b3y0ndd34th Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 From my radiator detonation, it seems my head gasket needs to be replaced. While tearing down the motor and prepping it for install, I checked the head, it is badly warped. I have a shop in town that still mills them, and I'm going to chekc prices in the morning but I'm wondering how much a Ratsuner would charge for a good used head to fit my L20B with round port exhaust. thanks in advance for all the money I keep throwing in this L20 I should just do a motor swap :( Link to comment
RedBanner Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 I have one without cam or towers, pm me if rhats sound ok. Link to comment
Jayden71 Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 I have a complete w58 head sittin on the bench 1 Link to comment
karnutz Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 I've got one collecting dust if helps. Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 Thanks I'll be sending pm's after I figure out how much milling will cost! Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 Or you could step up to a different head? I have a peanut A87 I'm about to put up for sale. 1 Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 From my radiator detonation, it seems my head gasket needs to be replaced. While tearing down the motor and prepping it for install, I checked the head, it is badly warped. I have a shop in town that still mills them, and I'm going to chekc prices in the morning but I'm wondering how much a Ratsuner would charge for a good used head to fit my L20B with round port exhaust. thanks in advance for all the money I keep throwing in this L20 I should just do a motor swap :( You know it works so mill it and run with it. All other heads are unknown until they are on and running. The A87 will work but you really should get a square exhaust port manifold to match it, yours is round. The problem with this is yours is a single outlet to the down pipe. The square port is a two pipe to a two pipe down pipe. (hope that make sense) The peanut head will maybe ping a bit because of the increased compression. 1 Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 Thanks mike, I understood perfectly. I will take your recommendation and have mine milled, but I may be back in a couple days or so... :) Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 only costed $25 to have it machined, I thought that was cheap so I had it done. Working on putting everything back on the car, having a hell of a time with the timing sprocket back on the cam with the chain :(. Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Did you lock the chain prior to taking head off? Might need a new tensioner now as well as you need to take the front cover off. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Did you lock the chain prior ti taking head off? Oh no..... Noob mistake. Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Well the guide I was using told me to make a wooden wedge and wedge it in the chain to keep it from falling into the motor, I did but it said nothing about the tensioner, I'm going to hope that this helps hold the tensioner in place. That doesn't mean that I knew what I was doing, or that it went well lol. Is there a front plate that comes off? How does one go about checking and replacing the timing tensioner :( I have the water pump out, I was really hoping to not have to fuck with the crank pulley, as I don't have a socket big enough, funds are low and I'm cutting into rent money now, and I don't have a puller to remove the pulley -.- I see no way to access timing threw any of this. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Try this. Slip the cam sprocket on as far as you can and try to get the retaining bolt to start. Tighten carefully and this may pull the sprocket up onto the cam. Don't forget that the tiny metal pin sticking out of the cam has to go in the back of the sprocket. I did this once and it worked. 1 Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 I can keep trying in a few hours, I'm at work now, I guess I should open a help thread instead lol. I've been trying this method, and even stupidly, removed the cam, attached the sprocket, tried to get the towers in place, I got scared and quit, I went back to tryin to get the bolt in. I've tried it without the front lobe for the fuel pump on, just to try to get the sprocket on the nub and holding there I had intentions of getting it off and putting the lobe back on but I was unsuccessful in getting it to start, if I stare at it, and pull the chain up with the sprocket inside, lined up to my marks, I am able to see just over half of the hole in the can at the top of the timing sprocket, is this enough space? Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Too much wiggling of the chain will for sure tear the spring in the tensioner apart. My suggestion... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-Tej0297wk Undo all that you have. Remove crank pulley. Remove front cover. (Don't forget the bolt hidden underneath the oil pump. Little bastard!) Inspect spring on tensioner. See if it will survive more abuse. Install chain and head properly. Reinstall cover and crank pulley. As for the crank bolt-borrow a socket from a parts house that loans tools. Or, you can buy a full set of sockets from Harbor Freight for under $20. I want to say 27mm will be the magic number? 1 Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Ugh, k, I'll borrow a puller and socket, chain and sprockets look new, from what I can tell from the top the chain doesn't have any slap or slop, I can tell the timing has been done recently, all the bolts were only finger tight :( We don't have a harbor freight here, only autozone, oreilly, and napa, if I want to do some traveling I can find an advanced auto, but I dispisethem more than autozone, I only go to az because the people that work there know my family and make sure I get what I need, including info. Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Don't really need a puller. Couple light tugs with a prybar, and that pulley will fall right off. Autozone should have the socket you need. Just remember, It's only nuts and bolts. Couple hours, and you should be golden. 1 Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Sweetness, I'll get the socket, order a tensioner and give it a whirl, all the gaskets are included in my head kit anyway Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 okay one more stupid question, what do I do to keep this damn pulley stationary so I can break this bolt loose, No chain tension and no belts = movement, lots of it. Will I still be able to do the starter trick? Can I leave my wedge in? do I leave the sprocket in the timing area or should I keep it some place safe? This is going to affect my timing marks, I'll have to set TDC again and go from them most likely :( Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 watch this I alwasy break the crank bolt loose incase I drop a tensioner and have to remove the front cover( head still on) amazon has the L series timming wedges for sale. 10$ its soft you can ram it down the front cover and feel the tensioer get pushed in. also Silver Seal(enter in datsun in blank) sells the cam tower shims. If you going to get the head straighten they need to cut the bottom and the top if warped really bad. To ck for bad the cam will be hard to take out or go in then you know its warped on top also and then they/you need to remove the cam towers/rocker arms ect so the machine shop can do this and place everything back in the same spot. depends how much they mill will determine if you need the cam tower shims. 1 Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Thanks for the help everyone, I used the starter to break the bolt loose, it's about all the juice that was left in the battery to turn it a couple times. I got the timing put back in. Tensioner was completely extended. I removed it, cleaned it, put her back in, same with the dampers. Timing chain seems to be great, according to the video, with my motor ar tdc. I still need to put the intake, exhaust, and valve cover back on, I'm off tomorrow so it's datsun day. I get to wrap this up :) 1 Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Motor = Put back together Car = not firing :( Made help thread --> http://community.ratsun.net/topic/45864-i-cant-get-fire-at-coil/ Link to comment
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