banzai510(hainz) Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Do a quick ck to make sure the alternator is not hitting the idler arm(if a bigger alt was installed by chance) I would look at the timming chain slack side guide and see if the tensioner is popped cockeyed which will make more of a grinding sound as the tensioer wears out the surface usually down to the metal. Also I seen where one bolt of the slack side guide was off and the tensioner would rattle around. On tite side make sure you dont have a too long of a bolt that pushes the tight side tensioner in to the chain. YThis is very unlikely but is s quick looksee. I never had a clutch fan but highly dought thats it either. I would persoanlly try to look at the chain down in the fron cover(with flashlight) and take the pulley and try to see if anything whats going on and try to stress seomthing out. Your fuel pump has the spacer ans is new looking and dont think that would be it also. Nice truck you got there. I love the orange and should buff out pretty good. Engine bay looks good also Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Stock alternator and clearance is great. Ill start to inspect the timing chain Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 soemtime getting a big screw driver in there and push the slack side guide around and see if you see soemthing obvious. look way down and see what the tensioer looks like ,if by chance it over extended. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I noticed this was funny. It look like the timing is off to me? Motor is rotated TDC. What do you think Hainz? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Looks about right. when you dial it up to TDC Zero on crank then youll look at the V on the cam sprocket and see if it lines up with the dash on the back plate. take a photo thru the inspection hole of the cam sproket. But make sure you dial up to TDC keeping the chain tight. Never go past and try to turn it back as it induces slack on the the back side. if you wen past Zero then try to rotate the crank back then best to turn back about a inch then dial it back to TDC keeping the chain tight. the brite links are only used on assemble when firts putting the chain on. It will take a few turns to get it back on the correct spot again but its not really needed. More to make it idiot proof if anything. One can always dial it to TDC and ck the cam sprocket to figure out if one is adv or off a tooth. watch the vid I sent its EZ. go n by your photo I dont see anything obvious that is bad. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 If you think this is tmmed OK. Most L20 the timming will be set to #2. Youll see a 2 in the 2 oclock position of the cam sproket. If its on 3 then soemone advanced it. No big deal. looking at the sprocket it the teeth dont look sharp. I bet you could just get away with a slack side guide and a tensioner and call the timming kit good. But for now you need to find the rattle. push on the slack side guide ad ck out the tensioer at booton in front cover Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 Instead of rotating it from the crank i decided to rotate it from the Cam this time and this is what I found: Is it only doing that because i'm rotating it by the cam gear? or is does that look wrong, period? Looks to be like a timing cam gear/chain. Its 170k miles on stock gear! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 If you turn the cam sprocket you will move all the chain slack over to the left (tension) side. If checking the cam timing you have to turn the crank. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 If you turn the cam sprocket you will move all the chain slack over to the left (tension) side. If checking the cam timing you have to turn the crank. I see what you mean here. Im no longer looking for timing. Determined its timed correctly but now looking for the clatter sound, trying to duplicate it. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 Well the engine will be pulling down on the chain on the left (driver's) side against resistance from the valve springs. The chain will always be tight on this side. The slack is all on the right side. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 The tensioner takes up a bit of slack, but it may not be adjusted correctly. Did you even check what Hainz said about the tensioner? You can retension it and it might be fine. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 Im pulling apart the oil pan, distributor and oil pump today so can remove the timing cover and see whats going on. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 The ticking sounds regular like a valve or fuel pump or something else. I would expect a chain to be random. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 Hate to find out its not the chain set up. You did ck all the rockers arms ect for any proplems? I couldnt get the vid to work so I couldnt hear it. maybe a compression ck would be chance ck for a valse seat popping around but Im realyy winging it from hear. I assume you have good power and its just noisey. I oosen the oil pan just enought to get the pan down so yourll have room to get the front cover out and hopefull not ruin the oil pan gasket. If you do ruin it you can spile another section of a oil pan gasket and put it in. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 I guess we'll have to see.... I dropped the oil pan and pulled the front cover off last night. IM waiting for my timing chain kit. I'm going to the PandP to get a l20b crank pulley. someone ground this one down. If anything, pulling this thing apart is giving me experience so i wont be too upset over it if it doesn't fix it. I also found out that the water pump is cavitated and rusted like a mofo even though its new. The engine has sufficient power its just the noise... I should have done a compression check ;/ Ill keep you guys updated Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 This is what i've got. How do i get that worm gear from behind the crank pulley? Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 Quick question. Why when i try to order a water pump they all come with fan clutches? There is no fan clutch when i removed mine... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 Your truck would have come with a clutch fan. Likely it was changed. Try an ealier '73 The worm gear just slides forward an off the crankshaft. It and the crank sprocket are held in place with woodruf keys. Gently pry forward with a screwdriver. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 That's very interesting... Could that be an answer to my problem? Should i install a fan clutch assy and water pump back on it? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 You can run ether kind. If you get a clutch fan you will also have to find the plastic blade fan for it too. If replacing the pump fixes the sound then it's just that the pump was bad not the type of pump used. Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 It's not the pump... I'm convinced it has to be coming from the timing.... Chain slap, off timing, etc Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 PUMP? I assume you looked at this first way before pulling the front cover off. as for the worm gear I so no ned to pull it off. You see anything loose of obvious? How the slack side guide and the tensioner look? was that airpump hooked up? maybe soemthing there is loose? Quote Link to comment
Silvester Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 Water pump** i found out there is an l16/18 pump and fan instead of the norm. The tight side was actually pretty loose... I was able to wiggle it 1/4" back and forth. Air pump was all bolted down and in tact and belt driven. Yes i did look through the oil pump also. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 Excellent. You found the problem The tight side was actually pretty loose... I was able to wiggle it 1/4" back and forth. Set the tensioner correctly and it will be quiet. When installing they were supposed to rotate clockwise, then move the tensioner before bolting it tight. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 your saying the TIGHT SIDE GUIDE was wiggling? So the 10mm head bolts were loose? O would have thought you could have cked this before pulling the front cover unless the lower bolt was the one that was loose. Quote Link to comment
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