REDnGOLD Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Not very good for my 4th post. To make long story short i took home a 610 last night from Riverside. Drove it for 2hrs+ w/ stop ofcourse. Today i found leak on my garage floor & a leak on my block. Since, im green & red colorblind i couldnt identify if its coolant or oil. Is this normal for an old engine? The 610 came w/ L20B. Will i need a new head soon or can this still be fixed? Wiped it dry & started d engine just to see if it really is leaking there or just some coolant splash. i checked an hour later & it really is leaking Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 *comment about running a fram oil filter & how that mightve contributed to your problem, blah blah* a coolant leak from your block is never normal :( Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Looks like it might be a leaking frost plug??? Drain and pop it out and 'pop' another in. Look on the bright side it's harder to do the other side. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 As mike siad it look like a Freeze plug that is leaky. warm it up and ck where it leaks exactly. The freeze plug couls be made of steel and rusted out to a pin hole leak. ck you tube on frost plug removal/replacement. I had one go bad on a brand new motor. Motor was new but but sat for 10years before used. Can you believe that shit!!!!!!! Plug went bad from iinside out Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Contrary to popular opinion, the plugs are not there to prevent block damage from freezing. The plugs are there to get sand out of the engine block casting, when the block is cast. I call the plugs core plugs. Core plugs are made of steel, or brass. The block is made of cast iron. Anytime you put two different metals together, in contact with each other, and then get them wet, you make a battery, and one metal gets eaten up. That is why you need fresh antifreeze in an engine. It stops this electrolytic reaction. Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 That's good to know. It seems like that may be the only issue. I have another dumb question: It's almost always advisable to replace them (all 3) when the engine is NOT on the car or on the hoist. But how hard is it to replace them w/ the engine still intact? Do you advise this? Thanks for all the help BTW, Im the new owner of the SublimeDatsun610's old 610. I just got it Monday night from the person he sold it too Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 The manifold side would be much harder. I would fix the obvious one and fill with new anti-freeze coolant for now. Yeah, core plugs. They also do pop out sometimes when frozen but the block is always ruined. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 they make a ez to install expanstion plug( more of a temp repair) you instll it and turn a nut and it sqeezees the rubber thus making it bigger to fit in the hole look under head plug in the engine section. there will be photos http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php 40mm is the size. whay I do is drill a whole bunch of holes in it to wewaken the plus then I wack it in the corner so is rotates inside about 90degs and pull out with pliers. Some just drill a hole and install a sheet metal screw in there then pull out with pliers. then gentely instll the new plug. but sand to clean up the hole.In case of pits I dont know if sealent is needed. I put mine on dry Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 But this can be done w/ the engine still intact? i dont necessarily need to pull out the motor? Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 if by intact you mean in the engine bay... then maybe. perform a 'dry run' of removing the plugs, as in, go over the motions with the tools but dont actually do it. see if you would have enough room to fit your drill in there as well as a hammer, vise grips or whatever other tools you have. itll be harder, sure, but with such less clutter in our old bays, i think you might be able to get it done. Quote Link to comment
REDnGOLD Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 thanks guys. you are awesome Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 I use Permatex #1 on the block core plugs. I have just pushed (hammered) then into the block with a small ball pien hammer, and then grabbed the lip of the plug with a pair of vice grips, and pried then out. Clean the inside diameter of the hole, and use a socket that just fits inside the plug to drive it in straight. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 But this can be done w/ the engine still intact? Im not getting this one There is alot of room in there. Maybe remove that Fram oil filter. pull the plug then buy a BETTER filter Maybe pull the battery out if its right there in the way Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Overdue for an oil change anyway, so ditch the orange can 'o death. I'm noticing the lack of heater hoses. But make sure it's not coolant blowing back from the lower radiator hose elbow and coolant recirculation line (if still there) first. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 I dont get the heater hose removal on some cars but good CATCH Quote Link to comment
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