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Minty Fresh 510


Tristin

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Also an easier JY option if need be. The Z halfshaft should swap straight in as a complete unit. 

 

Haven't personally tried it myself yet, but side by side on the floor they look identical. 

 

There are a couple Zs here that I can try that with. Might do that if Qs parts dont work out. Thanks again!- wealth of knowledge. 

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Well Im hoping to pick up new u-joints tomorrow and install them this weekend. Hopefully it goes a little smoother than having to cut them out...

Tristin:

 

Im at work at the moment and may have a writeup on my home pc I did years ago on dismantling and rebuilding halfshafts. 

 

Im not confident ive still got it and for the life of me I cant remember which forum I posted it on, however if I find it ill post it.

 

Youll need a reasonable quality vice, FBH, and if possible a brass drift (solid brass tube) slightly smaller than the uni joint OD, as well as a pair of circlip pliers to do this job.

 

Also, if you get mega motivated its not hard to pull apart the halfshafts and regrease the ball bearings and spacers.

 

Its a bit tricky with some of the older halfshafts as the rubber boots can get a bit brittle.  If you go down this path, I use the steel ties you get with some CV boots (sort of like a plastic cable tie) when replacing the boots.

 

Hopefully this makes sense, if not, let me know and ill try and do some Oics

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Ive seen a couple how-tos floating around so I think Ive got the u-joint replacement covered knowledge wise... just actually doing it might be a bit of a pain with a few people comments on having trouble. We shall see as I will be attempting the rebuild this weekend. 

 

Ive read some posts on the Realm that full rebuilds arent that easy. Taking them apart is ok, but getting them back together isnt the easiest. 

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When I looked it up just now, the "MOOG/PRECISION Part # 391" is listed as a direct replacement for all 6 joints. And I know in the past, I've used the same joint in all 6, so...

 

FWIW, the same number says it works on a 240Z, 260Z, 620, 720, and 610/710. 

That's  interesting !

 

What I've noticed is similiar to Laecaon .. in rockauto currently carried  brands

identify the half-shaft and driveshaft joints as all to be seperate for 240z , 260z :confused: and not superseding.

 

Moog/Precision #391 = Driveshaft

Moog/Precision #393 = Halfshafts

 

I could be wrong IDK , but I've always used those numbers/brand off rockauto ^^^ when replacing mine :)

 

Maybe like you're saying a cool  #391 u-joint that trumps all u-joints applicable and interchangeable ? :)

that's cool.

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My driveline guy also swears there is a Ford Bronco u-joint that will fit and is a little bit beefier...   :rofl:

 

He put them in one of the driveshafts he built for me when we couldn't find the right Datsun joints in stock anywhere local. Never had a problem with them, but don't know what number they were either. He just measured the joints with a micrometer and got what was the same size. 

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That's  interesting !

 

What I've noticed is similiar to Laecaon .. in rockauto currently carried  brands

identify the half-shaft and driveshaft joints as all to be seperate for 240z , 260z :confused: and not superseding.

 

Moog/Precision #391 = Driveshaft

Moog/Precision #393 = Halfshafts

 

 

Is it possible one has grease fittings and one doesn't? Maybe that's the difference...

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My driveline guy also swears there is a Ford Bronco u-joint that will fit and is a little bit beefier...   :rofl:

 

He put them in one of the driveshafts he built for me when we couldn't find the right Datsun joints in stock anywhere local. Never had a problem with them, but don't know what number they were either. He just measured the joints with a micrometer and got what was the same size. 

 

That's AWESOME :rofl: :thumbup:

 

well that's good to know ! I've always wondered the same-thing myself :thumbup:

Just wasn't willing to take the risk ... :lol: hahaha

IDK on the difference , but that sounds good to me atm :lol: :thumbup:

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It's been 6-7 years, so it's doubtful...   :blush:

 

A good driveline shop (if there's one near you) should be able to mic yours? 

 

I have the proper measuring equipment. I just dont have the knowledge on whats a "beefier version."

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That's  interesting !

 

What I've noticed is similiar to Laecaon .. in rockauto currently carried  brands

identify the half-shaft and driveshaft joints as all to be seperate for 240z , 260z :confused: and not superseding.

