School me on 620s

[freekwonder]

as soon as I can convince my wife (this should be good) I want to look into getting a 620. School me on them. I tried doing some googling but I suck at it. Looks like they all came with l16, l18, and l20s depending on the years and 5 speed didn't make it until '78? What are the common ways (no bags yet, MAYBE after a few years) to drop a few inches. Whats common things to look for that go bad on them? Whats a good price range for them? What is their towing capacity and payload? Thanks for all the info you can give me. It will be a while, but it would be nice to have a 620 to go with the 510.

[]2eDeYe]

http://www.the620.com

 

Common problems...I'd have to say head gasket, brake adjustments...

 

Do a bit of searching here and at http://www.nwde.org forums ;)

[datsunaholic]

L16: 72-73

L18: 74

L20B: 75-79

 

5 speeds were option (but rare outside of KingCabs) '77-79, though easily retrofitted to '74+, doable with a few extra parts on '72-73.

 

Payload was "rated" at just over 1500 lbs in '72-74, just under in '75+, less in KC and more in Longbeds. I'd consider 1500 to be an absolute max in anything except '72-74, where 2K isn't impossible (the older ones had much stronger springs, I've had my '74 loaded to the bed rail with gravel and I've transported half again the weight my Mom's Ranger could in drywall). Note that any attempt at lowering will reduce the load ability because it'll bottom out sooner.

 

Due to poor braking with the '72-77 (all drum) trucks I wouldn't tow more than it's weight, maybe 3K. They'll pull well over that but they won't STOP that. Maybe 4K with the '78-79.

 

'78-79 have front discs, these aren't "easily" fitted to earlier ones without either expensive custom parts or homemade adaptors if you can fabricate sue to completely different front pivot geometry (king pins vs balljoints).

 

Static lowering is pretty easy- front torsion bars drop 3" without reindex, more with. Blocks in back, spring removal (which most folks do to make them ride better). Do that, I'll take the extra leaves off your hands, more the merrier in my case.

[freekwonder]

L16: 72-73

L18: 74

L20B: 75-79

 

5 speeds were option (but rare outside of KingCabs) '77-79, though easily retrofitted to '74+, doable with a few extra parts on '72-73.

 

Payload was "rated" at just over 1500 lbs in '72-74, just under in '75+, less in KC and more in Longbeds. I'd consider 1500 to be an absolute max in anything except '72-74, where 2K isn't impossible (the older ones had much stronger springs, I've had my '74 loaded to the bed rail with gravel and I've transported half again the weight my Mom's Ranger could in drywall). Note that any attempt at lowering will reduce the load ability because it'll bottom out sooner.

 

Due to poor braking with the '72-77 (all drum) trucks I wouldn't tow more than it's weight, maybe 3K. They'll pull well over that but they won't STOP that. Maybe 4K with the '78-79.

 

'78-79 have front discs, these aren't "easily" fitted to earlier ones without either expensive custom parts or homemade adaptors if you can fabricate sue to completely different front pivot geometry (king pins vs balljoints).

 

Static lowering is pretty easy- front torsion bars drop 3" without reindex, more with. Blocks in back, spring removal (which most folks do to make them ride better). Do that, I'll take the extra leaves off your hands, more the merrier in my case.

 

Sweet thanks for all the info. Looking at brake upgrade options would be a good thing. The payload and towing seems perfect for working/pulling the 510 around. I'll have to check out the websites. This won't be anytime soon. Just trying to get my info before I start looking. I would still need to convince my wife and I need to get rid of a 4 door shell first.

[airedout]

Lowering them a few inches is easy, turn down the torsions and shorten the bump stops in the front, and run some blocks and cut down the bump stops in the back. Be sure to have a good chiropractor though, datsun trucks ride like poo (very stiff).

[lynchfourtwenty]

Lowering them a few inches is easy, turn down the torsions and shorten the bump stops in the front, and run some blocks and cut down the bump stops in the back. Be sure to have a good chiropractor though, datsun trucks ride like poo (very stiff).

 

Very true!!! you might want to get some bucket seats too.. or take soft lefts your decision.. i mash mine.. but not going left.. silly bench, i need to finish gettin the stuff for my brakes i need those discs up front!

[freekwonder]

I'll take a note on that. I'm not too worried about the ride though, thats why I have the nice Mazdaspeed6 for the comfiy stuff.

 

What about body and rust, are there any areas to really look at on the 620?

[]2eDeYe]

Rear quarters on the cab, passenger floor, windshield flange, bed seams...at least that's where I've found the most rust on my trucks...

[datzenmike]

Up here the weld seam rusts through and spreads untill there is only 3 or less sides left on the inside of the box frame.

[spiffinspudater]

I would say the bottom corners of the body pannels (ie: Front fenders and doors) Those are the only 2 places that I have rusted all the way through. Everywhere else is surface rust.

[airedout]

Check the rockers too, they might look solid, but try taking a pick to them. I bet it slides through like butter in some places :eek:

[freekwonder]

sweet thanks for all the info.