Gas tank and POR 15?

[metalmonkey47]

Just curious how compatible this stuff is with gas?

 

A few months back I tried to repair a small pin hole in my gas tank with JB stick, but it seeps.

 

 

 

What i was thinking of doing as a more permanent solution is to full it 1/4 with pea gravel, shake it around a good bit to knock out any sediment and tear any rust out, flush it with some harsh chemicals, and coat the outside of the tank with POR15. I figure as long as I keep gas in the tank, it shouldn't rust again.

 

If the POR15 resists fuel, it would seal the exterior of the tank and stop any leakage.

 

 

I've never used POR15 before so I'm looking for an excuse to use it. I think this would be a good trial run.

 

 

 

Input?

Edited February 9, 2012 by metalmonkey47

[jefe de jefes]

http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/FTRK/

[metalmonkey47]

I'm not looking to line the inside of the tank. I've had bad experiences with that stuff before and I'm not gonna want to play with it again.

 

For the price, I might as well take it somewhere to be professionally repaired.

 

 

 

 

I'm gonna be ordering some POR15 anyways, so I'm curious about how it would work.

[jesusno2]

It works good my wagon tank as it and ive done a good 20 motorcycle tanks with it. Take your sweet ass time dont rush and follow the instructions in the kit get it as clean as you possibly can. Some of the real nasty tanks ive used muriatic acid first. Radiator shops are good at cleaning fuel tanks also. JB weld will eventually disolve learned that the hard way.

[Laecaon]

I'm not looking to line the inside of the tank. I've had bad experiences with that stuff before and I'm not gonna want to play with it again.

 

For the price, I might as well take it somewhere to be professionally repaired.

 

 

 

 

I'm gonna be ordering some POR15 anyways, so I'm curious about how it would work.

 

mmm, try it. If its just some extra POR you have. Couple of coats might actually stop it for awhile.

 

But it seems ghetto.

[DAT510]

welding isn't that hard, even a super shitty weld will work better than JB weld, but you want to THOROUGHLY clean that tank up.

i think you can ghetto weld with a battery, just ground the tank, and place your wire on the positive side, obviously there are more steps to do it safely

[metalmonkey47]

It works good my wagon tank as it and ive done a good 20 motorcycle tanks with it. Take your sweet ass time dont rush and follow the instructions in the kit get it as clean as you possibly can. Some of the real nasty tanks ive used muriatic acid first. Radiator shops are good at cleaning fuel tanks also. JB weld will eventually disolve learned that the hard way.

 

So you've physically used the POR15 tank liner kits?

How well is it with tiny pin holes?

 

 

 

My biggest concern is long term. If it works for a few years and screws me in the ass, it's not really what I wanna get into. I need a more perminant solution.

[wayno]

Putting crap on the outside of the tank is not going to fix anything long term, start as you stated, gravel, lead shot, or a small heavy chain inside the tank, shake it around for a while till you knock any loose stuff off, then remove all said material from tank, and if you have air, blow it out.

Now go get a high quality(don't be cheap) tank sealer and follow directions.

I use "Bill Hirsh, alcohol resistant gas tank sealer", there number is, 1-800-828-2061, I have not called this number in years, as what is not used is poured back into the can and used on the next tank, this stuff is freaking awesome, no waste, just keep using it till it is gone.

Beleave it or not, I was not that good at following directions a long time ago, still ain't to tell the truth, when I poured the excess back in the can the first time, it poured back out lumpy, I did not figure it out till after the next tank I used it on, when the next tank dried, and I looked inside it, I could see rust chunks everywhere, so I used a filter and poured the sealer threw it into a disposable cup, that filter was full of rust chunks, but I never had a problem with them tanks again, and one had holes in it, and it fixed the holes too.

Beleave it or not, there directions say to cover any existing holes with DUCT TAPE, then after it is dry, your done.

This is the best stuff I have ever used, it fixes swiss cheese.

[Siempreloco]

My suggestion, if you plan on going the POR 15 route (which i have used a very WIDE variety of their products, from garage floor sealer, rust preventing clearcoat, regular por, etc, is to get some of the por 15 putty and mesh to use on the exterior of the tank for the holes, paint it with por 15 after sanding and prepping and cleaning properly, AND use the por 15 gas tank cleaner/sealer for the inside.

 

It is all VERY quality stuff and me and my grandfather use it religiously.

 

Worth every penny.

[jesusno2]

Well my wagon has had the stuff in the tank for about 2 years now never seen a peice of it stuck in the filter yet. A good freind of mine is going on about 12 years on a custom honda cb750 tank that someone did a horrible job welding and it had holes everywhere in it. Like I said clean clean clean then clean some more, and you wont have another issue. Buy the complete kit. If its real bad muratic acid and a chain will remove the big stuff and start the etching process. Also once you start the por 15 process do not let it sit over night cause all that acid will almost instantly start flash rusting with any moisture that comes in contact with the bare metal.

[Boaty]

Uhh... no offense, but a gas tank is the last thing I'd want to half-ass ghetto fix. Do it RIGHT and don't be CHEAP, or you're going to be doing it AGAIN, and you'll feel like an idiot afterwards.

 

If it's a pinhole, you can braze it. Hell you can braze a gash if you had to.

 

Most places will clean the inside chemically, then fully steam it out and rinse. Once it's dry, they'll pressure test it to seek out leaks, and then the leaks will be sealed ether with brazing rod or solder. After the leak has been repaired, it will be pressure tested again to make sure the repair was done properly. Then they will seal the tank up, and you're done.

 

JB Weld is a HORRIBLE idea, so completely forget that right now.

Tank sealer is going to fill little pinholes and such, sure - but nothing that isn't metal is going to replace metal. Once again back to brazing and/or soldering. Most places will seal up the braze job with solder afterwards, for a double-whammy.

 

The last time I brought this subject up with somebody, they told me that fuel will eat the solder and I was full of shit! That's funny, considering all the ports and connections in a 510 gas tank are soldered in.

 

 

Take your tank down to a radiator repair shop, and have them clean, test, repair and seal your gas tank and enjoy a tank that's going to last a long time. Don't be cheap, lol.

By all means, POR-15 (or ZeroRust) the exterior, it works great. I can't comment on their sealing products, I'll only ever have that done professionally with a warranty.