 

Moog/Precision #391 = Driveshaft

Moog/Precision #393 = Halfshafts

 

I could be wrong IDK , but I've always used those numbers/brand off rockauto ^^^ when replacing mine :)

 

Maybe like you're saying a cool  #391 u-joint that trumps all u-joints applicable and interchangeable ? :)

that's cool.

 

So if you look at RockAuto there is no 393 listed anymore for 510s. I only see 391 as a U-joint option... Oreilys website confirms that as well. If you look up 393 on Oreilys site, it doesnt list 510 as compatible, but there are other Datsuns that are. With some people saying theyve been using 393s and both websites saying 510s only use 391s, Im not sure what to believe. 

 

Is it possible one has grease fittings and one doesn't? Maybe that's the difference...

 

Comparing the details on Oreilys site they are both greaseable. They are different sizes all together:

 

391

Lubricateable?: Yes

Lube Fitting Location: Regular Lube Fitting In Bearing

Bearing A Type: Round Grooved

Bearing A Diameter: 0.985" (25.0mm)

Length A**: 1.732" (44.0mm)

Bearing B Type: Round Grooved

Bearing B Diameter: 0.985" (25.0mm)

Length B**: 1.732" (44.0mm)

OE Series: Nissan & Subaru

------------------------------------------------

393

Lubricateable?: Yes

Lube Fitting Location: Regular Lube Fitting In Cross

Bearing A Type: Round Grooved

Bearing A Diameter: 1.103" (28.0mm)

Length A**: 2.205" (56.0mm)

Bearing B Type: Round Grooved

Bearing B Diameter: 1.103" (28.0mm)

Length B**: 2.205" (56.0mm)

OE Series: Nissan & Subaru

 

 

Hopefully I pickup the right ones. We shall see tomorow when I do my half-shafts. It would be nice if I could source an LSD locally and just do a CV conversion at the same time. Maybe that will be a Summertime project. I have some cash saved up, but not sure if LSD/CV is what I want to blow it on at this stage of the build. 

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Ohhh! I think its year dependent! Napa's site changes based on whether I pick 69 or 71.

 

I checked RockAuto for both 69 and 71 and looked at Oreilys site with no year selected and just a complete listing of compatible cars.... no 510s at all. 

 

Edit: I just re-checked to make sure I wasnt talking out of my ass, and RockAuto has no 393s listed for 69/70/71 510s under Nissan>[YEAR]>510>1.6L L4>Drivetrain>Universal Joint

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So if you look at RockAuto there is no 393 listed anymore for 510s. I only see 391 as a U-joint option... Oreilys website confirms that as well. If you look up 393 on Oreilys site, it doesnt list 510 as compatible, but there are other Datsuns that are. With some people saying theyve been using 393s and both websites saying 510s only use 391s, Im not sure what to believe. 

 

 

Comparing the details on Oreilys site they are both greaseable. They are different sizes all together:

 

I was only reffering datsunfreaks refference to the 240z , and 260z application for the #391 and #393 not 510's ;)

The 391 and 393 inter-changeability thing is interesting though !

I've caught Oreily's parts system #'s a couple times with the wrong part ... had to explain nicely in the store... I'd be careful/weary of using them.

Napa where's that is at or Nissan ^^^

One mistake from Oreily's system ... was a commutator bearing for a Ford Alternator :rolleyes: ... literally had the alternator in my hand and showed them what was what.

 

Make sure to pop the u-joint "rust seal" on one-side , then flip the flange around and do the same on the other side opposed.

It makes life easier , but everyone has a slightly different method. some use penetration , some use heat , some use a BFG.

If you're not using a shop press ... see if you can find one first as it will make life much easier on ya.

If not.. the other methods work just fine.

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Digital caliper once you pull your's out ;)

.... or someone measure a spare half-shaft one for ya ... if you need to purchase first before teardown.

 

I have Precision 393's for my 240z/280z half-shafts ready to go on my night stand lol ( for the spare half-shafts)

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Look again on Rockauto (full site)

 

You will notice it says 391 for "at tranny" and "at axle"

 

Then look at the ACDelco parts 1 part number for the "at tranny" and "at axle"  and another for the half shafts. For both 69 and 71.

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