mrbigtanker Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Can anyone supply a link to the after market harnesses??? Why do you need a after market wire harness,just splice and lengthen the harness you got and fish it through the fender wells or what ever you need to do to make it clean. 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 my harness worked fine and i have my fuse box is on the pass. kick panel, although i needed to add to my temp sending wire, brake Warning wire, and horns with the way i ran mine Quote Link to comment
nikleNdyme Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 What are some aftermarket wiring harnesses. Most I've found are only for doing swaps. Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 What are some aftermarket wiring harnesses. Most I've found are only for doing swaps. You'd have to buy a universal harness and adapt it to the 510. There are no 510 specific aftermarket harnesses. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Search ebay for a "hot rod wiring harness", you'll get a few hundred results. Why do you need a after market wire harness,just splice and lengthen the harness you got and fish it through the fender wells or what ever you need to do to make it clean. Because you're still left with a 40 year old harness. That alone should warrant replacement. But now you're going to cut it all up, in addition to the cutting and splicing that all of the previous owners have done over the years, usually ends up with a really butchered harness. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Take the time to do it right, and you can have one like this: 2 Quote Link to comment
nikleNdyme Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Where did u hide your wiper motor? That's one nice clean looking engine bay by the way Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 hes in AZ ... he prolly doesn't have one :rofl: Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 your going to spend $200+ on a new harness thats not going to have ANY of the connectors your car needs, then your going to spend a week or more, either cutting and splicing all your old connectors, or sourcing new ones . you then have to tie into your dash harness unless your going all new gauges and cluster. than when its all said and done your going to cross your fingers on start up ..... take your old harness out, open it up, use this to figure out what everything is, and tuck from there Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Search ebay for a "hot rod wiring harness", you'll get a few hundred results. Because you're still left with a 40 year old harness. That alone should warrant replacement. But now you're going to cut it all up, in addition to the cutting and splicing that all of the previous owners have done over the years, usually ends up with a really butchered harness. And? I did not replace my harness in my 42 year old truck,yea if you got the car from the PO and he hacked the wiring but if it was all stock like mine then why worry it was 12 volt,now if you had 6 volt then lets upgrade the wiring. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 I'm going to assume by some of these comments that you guys haven't rewired a car. We've done two so far, and will be doing a third. It's not nearly as hard to do as people think. It might take 2 weeks if you only spend an hour a day for those 2 weeks. You can do the majority of it in one weekend. Our current harness was $135 on ebay, so it's not expensive. Sure it may "not have any of the connectors", but what you're missing is the fact that 50% of the connectors are gone when you rewire the car. All the needless crap that came from the factory gets pulled out. The only places you have to splice into original connectors are the tail lights, gauge cluster, headlight and wiper switches, and wiper motor. Things like the headlights get new connectors. So unless your a complete idiot who doesn't know how to use crimp connections for certain things, it's not a hard task. Yeh, and what happens when you try to bend those 40 year old wires if you're in places like the southwest? They crack. Plus, have you ever cut into the end of a wire on an old harness? There's corrosion that has seeped up into the wire several inches, which causes resistance. When you replace all the old crap you can see just how bright your lights are supposed to be. You don't "tie into" your dash harness, you are replacing it, along with everything else in the car. Which is way easier than tying into it, because all you do now is terminate the wires. Yes I got rid of my wiper motor. Quote Link to comment
qwik510 Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Ryan, What eBay harness did you use? Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 I am using an EZ Wire harness that I got off ebay along with re-using my old harness connectors. Just use the original wiring diagram and follow the directions in the wiring manual. Along with using the schematics and tips on the Painless Wiring site, it has gone rather well. Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 vintageconnections.com has the right (non latching) connectors and they can be bought in singles, or they come in a kit. Terminating the wires is relatively easy. Routing them is most of the work. I will probably re-visit using a Painless harness in the future, I just ran out of time on my project, so I am going with the stock harness.....for now. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 On the first car I used an EZ-2-Wire harness. On the second car we're using an EZ-Wiring harness. I'd recommend the EZ-2-Wire harness, since it comes with *much* better diagrams. The diagrams are worth any discrepancy in price. First one was around $150-160, second one was around $135. I will also add that the EZ-2-Wire harness works with the stock 510 tail lights better than the EZ-Wiring harness does. Both bulbs in each light work as tail lights, then you can do the inners as brake, and the outers as turn. The other style harness has you doing it the single bulb way, like on Chevy pickups, where one bulb is both turn and stop. As a result it wants you to tie the brake circuit into the turn signals, which is a pain. Duncan is correct, the hardest part is routing the wires. It's tough because you'll change your mind 5 times on how you want things routed, and have to re-route the wires through all the nooks and crannies over and over. BUT, you want to make sure you're happy with the way it's laid out, because once you start terminating you're stuck with what you got. Once the wires are routed, doing the terminations is really easy. The one thing that's tricky on old Datsuns, is that the way they wired some things from the factory doesn't make any sense. So when you try fixing things it can be really difficult. Ask anyone who has tried to fix wiring on a 521. So when you replace the harness with a more "American" style unit, things are a lot easier to figure out. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 http://www.goindesign.com/w4r/EZ2Wire-Manual.pdf Quote Link to comment
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