guillermofergu Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Thanks for all of the positive feedback, everyone! I'll get started on this car asap! Quote Link to comment
APOD Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I will look around the storage unit and see if I have a pedal box laying around I recall one or two extras being in there. Quote Link to comment
guillermofergu Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I will look around the storage unit and see if I have a pedal box laying around I recall one or two extras being in there. That would be excellent! If you have anything else related to making my swap to manual transmission, that would be awesome as well! Quote Link to comment
SoCal Rotarito Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Very nice! Yours is cleaner than my dime when I first got mine. Welcome! Quote Link to comment
guillermofergu Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I made a little list/outline on what I want to do. It's very bland and basic, but I like lists so I can stay focused. This is all to be done after fixing the idle problem. I don't know what order it's all to be done in yet, but the creature comforts will be done as I please with the more important things as I see fit (or with the advisement of you folks!) I know the list is fairly incomplete as they're all things I could think of off the top of my head, but I was curious on opinions/concerns and whether or not the pricing sounds way off based on your personal experience. I got my numbers based on the average cost of parts (according to my possibly flawed research), and a little extra in case I'm not including something. I can't quite factor in labor because I don't know what I won't do myself, but I want to try and do everything I can. I have a decent working space with a lot of basic tools, but it charges by the hour for me to use it and is limited to certain times. I appreciate anything you throw at me! I hunger for information (just because I'm asking here doesn't mean I haven't already looked it up to some degree!) :) VITAMIN C ___________ Engine: L20B: -direct swap needs modified exhaust, oilpan, and pickup, (???) estimated cost on total swap: ~<$2500 Drive Train: - transmission: 5 speed: dogleg or z - drive shaft: poss need to shorten for z tranny - rear lsd: pref 4.11:1, but 3.9:1 and 3.7:1 are acceptable - from subaru (most likely) estimated cost on total swap: ~$1200 Suspension: - new fitted 280z(zx) struts for lowering (or super custom expensive shit that comes with everything necessary) - lowering springs (~2in) - bushings everywhere - items that need to be replaced upon further inspection estimated cost on replacement: tbd Electric: - tachometer - rewire electric fan - necessary changes (unk) estimated cost on replacement: ~$180 Brakes: - rear disk brake conversion - replace upon sizable wear estimated cost on total swap: ~$1000 Body/Interior: - NEW SEATS - steering wheel - cup holder estimated cost on replacement: ~$800 Wheels/tires: - custom 13in wheels - staggered tires estimated cost on total swap: ~$1000 TOTALS: ~$6680+ Quote Link to comment
Dat510_Chris Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Another option for a 5 speed is a 77'-80' out of a 620 still have to modify cross member and shorten drive line. Quote Link to comment
guillermofergu Posted February 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Another option for a 5 speed is a 77'-80' out of a 620 still have to modify cross member and shorten drive line. Does it bolt right in? Quote Link to comment
Dat510_Chris Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Does it bolt right in? Yeah the 79' 80' is better they changed the nut holding the gear in place to a reverse thread after they found out that the 77' 78' model was unthreading itself and caused the gears to move. Its also better ratios for the 510 than the Z car 5 speeds. Quote Link to comment
guillermofergu Posted February 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Yeah the 79' 80' is better they changed the nut holding the gear in place to a reverse thread after they found out that the 77' 78' model was unthreading itself and caused the gears to move. Its also better ratios for the 510 than the Z car 5 speeds. Oooh, there's one for sale in my local area! :D Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 I think I would just buff it out and drive it.Just leave it. lower it and maybe some wheels get a 5 speed and clutch set up thru the years and youll need a manual gas pedal also as it offset more. clutch brake/clutch assembly. good luck. Quote Link to comment
guillermofergu Posted February 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 I think I would just buff it out and drive it.Just leave it. lower it and maybe some wheels get a 5 speed and clutch set up thru the years and youll need a manual gas pedal also as it offset more. clutch brake/clutch assembly. good luck. The automatic transmission isn't in the best of condition and I prefer to drive stick anyway, so that's definitely the first thing I'm doing (to the best of my ability given the time to source parts). It may also be the only thing I do to the drive train for a year or so; I want to feel out the l16, as I've never had one before, and then decide if I need a power upgrade. I enjoy this little car, and I want to make it last. I will try to get it a little more cleaned up, but I'm not really concerned with how it looks for now considering its current condition. Basically, I'm more concerned about drivability than other drivers jizzing themselves when they see the car. BUT that doesn't mean that I can't wait to make this orange monster of mine gleam. :D Quote Link to comment
