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Olivia - 69 2 door 510 sedan - fully built CA18DET


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Was able to finish up the brackets. I haven't picked up a surge tank yet, but am planning to run a surge tank with a bosch 044 fuel pump. The surge tank will be fed with the walbro or maybe a  higher volume lower pressure fuel pump. Anyway, here's a picture i took yesterday. A pretty big issue I had was keeping enough room for a full sized spare in there... i don't approve of donuts. I have 4 old tires that were on the car when i got it... those just became my spares/burnout tires :)

 

I want to get sheet metal and make a nice big plate that covers the spare tire area and bolts down. This should give me space to mount the surge tank, etc without drilling/cutting into the trunk... I'm going to stop cutting things. 

 

 

537104_4967506557049_727200306_n.jpg

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I never adjusted the play on my brake pedal. I wonder if that could be a contributing factor to my brakes slowly locking. I keep doing heat tests and the engine bay/downpipe doesn't seem to be hot enough to boil the brake fluid. I just checked my play on the pedal and there is none. Here's hoping for the best! Going add some play in the hopes that it's not just partially engaged and not allowing the fluid to completely release back into the reservoir.

Ill try and give an update as soon as I get time... Going to be up at 5 tomorrow to go to work super early and won't be home until late. Ill be in vega all weekend too, so idk... Hopefully this can get tested sooner rather than later.

 

Updated list of stuff to do for my reference:

  1. Install rear fender flares
  2. Get TC rods from T3... my TC rod bushings are smoked
  3. Buy some sheet metal
  4. Fab a plate to hold the fuel surge tank
  5. Get fittings for surge tank
  6. Pick up a bosch 044 fuel pump
  7. Run new fuel lines
  8. Flip the oil pan
  9. Extend the oil pickup tube to reach the rear of the pan
  10. Purchase bends/tubing for intercooler piping
  11. Install a bung for the intake air temperature sensor to the cold pipe of IC piping (2.5")
  12. Add a nipple to the IC piping just after the compressor for BOV reference
  13. Tap the turbo compressor and add a nipple for a wastegate reference
  14. Wire the windshield wipers to the switch
  15. Get 4 more rear window screws
  16. Change the oil/filter
  17. Add an oil catch can that re-routes to just before the compressor
  18. Re-use stock washers and pull/re-torque head studs (ARP washers are too thin)
  19. Torque the crank pulley
  20. Wire the heater controls
  21. Wire the gauges from the haltech
  22. Find a speedo drive assembly to turn the speedo
  23. Get a boost controller
  24. Get an s13 speedo cable
  25. Get a push button for the starter
  26. Use giant rockstar can as coolant overflow
  27. Tuck/protect/heat shrink gauge/switch wiring
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I don't know why, but I got a wild idea. My friend has a pulsar gti-r engine/trans laying around....

 

pulsar gti-r wheelbase = 96 inches

datsun 510 wheelbase = 95.3 inches

 

hmmm........ i think i should (for scientific research purposes) lay it down underneath olivia and see if it fits... what do you think?

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RWD gti-r? 

 

no... I really like the gear ratios of the ca18 trans.

 

I meant use the awd trans to make the 510 awd. I don't think it's something i'd actually attempt but i feel like it would be interesting to take a look at the layout and see how closely it lines up/what would be needed to do it

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RWD GTi-R?? 

I don't think the mounts and everything will line up let alone the Distributer. 

 

Not to mention The distributer will be in the rear and you'd have to cut a huge clearance into the firewall...  :(

And the plenum intake is to the rear right? 

 

If it's a CA, it doesn't have a distributor. And since in the Pulsar it sits sideways, you'd need to basically make the car FWD first. If you turn the engine north/south like his current engine, I'd wager none of the AWD bits are going to work. 

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Wow, pretty stoked.. install was a breeze. I don't think it even took 30 minutes. Does anyone in socal know where I can purchase sheet metal and mandrel bent steel tubing?

 

Old TC rods, blown out bushings

377598_10200103277496290_691284829_n.jpg

 

New sexy TC rods from T3

17723_10200103277456289_638232679_n.jpg

 

Passenger TC  rod installed

563517_10200103277416288_15984945_n.jpg

 

Driver TC rod installed

166792_10200103277576292_1720300035_n.jp

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Thanks dantheman! Because it's my car I see all the bad stuff, so it still looks like poop to me. Hearing that stuff makes me happy. Thanks!

 

 

Threw it up on jack stands (this time I'm happy about it)
312430_10200114399814341_307466943_n.jpg
 
He, he, he... github and arduino stickers... i'm a 1337 h4x0r bro!
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Removed the tires
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FENDERZZZZ!!!
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Mocked the fenders to see where they would sit if I line up the top line of the fender with the top line of the body
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Side view
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Different angle
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Not sure if I'm going to run the fenders as high as matching the top line of the fender with the line on the body... it seems pretty high. We'll see though.
251722_10200114400734364_969386714_n.jpg
 
Different angle
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Other side. Gives you an idea of how much more room i'll have for tires. <3!!!!
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Set up the tire to mark the tire line against the fender. That way I have a reference for where to place the fender.
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Pretty low, but I can get lower.
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Low enough yet?
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This is where I left off. It's 9:30, so I don't want to keep cutting right now. I have more material to remove, but i feel like this is a good start.
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Noooo.... i didn't realize my cutting wheel was pretty much toast until i started just now. I was able to cut just a tiny bit more... but i need to go get a wheel to make any more progress. I'll pick one up after work since i only have 20 minutes left to work on my car anyway.....

 

damn :(

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hoping to get this finished by the end of the weekend. Not sure how feasible that is. I think the whole thing is just time consuming. Re-measuring, test fitting, repeat.

 

I'm hoping I can swing by the store later tonight to get cutting wheels and maybe in the AM grab some sheet metal to weld inside. 

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