Silvester Posted June 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 The tight side guide itself wasn't loose, but rather the chain was. There was too much play for being the TIGHT side. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 No matter how tight he chain is you will always be able to move it slightly. Peraps a picture of what you mean by 'loose'. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 the tight side chain CANT be loose if you turned the crank up to TDC keeping the chain tight as you rotate the crank clockwise. It only goes loose if you turned the crank Counter clock wise putting slack on that side. If you keep the chain tight on the right side then you look to see how much slop is on the slack side. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 Its all in pieces and i'm waiting for the new timing set to get here. The moment of truth is when i put it all back together. Ill keep you updated with progress and questions. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 Well of course a new chain will fix it. But perhaps adjusting it correctly would too without buying a new chain.... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 photos of the slack side guide and the tensioner would help. Persoanlly if the motor lines up on the cam timmingmarks@TDC I would have called it good. Your top sproket doesnt look sharp. I would call that good. The lower sprocket dont really wear out that I have seen as the circle is smaller. Most times a tensioner and slack side guide is al that is needed. ALSO!!!!! when you put this together try to put soem RTV on the head gaskets and in the corner to help seal it. Most time they really start leaking 1 Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Okay! Finally got around to installing my timing kit today! Im hoping this fixes the problem. Here are some pictures of what i have. In the top end, the sprocket notch and cam notch line up perfectly and the chain is on dimple #2. On the bottom end, Chain does not line up with the sprocket dimple. Is it normal to be 1 or 2 teeth off? I found TDC with a 1980 l20b pulley. Im guessing that i have to turn the crank a bit so that the golden link is 2 teeth above the dimple? Can someone help here please? Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Genuine Beck/Arnley chain and sproket Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 I'm concerned that the mystery L20B pulley may have a different placement for the TDC mark on it than your motor. Count the links. 44 for an L20B but only 42 for the L16/18. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Update: I was able to line up: Cam sprocket notch with cam notch. #2 notch on Cam sprocket notch with gold link. Crank sprocket notch with Gold link. If i am correct, this motor is timed correctly. Please correct me if i'm wrong. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Can't see where the V notch is in relation to the cam thrust plate etch mark. The V has to be directly below or slightly to the tight to be timed. If it isn't you must use the next highest number . Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 The V is dead on the notch. Sorry for the bad picture Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Then GTG!!! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 my vid dont explain it good enough??????? http://vimeo.com/19077890 looks like you got it tighten it up to like 90-100 pounds crank and sprocket 1 Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Well! Put it all back together today. Starts and runs fine but the clank is still there!! Very frustrating. I have about 15 hours in it and didn't solve the problem... It must be rooted in the head somewhere, but what I don't understand is that the valve lash is all correct! Could this be a bow in the camshaft? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 The front thermostat housing bolt goes through the head and into the timing chain area by the cam sprocket. If the wrong length and too long, the chain may hit against it. A bent cam or head won't clank. Take the fan belt off and start it up and rev a few times? If it goes away it's water pump or alternator. Does it 'clank' steady? revs with the motor? Or is it random? Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 This is exactly the sound, and hasn't changed a bit... Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 I also put a brand new water pump on, as the old was very eroded. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Sounds like a valve lash not set. Should be 0.010" hot intake and 0.012" hot exhaust. Set the idle low as possible and run with the valve cover off. Get a wooden hammer handle or something similar. Set it on top of each rocker arm where it meets the valve spring and push down firmly. Yes it will take some practice to get it on and hold it there but with downward pressure you will be removing the lash at this point. The clicking is the rocker arm taking up the lash and hitting the lash pad. When it suddenly gets quiet... this is the one. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted October 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Ill have to give this a shot. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Finally found it! Thanks to my friend, a seasoned Porsche Tech, we were able to trace the problem. Linked is a video. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 doesn't work for me. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 you don't think that's the problem? I ran it without the valve cover and pressed a hammer down on each arm to no avail. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 It has to be the problem... With 150psi in all 4 cylinders, i don't know what else it can be. I performed a valve adjustment 3 times just to be sure. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I think Datzenmike was saying the vid didnt work for him Thats preety good., I think that would be the proplem myself. Never really seen this before. or if it reaaly could get loose like that. I learned soemthing new Quote Link to comment
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