oregondime Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 watch out on these san antonio roads... i drive my 510 almost every day here, and there isnt a day where im being tail gated or cut off... you'd think they'd have some respect for the classics. Quote Link to comment
guillermofergu Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 I used to speed. I don't any longer. I appreciate the advice. Is your sr20 not able to hold in traffic? That scares me a little because of my little old l16. Quote Link to comment
oregondime Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 able to hold? not sure i know what your meaning is, but it does good in traffic, i can blast by the tons of semi trucks when i need too. yea id be a little scared with the l16 and trying to pass Quote Link to comment
guillermofergu Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I don't normally drive outside the 410/151/1604 area, so I'm not overly worried. I need to get some things done so the l16 is a little more peppy, but I'm working on other things first like replacing my holey exhaust, getting my 5 speed in, and shoving an lsd in. If I ever need to go elsewhere, I've also got a ford focus that does well in traffic. Once I get my 510 registered in my name and am able to drive around a bit more, we should hang out sometime. Quote Link to comment
oregondime Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 sounds good, there isnt many 510's here so itll be nice to see another lol.. Quote Link to comment
TheBirdistheWord Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 First of all, thats a damn good looking ride you have there. I know I am a bit late to the party but I JUST finished the motor and tranny swap you're looking into, so when I stumbled upon your thread I thought I would give some input on it. Im not sure what the local used parts supply (i.e. Craigslist) looks like where you are but your cost projections for the motor and tranny swap seem a bit high. Unless you're getting everything professionally done, and depending on what kind of used components you have access to, I would say cut those numbers in half. If you're doing the work yourself that would still be on the liberal side of my cost so far. I decided to try and consolidate some of the information I tracked down in various places for my swap in its own thread. hope this helps http://community.ratsun.net/topic/42016-510-l16-w-automatic-l20b-280zx-5-speed-swap-tutorial/ Quote Link to comment
guillermofergu Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 I saw that thread this morning! I've recently bought all the parts (I hope) to put a dogleg 5 speed transmission on my l16. I bought "everything that makes the engine manual with transmission" including new master and slave cylinders. There's a few things I'm unsure of right now (I haven't cataloged all my parts so I don't even know what I'm unsure about...the whole swap, I guess. I've been told that I have to make some spacers for the transmission crossmember and a few other things. I wonder if it's the same for both the zx transmission and the dogleg. Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Mounting for the ZX trans is different than the dogleg. The dogleg can get away with just using spacers (I have been told), the ZX trans needs some cutting and fab work or buy a custom cross member for $75 from VG30.com. Quote Link to comment
guillermofergu Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Yeah. I've been having difficulty finding the exact thickness of the spacing for the spacers. Also, just found out while checking my oil that I have a w53 head. I don't know what to think about that. Didn't they come on imported l18's that had fuel injection? Does that mean if it has the holes for injectors, I could get rid of the carb set up? Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 A nearly rust free Datsun =. <3 I miss the south in that sense Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Yeah. I've been having difficulty finding the exact thickness of the spacing for the spacers. Also, just found out while checking my oil that I have a w53 head. I don't know what to think about that. Didn't they come on imported l18's that had fuel injection? Does that mean if it has the holes for injectors, I could get rid of the carb set up? Any efi system on a l motor was never sold in the USA, some members fab up their own but it takes a really good skill set to do it right and make it reliable. If you want cheap efi and more hp I would recommend getting a ka24e. Preferably from a early 240sx s13 89-90 had them. That's what I'm getting for my wagon, cheap parts, strong motor. And pretty easy to work on Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Yeah. I've been having difficulty finding the exact thickness of the spacing for the spacers. Also, just found out while checking my oil that I have a w53 head. I don't know what to think about that. Didn't they come on imported l18's that had fuel injection? Does that mean if it has the holes for injectors, I could get rid of the carb set up? Yeah finding factory JDM injection stuff will be very difficult. The plus to a w53 is that most of them have peanut combustion chambers. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Im sorry for posting in the Goon thread as I no longer have a goon (I only had the title for a day, but I count it damn it)... but Guillermo brings up a good point. The guy I bought my 4dr from built all sorts of Datsuns. I should look and see what head I have... I never thought to ask. Quote Link to comment
guillermofergu Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 I'm starting to question if I even have an l16 in my car. Near one of the freeze plugs or whatever, there's some markings with "3" and "210" right beside each other...does that correspond to being an l16? Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.