New member from Idaho with a 240z woes

[Armycmbtengr]

Hello everyone. I finally had an opportunity to get one of the cars from my childhood dreams. It's a 1971 240z. I have always been a big fan of the early z cars and just glad to finally have one.

 

The site looks great and I did not know that there was such a huge following of all early Datsuns. I have got some good info already as I'm starting to get the z back on the road.

 

The car is a July 1971 that I got from the second owner that said he had it for 30 years and it sat last registered over 10 years ago. I managed to drive it back to the house after buying a new battery. Next was a good wash and interior cleaning. I has able to drive her around a little bit but I noticed the upgraded webers were leaking quite a bit and the car obviously from sitting so long was running rough. So I added some Seafoam to the tank, oil, carbs, and through the vacuum, new plugs, wires, points, cap & rotor, fuel filter, oil change and now it just won't start......ugh.

 

I've checked for spark and I'm getting at the plugs but I don't think it's enough to turn it over. The motor turns over fine but it has me troubled. I think the carbs are the problem and I ordered the rebuild kits for them but I really would like to hear her start up and run just for a little bit.

 

Well if any of you are in the area I'd like to see if I can gain more knowledge about these great cars. I'm a huge auto enthusiast I've had several early BMW 320's and recently got into Mustangs. Had 3 for awhile but sold my 95 GT and got the 240z.

 

I hope to hear back from you guys and sorry about the long post.

[Wide14u]

hey welcome to ratsun but you need to post pics

[Armycmbtengr]

Thanks Hamhawk! Just got to get the photobucket started. I'll get some up tomorrow.

[Ranman72]

welcome to ratsun

pics tomorrow we will be waiting

[Armycmbtengr]

Ok guys I'm going to try this. I was hoping to work photobucket from my iPad where i have all my photos but I pulled these from my PC.

 

Again she is not as fancy as a lot of your rides but it's my starting point.

[Busta Nut]

Nice Z man.....super straight.....Welcome!! :thumbup:

 

 

Any plans for her???.......like....ummmm.....moar loar??

[Armycmbtengr]

Thanks. I would like to keep her clean but give it a more modern look. Rims,tires, flares, and front air dam. I've seen some really nice rides on here and these cars tastefully modded can be different than anything else on the road.

 

Right now I'm itching to get her started up again. My ignition problem has me baffled. I must have traced plug wires 10 times

 

Replaced: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, checked the coil, installed new points, condenser, and new battery. New alternator goes on tonight.

 

Diagnosis: No spark from the coil. I check the coil and have 12 volts to it at start but when I tried testing the wire from the coil to the cap by having my wife start it and touching the wire to the chassis I get nothing no spark.

 

Any ideas guys???? How can I check to see if the distributer not the problem since I don't have any spark at the plugs either.

[ISPKI]

Do you have a factory service manual for it yet? There is a link at the top of the Z forum that will help you out with that.

 

I replaced the coil in my 280 with a pertronix flamethrower and it made a world of difference in how it ran...as in...it didnt before I replaced it, and it does not that I have ahahaha.

 

Your car is nice looking. I wish I could find em like that where I live. Well, find em like for less than one of my limbs that is...

[72240z]

Hey welcome, nice z.

You say you get spark but dont believe its strong enough. I would advise you pick up one of these and check for sure. Though if you do see spark at the plug diode and the plugs are not fouled odds are its good enough to at least start.

Clean the plugs and check gap then try and start the car with starter fluid. If you even get a couple pops like its trying you know its a fuel issue. Now if with spark and fuel confirmed you still dont get anything we can look at other things like the dizzy and timing, then comp etc...

 

Rebuilding the carbs in either event is a good idea. Drop me a line if you need help rebuilding or tuning I have done it on round tops a bunch of times.

 

ISPKI you always post about 240z values being so high and how its impossible to find s30s not falling apart for less then the price of your soul lol. His car in our area is under a G, and that much because its early with vert glass. A 73 like mine can be had dirt cheap. Its not that bad here we got more z's on the east coast then they did on the west. A ton of roadster too... Everything else is where is becomes impossible or expensive.

Also were you at the ctzcc meet sat? Great day for z's, like 10+ of us nyzcc guys fun runner there through the back roads and I think there was a good 50+ z's.

[cdub42]

if it ran before you started changing chit, first thing i would suggest is checking what changed. if it sat for ten years, then you sea foamed the fuel system, id check that. you prolly knocked a buncha gunk loose and clogged your filter, or fouled out the carbs. i would pull the line at the filter and run fuel through it to see what comes out, then replace the filter, then go to the line that runs from the filter to the carbs, check that. then the carbs. sounds like they are in need of a freshening up anyways. id wager a dollar you gunked up the carbs or filter. im speaking from experience....lol i just got a Z that had been parked for 7 years a few months ago and went through he same crap. i have a thread about it called "i want a Z" there is an amazing amount of good info in there that ppl have posted up to help me get mine back on the road. love your Z BTW. super clean looking!

