sdsurf Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 I have a rebuild kit for a weber carb but I am wondering if anyone has Step by Step rebuild instructions. I haven't rebuilt a carb in years and the last one was a 4 barrel Holley. Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 I have a book on webers...let me know if you want some info out of it. I would be happy to help you out. :D Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 Check out Pierce Manifolds, they have a Technical page and blown up pictures of weber, I am assuming 32/36..they are very helpful, too. Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted May 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 I have a book on webers...let me know if you want some info out of it. I would be happy to help you out. :D Like I said... I have no idea where to start or what to tear apart... so ANY help is needed.... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 I suggest: - If the throttle shafts wiggle, don't bother to rebuild it. - Do not take the throttle shafts and linkage apart - Do not take the choke butterfly and shafts apart Take the top off, blow throw all the passages with carb cleaner to ensure they are not blocked. Be careful of springs and check balls that might fall out. Check the power valve, make sure it works otherwise it runs rich all the time. Check all the vacuum diaphragms, make sure they do not leak. Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 Be sure not to over tighten the top section.I have a few that have warped tops due to this.Otherwise I would have 5 more webers ready to go. They are so simple its sick.I have run some holley and weber 32/36 with worn throttle shaft areas and they run great even if they do whistle... simply look it over and make sure to disconnect the choke to top plate linkage.Seperate the 2 parts and begin removing everyting on a clean towel or weva,..clean and reassamble with new gaskets. I could make a weber run good better than I could bake a pie that tastes good.:fu: Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 "Weber, Zenith Stromberg and SU Carburetor Manual" (Haynes Manuals) from Amazon has an okay overhaul section on the 32/36. They show used copies available. They list a few other books on Webers that may be better. Maybe someone else has an opinion on the best choice. datsunfish - Is the warped top you mention something that can be trued up on a milling machine, or do they get sprung really bad? If I ever find a U-Pull 32/36 for $15 or so, I'll grab it, but I've always been shy of the used eBay ones selling for $75-100. Also, does the throttle shaft go through the aluminum (or pot metal, I'm not sure which) body, or are there bushings in the body? Len Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 Some of the older manual choke ones I have have a plastic removeable bushing but all the newer ones go through the metal base.Not sure if the bushings were a repair or stock. I have tried to file them flat without much success.You could most likely make it happen with a milling machine.The front bolt flange on the bottom section can bow upwards too. Quote Link to comment
Guest jaimesix Posted May 26, 2008 Report Share Posted May 26, 2008 The only way to rebuild a carburetor, and to do it right, is to do it yourself. Most shops are scammers. They tell you they will rebuild your carburetor, only to change what they call a "Rebuilt kit", which is the top gasket, new needle and that is it. You can do an excellent job, and you will be surprised how easy it is. Easy , BUT requires a dilligent and dedicated endeavor on your part. First, get a manual on your carburetor. Get a book on Weber carburetors ( I have one, Pat Braden's Weber Carburetors. Go to Barnes and Noble or any large bookstore and get a book, check them out at the automobile section. ) Haynes, like it was said, has a good book on Webers. There are other Weber Carburetor book like Pat Bradens' Weber Carburetors ( HP Books ). That book will be your best friend , your teacher, your mentor.That book and your desire to succeed. Read about it to get an idea. Then proceed to disassemble it. Make a copy of the carburetor's lay out from your book , and as you take the carburetor appart following the book's instructions and illustrations, make carefull notes of what you are taking appart, note it in your diagram, and label your parts. Guys that do this all the time will need not do this, off course, but guys like you and me that do this every couple decades...we have to. It is not difficult, and you will be surprised with what kind of great work you can do. Patience and dilligence in labeling and recording your steps is mandatory, or else you will never be able to put it together. You will smile like a kid when you put it back together, knowing that your notes made the difference. Once appart, any parts that have no rubber/plastic attachments will have to go into the acid bath. When I did my carburetors for my Datsun B210, 610 and Subaru Bratt, I got myself a can of Carburetor dip. Buy industrial gloves for that matter and follow instructions. That stuff will clean all your parts and will bring your carburetor to brand new level. Like it was said before, choke plates and throatle shafts are not to be taken appart. Shafts and plates remain attached. Linkages can come appart. Take notes. If you have