New IR alt not charging

[strang3majik]

Hey guys...

 

I bought a new alternator for a 72 510 with a/c from Rock Auto (supposedly 50amp) and it arrived as an internally regulated alternator.

 

So...I installed it and jumped the wires where the original regulator went as per what I read on the dime quarterly...and nothing. Belt tension is good, and revving it just makes the voltage drop more.

 

Any ideas?

 

Now, my charge light inside does not light up (nor do any of my gauges), so, maybe that has something to do with it? Is that light part of the charging system?

 

And, I was testing the alternator right at the positive post on the back...getting a highest of 12.5 volts with a fully charged battery.

[datzenmike]

Yes the red charge warning lamp must be working, but unlikely it blew at the same time. Probably a fuse, check/replace. 12.5 is simply the battery voltage.

[thisismatt]

Did you connect the sense terminal?

[banzai510(hainz)]

pull it out and have it cked with a load. could be bad from factory.

 

you have both jumpers out in right?

 

 

put old one back in.

[strang3majik]

I never had the old one...thats why I got the new one.

 

But, I do not have any gauges/lights inside. I was never able to figure it out...only the speedo and the gauge lights (when I turn the headlight on), work. But, the parking brake, charge light, and oil light do not work, nor do the fuel gauge and temp gauge. So, it could be something with that? Is there a way I can bypass the light and hook it up direct to test it?

 

And, I have the ground, white/red, then the plug, and I jumped the white/red and black/white wires and the other two I was supposed to jump at the stock regulator plug.

 

So, idk...if theres a way to bypass the light and test it that way, please let me know...I'll probably try that first.

[banzai510(hainz)]

you ck the ignition fuse?????????? clean and or replce it

 

the gauge instrumentation light come on when you pull the light switch.

 

the oil.ignition come on when key is switched to ON. so ck that circut. If this not comes ON then the altanator doesnt make the magnetic field

[strang3majik]

you ck the ignition fuse?????????? clean and or replce it

 

the gauge instrumentation light come on when you pull the light switch.

 

the oil.ignition come on when key is switched to ON. so ck that circut. If this not comes ON then the altanator doesnt make the magnetic field

 

 

Ok, I'll check all the fuses...they all had continuity when I put it together though.

 

Is there a wire I can jump so it will make the magnetic field?

 

And, those lights do not come on...really, nothing happens when the key is on except for power sent to the coil.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I had no charging and no ignition light on my 521. Notice my battery wasnt charging.using my cig lighter alternator checker.

fuse was popped. 2 wires were feed by this fuse car would still run but not charge up. I separated them so I know which wire was popping the fuse. Noted the color and traced it to the instrument panel. I ck the panel out then reseated the connector.I believe this was a sense line to the alternator.

So when I put the connector back on it must have made better contack or it was FM(fucking magic)

FIXED!!!!!!!!

 

I had swapped a another alternator also which ruled this out.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I had no charging and no ignition light on my 521. Notice my battery wasnt charging.using my cig lighter alternator checker.

fuse was popped. 2 wires were feed by this fuse car would still run but not charge up. I separated them so I know which wire was popping the fuse. Noted the color and traced it to the instrument panel. I ck the panel out then reseated the connector.I believe this was a sense line to the alternator.

So when I put the connector back on it must have made better contack or it was FM(fucking magic)

FIXED!!!!!!!!

 

I had swapped a another alternator also which ruled this out.

 

I dont know what wire to jumper

[strang3majik]

well...I checked the fuses...they're all good :/ Also, I just put the cluster in and cleaned all the terminals and made sure it made connection.

 

When I did put it together, there was a wire behind the radio (green or blue with a red stripe) that when I put power to it, my charge light and my fuel gauge worked...though with the key on. This wire was part of the stock radio plug (I no longer have the stock radio), and I'm wondering if that might have something to do with it...though every wiring diagram I look at, that wire goes the headlights or wipers...which work.

 

But...I'm at a loss...lol

[banzai510(hainz)]

The radio plug should have 12volts when Key ON .I would think "accesories" also myself but cant remember.