[Busta Nut]

A test light helps also with these old ignition systems.....one side is 12v(light should be very bright)...the other should blink while cranking.....

 

there can only be three things that are possibly bad if you have 12v and no blink:

 

 

1. Condenser

2. Points not opening

3. bad coil

 

...or a combination of the above.

[Armycmbtengr]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I have been using the web as well as the Haynes manual that to PO provided with the car. Since I have been going back and forth switching this and that after I have done a few things I think I just keep getting myself confused.

 

I had spark and now I don't anymore at the plugs. Thats really the part I want to get sorted first. As for the carbs they were really seeping fuel bad when I first ran it home. So I ordered the rebuild kits for the webers and should be here soon. My 66 mustang with the inline six was stalling really badly and finaly stopped starting few weeks ago and a shop said that the float in the carb was just flooding everything so they rebuilt the carb and it starts and runs great. I'm hoping that since the carbs are flooding fixing that will help a lot.

 

I did replace the fuel filter after the seafoam and the fuel flows well and the gas looks good but after changing the oil I noticed that it smells like fuel and just doesn't look right so I'm thinking that the flooded carbs are again the problem.

 

So I'm concentrating on the ignition while I wait for the rebuild kits. Can you helps newbie out and let me know the wiring of the coil? There are 2 one all black that comes from the distributer and a black with green stripe. Once I'm sure ihave those right I'll go back through the points and continue until I get spark at the plugs.

 

C-dub I read your thread and it was inspirational. I can't wait to get mine out on the road.

 

Thanks everyone!!!!!

[Armycmbtengr]

Oh yea. Im using a multimeter for voltage checks and for the spark at the plugs I'm using one of those testers that go between the plug fire and the spark plug that lights.

[72240z]

Did you get the fsm pdf yet like ISPKI suggested?

[Armycmbtengr]

Just pulled it up on the iPad. This is awesome. I should be moving ahead from here!!!!

 

On another note. VMy wife cleaned up all the carpets and dyed them black again. They were sun faded really bad.

 

Have to celebrate the small successes.

[Armycmbtengr]

Well it's been a great day. Last night I started rebuilding the Webers and finished them this afternoon. After a taking a lot of good advice from you guys I got my head straight with the ignition and well it started right up. I let it run for a good while and it idols nicely at 750-800 rpm. Still need to get the muffler replaced but under the hood she sounds great.

 

Got it up on stands right now waiting for the rake pads and shoes to come in and then replace the sway bar bushings and end links.

[Busta Nut]

What was the cause of the No Start?

[I'm BLUE]

Nice.

Satisfying isn't it ?

 

Make sure to check your fusebox.

I recommend carefully pulling apart the fusebox connection plugs/inspecting them for burnt wires ( they get hot )

Un-bolt the fuse-box itself and flip it over to check for sign's of melting/corrosion/repair.

Park/Tail 10-15amp is usually the one that melts ... and typical anoter circuit might do the same.

Some people attempt to re-solder ... it can be done ... I have never really had long-term luck with re-soldering though.

 

If any of these sign's existent .. ^^^

dunk it in a container of vinegar/white vinegar ..

let it sit for maybe ..hmmm a few hours at least ...

or as long as needed to get the job done.

I let things sit as long as they need and some if not harmful.

 

IF you have the money Motorsportauto.com (The Z Store) has a replacement plug and play fuse box for about $170-80 ? now.

I have installed 2 of these on 2 of my 240z's and haven't had any real issue with them. Both cars are fully functional and still driving around today.

These upgrades will still get a bit hot...

The tailight harness relay upgrade kit/system (if you can wire yourself and understand relays) is an excellent way to go.

 

A forewarning. Headlight switches burn out on these.

The wires to the Headlight switches will get pretty hot prior to this.

You can procure and try a spare one ... have one rebuilt on exchange ... or ad a universal switch to your 240z.

 

Also The rear mustache bar bushings will be rotted if they have not been replaced or higher-mileage.

These are located on the bar that holds the rear of your diff up.

You can check them or just simply replace with new Nissan Rubber ones from dealer/online.

You can also replace with poly-urethane ones ( which are harder hookup BUT transmit a significant amount of noise to the cabin )

 

While you are doing a brake shoe job .. grab (2) 14mm wrenches and tighten the half-shaft to outer hub rear bolts.

(I typically put a little blue threadlock on these .. light grade).

Grab a 12mm wrench and spin the inside half-shaft to diff bolts ... check/tighten those one by one.

Then with 12mm wrench in hand ... spin the driveshaft and check each bolt for tightness.

These bolts/nuts typically come loose on 240z's over-time or were not tightened enough from previous owner.

