Sohc ka ---->79 210

[ggzilla]

bravo!

[drowning in broken cars]

So as I was putting the starter on to put the motor in for the final time I realized that the starter doesnt clear my passenger engine mount.

It looks like Il have to cut it some so that the starter can work haha. awesome.

[RedBanner]

Your doing great man, this is going to be fn awsome!! :cool:

[drowning in broken cars]

Finally got a bunch more done on the swap. did my clutch and got that back together, ran plastic fuel lines, cut out my mount on the passenger side to clear the starter, put the motor back in and mounted my civic radiator and figured out my hoses. lower s13 sohc hose and a flexible universal upper hose worked well.

Also Il throw this in just for fun, though I did it a while ago, my z wheel and seat:

[79210]

Did you have problems clearing the sway bar or the trans tunnel??

[ggzilla]

Shouldn't ... the 210 was fitted with 71-series transmission from the factory. Same tunnel for all 210s. Just the shifter location is further back than stock.

[drowning in broken cars]

Swaybar hit the pan, and I had to cut the shifter hole out alot and the shifter housing is actually up in the car some to get the motor as near to level in the bay as I could. it may be touching the tunnel in a couple spots.

[drowning in broken cars]

Got my stock datsun harness stripped back and simplified, and finally got the ka engine harness stripped back and cleanly deleted of ac, auto tranny wiring, the wires to dash, and the old fuse panel in the bay. Im not taping it back up till I know it runs though haha.

Also, heres a little teaser pic of whats to come, after I break it in n/a of course.

[Tristin]

Question: If youre going with the Civic radiator, why not mount it all the way to the opposite side of your exhaust manifold? It would keep temps down a lot easier. Thats what I did in my Evo:

 

[drowning in broken cars]

Its kinda as far away from the exhaust as it can be and still have the end tanks easy to route hoses to coolant outlet and inlet. I even cut out some of the front radiator support wall so I could move it to the left more. gonna make a blockoff plate for the rest of the opening in the front until I go turbo. Nice evo by the way.

[drowning in broken cars]

Well, she fired up for the first time, runs like crap though as I started it with bigger injectors til the stock injector o rings come in. starts every time though. hoping to get er all buttoned up soon and maybe make a vid for you guys =)

[mrmark]

sweet! are you changing the rear end? mine's welded but i'm still not sure how long the axles would last with the extra torque of the KA

[drowning in broken cars]

I had the hardest time finding anything for a rear end that was drop in, even looking a couple states away in mass, so Im gonna run the stock diff for now with 13s and leave it open. but im hopefully gonna score a mustang 8.8 from a buddy of mine eventually. until then its one tire smokeshows haha.

 

So yours is welded? how long has it lasted being welded and how much have you beat it? Im interested in knowing how long it would last, I think ka power wouldnt make a difference unless I was launching it. sliding around theres way less load on it than gripping.

[flatcat19]

Early 200sx rear.

Bolt in. Discs.

[mrmark]

trying to find a 200sx rear is tough

[drowning in broken cars]

yea I looked for one of those for a long time.... closest junkyards listing ones were in mass. one had 4 listed and I called em and they scrapped em all several months before. called all around and nothing. then a yard in maine said they could ship me in one for 100 bucks, called em back and they had misquoted me and told me 400$. very hard to find up around here, datsuns in maine are few and far between junkyard or not. so im going with stock rearend and getting a ford rear to fab up.

[Duke_CityR]

Datsuns are quite plentiful here in the northwest, but it still took me 4 years to find my 81 200sx rearend. At least it came with a rear swaybar, which I was also looking for. I, also, have a single cam KA sitting in my garage waiting to be swapped in. still looking for a stumpy tranny to match up to it though. keep up the good work. I'm loving the read.

[drowning in broken cars]

Yea theyre pretty rare up around these parts haha. Took it for the first drive on the road and it pulls pretty good. definitely torquey. also started breaking up after a couple pulls which I attribute to the alt not charging or the battery not taking a charge, which is next on my list to figure out.

Driveshaft seems to have come out good. doesnt seem to shake or vibrate. Im hoping to get the charging system all set by the weekend and Il make a vid to throw up here.

[drowning in broken cars]

So im still having a breakup problem under load, and Ive tried all the obvious things, different coil, distributor, etc. one question I had was, does anyone know the purpose of the small resistor near the coil thats labeled in the wiring diags as condenser? there were 2 resistors, one just had the grn/blk coil signal going into it and then out to gauge cluster and a/t computer. (harness was from an auto) I got rid of this and got my aftermarket tach signal from here.

the other resistor type thing labeled condenser was tee'd into the black/red power to the coil until I cut it back in harness simplification. So my question is, what is this condenser thing? car ran fine with it cut but now its breaking up. the only wires running to it are a splice into the power to the coil and a ground that runs back into the harness to tee back in to other grounds.....

[Duke_CityR]

I don't understand, "break up" problem. Is the car surging? Is the power cutting out under heavy acceleration/turning? Are you still running the stock fuel tank? If so, it doesn't have the required baffles inside the tank to keep a steady flow of fuel going up to the motor. Could this be your problem or am I not understanding the problem?

[drowning in broken cars]

breaking up as in misfiring. in other words if you mash the pedal to accelerate it just misfires hard and doesnt accelerate. code thrown is a common one for this same symptom, 21, ignition coil signal missing. It isnt gas sloshing I know this for fact. tank slosh doesnt throw codes. starts and runs fine just doesnt want to pull. as I said I tried a couple different coils and a dizzy with no luck.

I was wondering about the condenser resistor thing by the coil as I wasnt sure its purpose but I spliced it back in as the wiring diags show and no difference. I guess Im just gonna have to start poking wires and see where the problem is.

[drowning in broken cars]

Ok so a little update here, Im pulling out my hair over this crap. still code 21, ignition signal primary circuit missing.

Ive tried:

4 or 5 power transistors, which are the ignitors next to the coil which is usually what causes the code. a couple were junkyard ones, a couple were off of a friends running 240.

they may seem to fix it for a short drive, but sooner or later they run like crap again but work fine on another car. they also all checked out good with multimeter. visually checked the wiring to the power transistor, ohmed it all out, checked grounds with power probe, added grounds, double checked the grounds between ecu and power transistor, tried different distributor, etc.

tried all the diagnoses steps on http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1989/1989.pdf and oh yea tried different ecu.

any ideas welcome.

[drowning in broken cars]

Fixed the miss. after all the different things I tried, it was missing because the porcelain on 2 of the plugs had hairline cracks that only arcd under load......

one thing that threw me off was that I also had a code 21 which I fixed by replacing one of the electronics or wiring that couldnt be caused by a plug as it pertains to coil signal and not actual spark. fixed the code and still missed so it was a combination of things.

So dont be like me and overlook the simplest things haha. But anyway car runs and pulls pretty good. Il try to make a burnout vid or something soon.

[drowning in broken cars]

So I was trying to figure out my compression ratio as I have dual cam forged pistons in a sohc block... and if the comp ratio calc is correct I actually have somewhere between 6.9 and low 7s comp ratio which is really low. that sound right? Car runs and pulls great, Im also running 10 deg more ignition timing at idle but I think I can get away with that haha. will handle much boost methinks.

[Kisor]

Yea, a little too low actually. No more benefits for anything below prob 8.2-8.5. Why the Dohc in the sohc?