the time, the place, and the quest for quality work that only the best can endeavor, then do it.You can do it. Only this kind of dilligent work can clean your iddle, low and high RPM systems to new factory specs. You will be so proud of yourself you will feel like a 5 year old winning an Irish Kart contest:) Jaime._________________________________________________________ Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted May 26, 2008 Report Share Posted May 26, 2008 Like I said... I have no idea where to start or what to tear apart... so ANY help is needed.... I PMd something to you...:D Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted May 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2008 I got it!! Thank you so much;) I PMd something to you...:D Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 So today at Pull n Save, I found the old dead Weber 32/36 of my dreams. In the trunk of a 610 - yeah, I know, why in the trunk, unless something is wrong with it? I may find out at some point in the future, but for now, I'll assume it just needs a kit, and the owner went with a different carb. The throttle shafts feel snug anyway. Where is the best source for a rebuild kit? Do any of the places like Rockauto have kits, or will an online Weber specialist be the choice? Adapter plate to Datsun manifold? Someone mentioned thicker, better quality adapters. Who has these, or does it make a difference? The carb will go on an L20b in '72 510. I don't know if there is any hood clearance issue with a 32/36. I got the bottom plate for the air cleaner. It looks like it takes an oval shaped element, not the rectangular style like the air cleaners I see online. It has two studs to hold the top on, not clips like the rectangular style. Anyone familiar with this air cleaner? Element number/source? My last question I have to answer for myself. Where did I put the Weber book I mentioned in my previous post? It has to be here somewhere (unless my wife did something with it, then I'd better just buy a new one). Len Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 I have no idea where to start or what to tear apart... so ANY help is needed.... if you can put a puzzle together, than you can rebuild it yourself!!! http://www.racetep.com/weber/32_36DGV.pdf do it on a CLEAN space. i like white paper towels. lotsa spray carb cleaner and air(computer duster shit) be VERY gentle w/the floats. they may need adjusting after replacing the needle/seat. VERY simple. if you have any parts left over :eek: then your a real man for putting it back together more efficiently :lol: Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 I got the bottom plate for the air cleaner. It looks like it takes an oval shaped element, not the rectangular style like the air cleaners I see online. It has two studs to hold the top on, not clips like the rectangular style. Anyone familiar with this air cleaner? Element number/source?My last question I have to answer for myself. Where did I put the Weber book I mentioned in my previous post? It has to be here somewhere (unless my wife did something with it, then I'd better just buy a new one). Len That plate holds a K&N filter...don't know the part number, but you can look here for more info: http://www.knfilters.com/search/univ2.aspx?ID=S0002 If you need a book let me know....pm me ;) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 Len Datsunaholic sent the link of the taller adapters.http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=TRA&MfrPartNumber=2107&CategoryCode=3575Y I fond these to be the best. Has more flat gasket area to seal better But in a taller L20b in a 510 make sure to get the thin 1.75 aircleaner.otherwise it will hit the hood as for adapter I find the thin ones in the newr kits to be cheap. and crack and leak alot ezer. here is a tall adapter photo Im having idle proplem with my 510 after removing the 40mm Mikunis(i know its going backwards) but now I want better gas milage I put a 32/36DGAV and a 38DGES and ctn get both to idle so I believe IM not making a good seal. So Iam waiting for Icehouse to send a tall adapter and I have another brand new 32/36DGV 5A(manual choke on the way Quote Link to comment
jnec510 Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 im havin a buddy weld the adapter plate to a l16 intake so no worres about leakin:cool: Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 im havin a buddy weld the adapter plate to a l16 intake so no worres about leakin:cool: Why not just drill the new bolt pattern into the L16 manifold and port match it to the Weber? Does this cause a throttle linkage problem from the lack of adapter height? Jason Quote Link to comment
Guest jaimesix Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 Why not just drill the new bolt pattern into the L16 manifold and port match it to the Weber? Does this cause a throttle linkage problem from the lack of adapter height? Jason The Weber carburetor bottom is much wider than the manifold carburetor seat, only through an adaptor sandwiched in between the Weber and the manifold could the Weber Downdraught work on the Datsun L series car. Another solution would be a Cannon downdraught manifold made specially for L series to Weber Downdraught carburetors. CANON manifold to Weber Downdraught Quote Link to comment
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