 

Your 71 240z will likely have year specific rear wheel cylinders. (my 71 does)

They can be pricey

I would highly suggest to bleed the entire brake system... to make them last as long as possible.

A big can of brake fluid is like $6. You will use about 1/2 maybe.

Bleeding brakes is maintenance. I do it every 1-2 years on my rigs ( every year if time ).

 

Check your trans fluid level.

Run GL-4 80w-90 "Gold Metal Safe" ( emphasis on Gold Metal Safe ... if not ... it will eat your synchro's and any other soft metals )

Some GL-5 fluids are suppose to supercede and be able to be used for GL-4 stuff , but it's not entirely the case depending on blend/manufacturer.

 

Don't let your webber carbs go dry !!!

Start and run the car at least every-month ... don't let gas sit without some type of fuel preservative.

I start and run the 240z every-week in the fall/winter if not driven

Summer/Spring I typically drive it.

 

Floor pans , Floor pan rails , Rockers , lower front fenders , Wheel wells , rear-deck sills , battery trays , firewalls , some engine bay frame rails

Are all typical places for rot. On 2 my 240z's ,,, I have seen this to be the case as well.

The 3rd was stored in-doors much of it's life.

 

Do not use Fram Oil Filters.

I personally nearly lost an engine to one.

I will never use them again for any of my stuff.

Napa , Wix , Bosch , K&N , Factory , Japanese , etc are all good ones to use.

There's lots of complaints Fram.

 

Double check all lug-nut tightness.

 

zinc content in oils ,,, if this doesn't read a bell ... read up !!! :D (important to be warned)

in Oregon in my blue 73 240z ... I use 10w30 in the winter and 15w-40 summer.

 

Upgrade Options (cheaper from other s30's and s130's mostly)

*81-83 280zx L28e Flat-top piston engines

*81-83 280zx Nissan 5spd's

*280zx 2+2 or 280zxt 240mm clutch = flywheel + pressure plate + disc + collar w/bearing + throwout arm all swapped over to 240z ( better grip on a budget ).

*280z mustache bar (to mount r200 in 240z)

*280z (3.54 diff's)

*280zx 2+2 (3.90 diff's)

*Datsun 720 front diff's (4.11 and 4.38 ?)

*Early 200sx turbo diff's.

*280zx E.I matchbox Distributor ( with e12-80 ignition module ... use a resistor ... this will allow the existing 240z tach to work in conjunction.)

*Tripple 40,45 DCOE's / Tripple Mikuni's / Tripple Delorto's

*Various Camshafts/re-grinds

*79-81 280zx 15/16 vertical tab Brake Master cylinder + 79-84 toyota 4x4 calipers (bolt-on directly) + rear-disc brake system of choice (a few out there).

*Mazda Miata seats fit very well if you need something not "blingy" and rides/feels/looks comfy/good.

* Entire 81-83 280zxt L28et + harness + ecm + turbo stuff = will all swap in without too much hassle if you like boost.

Hybridz.org has writeups on which wire goes where. Pretty straight-forward !

 

NOTE: If you ever switch out your current rear diff/mustache bar to upgrade to a 5spd...

and have the shorter driveshaft (you probably will as the r180 mustache bar locates about 2inches farther forward)

you will need a 72-73 240z or 280z driveshaft to correspond. I recommend the 240z driveshafts with replaceable u-joints.

280z drivelines will typically work as well ... but have non-replaceable u-joints ... which you can still take them to a machine shop and have them machined out/drilled out and replaced with replaceable u-joints.( just more $$$ and time spent is all )

 

 

If any of this ^^^ seems complicated , foreign , scary , or juju ... I assure you nearly all of it is not.

It's all pretty straight forward if a touch of research and time spent asking a few questions is executed :)

 

Good luck ! Love 240z's

[Armycmbtengr]

I believe the main problem was the carbs flooding but my ignition woes were associated with my trying to set the new points. The floats in the lead carb was not doing what it should. Seems funny but my 66 Mustang had the same problem with the carb a few weeks earlier and I paid a shop to do the work. So this time I told myself that I can just do my own work and get some knowledge about the car without being dependent on a mech to do the work.

 

DTP, thanks for the info. You really provided a lot of useful info that will go a long way with my ownership of this fun car. I got two huge boxes of spare parts from the PO that included a fuse box, gauges, interior pieces, body panels, and even a trans.

 

I'm going to look over that spare fuse box and give it the vinegar bath.

[Armycmbtengr]

Hey everyone! It's been some time since I first posted. A lot has been done to the Z since then. It is running great and some cosmetic improvements completed. Added some new wheels (still have the slotted mags), front spoiler, paint touch ups, and a few interior additions.

 

Well here are the pics. Let me know what you think.

[Timber]

Nice Job.  good to see more Z's out there.