ive read through all I can find on the web about it and to me it seems the most problem with it is rwd vs fwd ka hea( luckily the u.s. has plenty of rwd ka cars) no I'm thinking after the oil gallery is blocked Icould build the lower end to a 2.3l using ka pistons via Jason grey info. Is like to use mega squirt 2 and run a ford escort edis system for the timing . Does anyone have any info on if this might not work or anything I'm missing p.s. pick n pull by me has all the z parts I need aswell plan to make a run today for them , also planing to get it running before thoughts of a turbo so no worries about compression

 

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Matt put a KA-E head on a Z24 with KA-E pistons so it had lots of displacement.

 

L20B with KA24E head............................................. 6.56 compression

The above with KA pistons and Z22 crank................ 7.608

 

Not going to work.

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I've built two 12 valve KA/L motors. A couple benefits to this motor are: you can run a dual row timing chain setup, which is stronger than the single row KA, and you can run stock 510 (or truck) components like water pump and distributor (if you're using dual carbs). If this is a swap into a 510 or truck that came with an L series motor then you will need to build an oil pan, get crafty with the motor mounts and swap bellhousings on your 5 speed trans. I don't remember exactly since it was so long ago, but I think one of them used stock KA 12 valve pistons and the other had custom JE pistons. A custom piston set these days costs around $500-$600 so get ready to shell out some coin.

 

If you aren't capable of mocking up a motor to check rod lengths, piston heights, compression ratios, etc, or if fabbing up things like the timing guides or machining the cam gears scares you, then get ready for this to be expensive.

 

One of my old customers built one of these himself and put it in his 240Z. Awesome weight reduction measure!

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For the L-20b with a 12 valve head use the Z22 t-chain and cover and guides, standard Z head gasket, It all works just fine with no issues. compression would be down, cut the head (plenty of meat) you could get to 8.5. The important thing to remember is that static compresstion might be down a little but dynamic compression will be up across the board due to the better flow of the 12 valve, thats one reason the 12 valve head has a larger chamber. Dynamic compression is often overlooked.

One thing to do is to make sure you pull the little plugs out of the end of the rocker arm shafts and clean them out, these seem to get cloged up with old oil and make for a lot of rocker arm/shaft wear.

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Matt put a KA-E head on a Z24 with KA-E pistons so it had lots of displacement.

 

L20B with KA24E head............................................. 6.56 compression

The above with KA pistons and Z22 crank................ 7.608

 

Not going to work.

 

For the L-20b with a 12 valve head use the Z22 t-chain and cover and guides, standard Z head gasket, It all works just fine with no issues. compression would be down, cut the head (plenty of meat) you could get to 8.5. The important thing to remember is that static compresstion might be down a little but dynamic compression will be up across the board due to the better flow of the 12 valve, thats one reason the 12 valve head has a larger chamber. Dynamic compression is often overlooked.

One thing to do is to make sure you pull the little plugs out of the end of the rocker arm shafts and clean them out, these seem to get cloged up with old oil and make for a lot of rocker arm/shaft wear.

 

Well if you slice 3.75mm or 0.09525" off the KA 24E head this will give you a 8.57 compression on a stock L20B block.

 

If you slice 1.75mm or 0.04445" from the KA-E head this will give 8.55 compression on an LZ 2.3 motor.

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whats to expect with getting the timing to work right after hackin that much off the head... geez

 

the LZ situation wouldnt be horrible, but youd still need an adjustable gear to get it right to even take advantage of the head in the first place...

 

I don't ever run adjustable cam gears. Once you know what to set the cam at just drill out the cam gear dowel hole and use the offset bushings from Mr Gasket. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-85/

 

It's a lot cheaper and you never have to worry about the cam gear adjustment bolts coming loose.

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