*Won't Start*

[wagoon]

Alright here's the situation: 72' goon with L16 and Hitachi carb, dual points and so forth. I had the car running last week, drove it after not being driven for over 2yrs from the previous owner, the points got burnt pretty bad and was idling high as well, put 2 gallons of 87 gas, drove approximately 15 miles before it gave up on me.

 

Now, here's what Ive done so far: Switched out the dual points with NAPA ones, gapped it at 0.18, new rotor, dizzy cap, condensor, fuel filter, it turns over but no start, hand over carb barrel and there is vacum suction but it's weak.

 

I have a gas can with 91 octane, not sure if I want to dump that in there, is that ok cuz Iv'e been using 87?

 

 

Clogged fuel lines maybe, ballast, coil? What else can it be?

 

When it turns over it does sound kind of weak, I just don't want to pull out the starter and start buying a bunch of stuff. Let me know what you guys think before I move forward.

[metalmonkey47]

Is the carb spraying fuel when the throttle is opened? (Should see this from the accelerator pump)

 

 

Do you have spark?

 

Have you run a compression test?

 

 

 

 

 

It can be any number of things but step one is verifying whether it's spark/fuel/compression related.

[]2eDeYe]

Are you getting spark? Fuel pump working? Not a lot to go on...

[banzai510(hainz)]

When it turns over it does sound kind of weak, I just don't want to pull out the starter and start buying a bunch of stuff.

 

You got BMWs ,Means your Rich and should be no proplem for a car guy like you.

 

pull the center wire out from dizzy cap and place near ground)chassis. try to start see if it sparks(you should be like 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch to the chassis. if NO spark its right there. in the dizzy. You might have it grounded out ,screw or wire hitting something or points went out of adjustment.

 

If spark. try putting a little gas in the carb from the top and see if it fires off. if it doesn then you got a gas feed proplem.

If this is still stock the carb should have a glass front and youll see gas in the carb. if weber carb I just cycle the linkage and look if you see gas being squirted in the main barrel. If NOT then bowl is empty meaning the needle valve or the fuel pump is not working.

 

To ck the fuel pump take the output side of the hose and point it in a safe dircetion and try start car(turn over a few cranks. Gas should shoot out of there. Ck if intake gas hose is not cracked also as it will not ceate a vaccum to suck the gas IN.

 

Have you look at olddatsuns.com?

 

This is a SIMPLE FIX

 

 

 

Im not getting the 87 octane and 91 octane question????? who cares it gas put it in.91 means it has to get to a higher temp before it lights off. Thats it You dont get more power. Just cheaper gas lights off before you want it to thus the claim of less power.

[wagoon]

So I checked at the dizzy for spark and no spark. So what now? Dizzy gone bad, just changed the points and gap again...nothing. Spark plug to chassis, no spark. Somewhere in the Dizzy or coil? The gas was fine, nice vacum on my Hitachi.

[metalmonkey47]

So I checked at the dizzy for spark and no spark. So what now? Dizzy gone bad, just changed the points and gap again...nothing. Spark plug to chassis, no spark. Somewhere in the Dizzy or coil? The gas was fine, nice vacum on my Hitachi.

 

Check your fuses.

Check voltage at - terminal of the coil. Should read about 9 volts (IIRC.)

 

 

If you pull the cap and have someone turn the key, do you see any sparking at the points?

[wagoon]

Yeah, had my son turn it over and there was no spark at the points. I'm going to go fresh and new tomorrow with: Ballast resistor, ignition coil, and is there anything else I should add?

[banzai510(hainz)]

just ohm out the ballast resisitor.

 

ohm out the coil.

 

have you cked for 12volts at the blk/wht wire?

The blk/blu wire will get 12volts during START

blk/grn is at the outerside of the ballast(or viceversa) they shorted under the tape anyways.

 

If you get that then your key switch is good

 

get a test light. clamp the aligator end to the main set of points tab on the dizzyThis will be the one with the Bigger condensor. take the pointed end and put it on the +postive battery. If light is On then the points are shorted to ground(or closed position). Now Start the car. the test light should blink on/off. If not then the connection is not breaking(open set of points) a Coil will fire when the points open.If you see physicLLY THE POINTS OPENING BUT TEST LIGHT IS NO GOING ON/OFF THEN THE POINTS are grounding out

 

PS if you buy a new coil and ballast make sure its for that year car Points want a higher value ohm coil and use a ballast resisitor.

take a photo with your dig camera how the wires are installed before you remove. Or take photos for us.

 

 

I bet a screw is grounding out in the points or soemthing like that.

[ggzilla]

Don't buy any more parts -- that is not the solution.

 

Listen to Hainz.

[banzai510(hainz)]

You can use a OHM meter also, best if you have anolog needle version so you can see the needle more easly

[wagoon]

Alright, you guys are right, just tested it out and this is what I got...

 

http://youtu.be/uIFRUHDDHoM

Before Pics:

...and after...

[ggzilla]

MSD Blaster 2 is OK, a little weaker than the stock coil, but close enough to work correctly.

 

So does it start now?

[Dirttrack510]

I run points in all my Datsuns... yeah yeah I know... I'm out dated, :P but they're simple. I'd bet money you mis-adjusted your points. I've done it myself and you get no spark. Turn the engine over by hand with the ignition off till the lobe inside the dizzy is centered on the little wear pad on your points. loosen the screws on your points and put your .018 gap gauge between the contact areas on the points. put just enough pressure on the points to lightly hole the gap gauge in place with the wear pad against the lobe, while you tighten down the set screws with the other hand.

 

Remove gap gauge, then turn over the engine by hand and watch to see if the points are closing all the way and then opening up when the cam comes around. If you have dual points do one set at a time. You actually only need one set to make the car run though. I have a dual point dizzy and only have one set of points in the dizzy. If you only run one set of points in a dual dizzy, run the set that is closest to the engine/opposite side from the vacuum advance.

 

Once you know your points are working, put back your rotor, and cap and wires etc... and try to start your car again. I bet it fires right up. By the way, I know the book calls for .018 gap, but I run mine at about .016 and it runs great. Not quite as hot a spark, but the points last longer = Less maintenance :D

 

I usually go about 15,000 miles per set, but I do re-adjust them after about the first 2,000 miles, because the little wear pad will wear/shape to the lobe and they will go out of adjustment a little. Then I'm usually good to go till the 15,000 mile interval.

 

I hope this helps :)

[Rays74]

A simple thought, but could you have swapped the points insulator when you replaced the old points sets? The wires have to be isolated from ground and are very easy to mix up and accidently ground them to the distributor body. Ask me how I know :rolleyes:

 

--Ray

[wagoon]

It starts right up!!!

 

It was the gap for the points, since I have not had to play with ponts for over 20 something odd years, I totally forgot how to do it I guess. I too am running a single dual point closest to the motor along with one condensor. I had a bad condensor, I wanted to refresh ballast, and coil. I know they may have not been needed but I still wanted to know that I am starting fresh. This car has been sitting over 2yrs out in the cold in the Bay area and she was quite happy with the new parts. My battery was at 10.45 volts and needed to be replaced, so I did.

 

Next up: Electronic dizzy, brakes, suspension, and I may need your guyzezzz help. Thanks.

[Dirttrack510]

Awesome, glad you got er' going :thumbup:

[ggzilla]

Electronic ignition is much simpler than points, more reliable, and delivers more consistent power. You will love it.