 

A)Now your saying you put 12volts on this Radio wire? and then everything started to look good on dash.?????

 

If you dont have 12volts on the radio wire then this has to be a rpeolm in that circut and find a common factor there.

 

I myself would ck the wires and if they dont look molested and seem to be stock then it has to be a corrossion issue.

I would also look at the instrument panel and and ck the traces visually and with a OHM meter.

 

Now lest go back to item A)

If you put 12volts on thee radio wire all you did is bypass the fuse and feed water ever is on that side of the circut that is in parallel(I think)

 

I would get a test light and ck the fuse box again. this time put the key on and see if you have 12volt (light up) on the other side of fuse box and look the the radio wire and see if you can find this 12volts or where your loosing it.

 

 

also if you got a battery going dead all the time it be good to tell me now.

[DanielC]

This is how I hooked up the two small terminals to test the alternator.

 

 

The picture is a little hard to see what wire goes where.

To test your IR alternator, hook it up like this.

1. Bolt the alternator on the engine. Tighten the belt.

2. Hook up a wire from the big positive terminal on the alternator to the positive battery post.

3. Hook up a wire from the frame of the alternator to the negative battery post.

4. Connect a test light to the positive battery terminal. Hook the other end of the test light to the "L" terminal on the alternator. The light should come on now.

5. Hook up a wire from the "S" terminal on the alternator to the positive battery terminal.

6. Put a voltmeter on the battery terminals. The volt meter will read about 12."something" volts.

7. Start the engine. The test light should go off. The volt meter should read about 14."something" volts.

 

 

I used a piece of red and black paired wire. The black wire in the pair goes to the "L" terminal, (it supplies a ground) and red wire goes to the "S" terminal. You can see then paired wires in between the battery and number three spark plug. The red wire, and test lead goes to the positive battery terminal. The test light ground clip also goes the the positive battery terminal. The probe of the test light is hooked up to the black wire, going to the "L" terminal on the alternator.

[strang3majik]

Thanks...I'll have to try that...I need to get a test light though...all I have is a meter <_<

 

But...something else I figured I'd mention, my turn signals don't work either, nor do my high beams...my radio is aftermarket (came with the car) and is hooked up to a constant hot that was behind it...I couldn't find a switched positive behind the radio at all, almost all of them seemed hot all the time or dead...and they were all wires that were supposed to be plugged into something, but, I have no idea what they all went to (once again, wires not on the diagram).

 

And, the battery is good...actually holding up quite well...but, I haven't really driven the car yet, just want to work out this quirk before I start driving it...because my electric fan is going to kill it quick.

 

But...studying the diagram more...it looks like the white/red wire is the one that goes to the cluster, so...I'll pull the plug off of the cluster and check for power...it seems like that might be the problem for the entire deal. Is that wire the power for the cluster as well?

 

Is where the white/red wire is just solid white where a fusible link is? Maybe thats the problem?

[jun]

Did you jump the wires by using the old connector for the external regulator?

I had traced an alt problem to one of the pins in the connector pulling out, when the connectors were joined. Of course I checked everything before checking that. If you are, check that those pins in the connector are seated in there. I just installed an IR alt in my car today and noticed that connector is a weak point in my connection. I'm going to eventually chop it off and hardwire it since I don't plan on going back to an external regulator. Just something to check, its those little things that drive you nuts :frantics:

[banzai510(hainz)]

strang3majik

 

If they wired to constance power most likely its the cig lighter circut. To verify this pull the fuse that says common and that will be it. This feeds the dome light and door buzzer also.

 

The highbeam not working? Does the low beam work? most times Yes. then if you go to High and you loose all the lights then its most likely the relay. These can be open uped and cleaned. This also means tyour switch on the steering os ok or one can hear the relay click

 

Turn signals will not work or might not, I think if your not chargin up or got maybe a bunt bulb. I would look at this at a later date.

 

YOu got a Haynes manual? Ck the wire circut on page 181 or if they is a web source for a schematic

[banzai510(hainz)]

the radio wire is 2 blue wires doubled together with a female end