Zeusimo Posted July 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 Experimental Engineering Idler Arm Tighter Steering Abit Louder Than Stock Tho.. Quote Link to comment
O.D.D. Posted July 31, 2013 Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 Man - you are an overhaulin' restoration MACHINE! Sooo many solid steps, and all in a great direction... Quote Link to comment
Dattokai Posted July 31, 2013 Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 I'm barely seeing this thread now. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 A Friend Sent Me This 4 Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 So About A Week Ago I Got In My Car To Go To Work I Turn The IGN And Nothing... All The Lights Would Work Until I Try To Start Not Even A Click When I Got Home I Charged My Battery (Which Wasn't Dead...But I Thought It Was) Nothing.... Anyways My Wiring Was Done Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 All Of My Positive Power Connections Were Melted So I Started To Remove The Entire Front Harness 1 Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 I Deleted Aton Of Unused Wiring And Upgraded All Power Connections From 14AWG To 10AWG The Biggest Wire I Found On The Harness Was A 10AWG Alternator Wire That Powered The Entire Car Redid Straight To Battery With A 6AWG 1 Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Anyways Car Starts Wayy Faster Than It Ever Did Car Charges At 14V Now Instead Of 12.5V Next I Will Remove The Dash Again To Completely Clean Up The Inside Hookup A Few Relays And Maybe Even A Push Start :) Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Rabbit/ZX Inserts For Moar Loar Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Believe It Or Not This Was My Best Tire So I Installed 195/55/15 BFG G-Force Comp 2's Next On My List Tie Rods, Balljoints, NCRCAs, LCA Bushings, Steering Box Brace, Steering Coupler And Camber Plates So I Can Get An Alignment ASAP Quote Link to comment
O.D.D. Posted September 21, 2013 Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 Just a Small bit of info... which you may already know, but just in case.... It is possible to make adjustable front end geometry by lopping the ends off the control arms and welding in threaded heim joints. You can trim back the shoulder of the T/C rods and use washers to set caster as desired. Getting rid of the control arm rubber gives great feel, but a little more vibration at the steering wheel. (the heim joints also let you adjust front track width if you want) I only mention this because you are clearly taking the time to make a lot of solid improvements, and you are already halfway down the path I went when setting up my 510 for Auto-x...(280zx struts, 240 inserts, and coilovers etc) not gonna take my 710 wagon that far, but I have to figure out something for getting it lowered. Your page gave me some clues about wagon height, etc after swapping various bits... so I figured I would try to contribute something of value in return. Any plans to use Aluminum Z drums out back as well? Quote Link to comment
O.D.D. Posted September 21, 2013 Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 Lol.... There is a perfect pic of what I am talking about regarding control arms on Indy's page... See how one control arm is heim jointed, and the other not.... couldnt ask for a better example of before and after. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted September 21, 2013 Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 Undoing a bunch of nightmarish, half-assed wiring from the PO in my wagon, too. Good on you, I'm looking forward to having mine done. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 All My Headlights Were Twisted Together Using Speaker Wire I Swear Fixing PO's Wiring Got Me So Madd I Found A Rear End With Only 80,000 Miles On It Going To Clean It Up And Swap It Over Next Weekend I Know What You Are Talking About With The Joints But This Is Just My Daily Driver I Already Bought Polyurethane LCA Bushings Changing Them Sucks Tho I Have To Take Them To A Machine Shop Which Means I'm Out A Car For 2 Days I'm Also Considering Some Hushmat It's Sooo Loud Inside My Car Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Here It Is Already Low When Sky High Also Noticed My Caliper Is Starting To Get Wayyy To Close To The Tie Rod Have To Get NCRCA's Before The Brake Pads Wear Down Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Also Noticed My Caliper Is Starting To Get Wayyy To Close To The Tie Rod Have To Get NCRCA's Before The Brake Pads Wear Down Or, the easier/cheaper fix would be to just pop your struts off and swap them side to side. B) 1 Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 I Hate Bleeding Brakes Plus It Spaces The Suspension Out What I Lost When I Swapped Struts Right..? 280ZX Smaller Track With? Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 how would it do any of that? its the same strut and mounts the same just switching sides so the calaper is towards the front vs towards the back Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 I Don't See How That Would Work Unless I Got Longer Brake Lines I Need To Address Bumpsteer Anyways Here IsThe Rear End I Picked Up Getting Brakes, Seals, Fluid.. And Should Be Good As New Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted September 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 Here It Is With The Coilovers Finally Sorted Might Go Half Inch Lower But I Need To Get A Fender Roller 4 Quote Link to comment
Bentaxlebob Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 Cool. Got camber plates ? If so, try some less camber ( - ) and see. Might need no rolling at least for now. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 I Don't See How That Would Work Unless I Got Longer Brake Lines Don't your factory hardlines come out about 1" back from being in line with the strut? If so, it's just a matter of running them a different way. Nothing to change. All you have to do is rebleed the brakes. If for some reason your hoses are really short, I can see it being a problem, though... If you don't want to, that's cool. Just trying to offer a $0 option to your issue. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 I Have Come To The Conclution That The Rear Floor Needs To Be Raised 2" Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 710 Brake Booster ;) Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted October 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2013 No Won't Work Quote Link to comment
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