DattoDime70 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 I have a 1970 2dr 510 L-16 , 5 speed dog leg tranny, Weber 2 barrel dcoe 45 9, Cannon manifold, 2 1/2 straight pipe, Matchbox Electric Igniton, 200sx electric coil(Wired right), Stock fuel pump(Had a new one but broke),New dizzy cap and rotor, New fuel line and vent line, New clear house filters(Gets fuel fine), Just did a oil change haha :P, New starter. I set the ignition timing to 11 btdc yesterday with a timing light installed new ngk r sparkpugs with a 0.41 gap for the dizzy specs, It runs smooth but rough at the same time and still get the misfire and die problems. Well i been having this probably about a month now it is my daily driver and i am stumped now :( This is what happens While im driving on the street everything is fine i hop on the freeway to drive home everyday 20 miles and i get misfires and engine dies and it hiccups and backfires like 5 times a day i try to step on the clutch and press in the gas when it misfires so it wont turn off but it turns off the next quarter mile Ill have to pull over and start it up again and itll sputter but the clear filter on top of my engine would be empty, For the last two weeks it was running Fine but itll just overheat pass the mark on the temp on the freeway and when i get of itll drop down to normal so i decided to retard the timing and got messed up. I havent touched the carb so i was thinking its really dirty jets or flooding alot. Im really iof help, I cant figure it out? Anybody know ill appreciate the help. :) I really dont want to get rid of her but im getting tired of the problem :( Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Retard timing will not help. The fuel will still be burning as it goes out the valve transferring way too much heat to the exhaust port and into the coolant. Put it back. Runs good in town but baffs out on the highway. Carb running lean is my guess. Probably not getting enough fuel so check that filter and pump. Maybe the float level. That's not the stock fuel pump on there. Pull the line off the pump and crank over... gas should shoooot out with force. Have a bucket ready. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Retard timing will not help. The fuel will still be burning as it goes out the valve transferring way too much heat to the exhaust port and into the coolant. Put it back. Runs good in town but baffs out on the highway. Carb running lean is my guess. Probably not getting enough fuel so check that filter and pump. Maybe the float level. That's not the stock fuel pump on there. Pull the line off the pump and crank over... gas should shoooot out with force. Have a bucket ready. Ive tried that test already and this pump works fine, cause i had a aftermarket one on but the arm broke off, I havent tuned the carb or anything i was planning to do it tommorow cause it seems too accelrated and it smells like its burning rich, also when i drive 20 minutes and turn off the engine it rattles and stumbles like if it was still on. It would still do the same problem even with the aftermarket mechanical pump i had. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 I think its a carb proplem. I would open the top and ck the jets to make sure they didnt back out. The single carb set ups are usually never jetted correctly. Try a weber DGV 38/38 or common 32/36 Why is the fuel line to the pump different? Thats not stock 510? Run ON is what you have common if a open chamber head installed and no anti desieling selinoid.But stock 510 didnt have these and had a 210 cast head. Nice straight car Get a muffler youll get more torq ALSO THAT PORT ON THE MANILFOLD. I DONT THINK YOU WANT THAT TO GO TO THE DISTRIBUTOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PUTTING TO MUCH ADVANCE ON TIMMING plug the hole on the manifold and try running with no vac advance hose. then retime it to say 12-15 at idle. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 I think its a carb proplem. I would open the top and ck the jets to make sure they didnt back out. The single carb set ups are usually never jetted correctly. Try a weber DGV 38/38 or common 32/36 Why is the fuel line to the pump different? Thats not stock 510? Run ON is what you have common if a open chamber head installed and no anti desieling selinoid.But stock 510 didnt have these and had a 210 cast head. Nice straight car Get a muffler youll get more torq ALSO THAT PORT ON THE MANILFOLD. I DONT THINK YOU WANT THAT TO GO TO THE DISTRIBUTOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PUTTING TO MUCH ADVANCE ON TIMMING plug the hole on the manifold and try running with no vac advance hose. then retime it to say 12-15 at idle. The fuel line they had on here was a copper line so i relacep it with a rubber fuel line, thinking i was getting vapor lock due to a plugged vent line. Thanks alot man. It has a little fart cannon on haha Ill try that, Should i plug the vacuum on the dizzy to or just leave it? You mean retime the dizzy or the carb? Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Re time the distributor. You are disconnecting the vacuum advance, so you need to compensate for it. If your not seeing fuel in the filter when you stop, you need to check the float level. After you get the car to stay running, then get your jetting right. Also, you forgot to adjust the valves at tuneup. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 PLUG the manifold hole the distributor you can just disconnect the air line and leave open. But timming to say 12-15 at idle. run the shit out of it. On most sidedraft there is no vaccum port on the carb. 40mm Mikunis I have seen have tham as I have a set and the port is on the carb. This might not solve your proplem but might run abit better. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Thanks guys I'll try that and get back. Hopefully it works :D Quote Link to comment
BillM Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 This is only a guess but to me it sounds like your fuel pump is dying whenever it feels like it. Get a cheap electric fuel pump just to try (something in the 2 PSI range??) . The little "gold cube" Faucett works really well. This is only a guess- I am not real hot on Datsun issues yet. BillM Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 Not sure if 2 lbs would be enough. Pretty sure that the Weber down drafts will take UP TO 4lbs. Hainz, what do these side drafts like? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 Webers want around 3 pounds, just like other carburetors. 4 pounds is too much, 2 is too little. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Hey guys UPDATE!! Sorry i took long, Thank you for the idea, I just put a 2.5-4.5 psi electric fuel pump it helped and works fine. Top filter is full. But i still get the problem. Its not that much as it used to be but i still get it, Now im thinking is a electrical short problem to the ignition system? You guys have any ideas? Its hesitates and then turn of? :( Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 The wires from the ignition module to the coil are really worn and a small gauge wire? Is that a possibilty? That it would get hot from the power in it? I was thinking of swapping the wires. I cant seem to figure it :( Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Electrical short could cause engine shut off. But would it only happen when you step on the gas? Maybe if the wires to the distributor have no play in them, and the movement of the engine is pulling on them. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Electrical short could cause engine shut off. But would it only happen when you step on the gas? Maybe if the wires to the distributor have no play in them, and the movement of the engine is pulling on them. It happens like im crusing in gear doing 35 or pretty much any speed for 15-20. Itll just start stumbling and shut off, then the oil light stay on after engine shuts of like if i was turning it off, i wiggled the wires in back of the igniton switch, the coil and the module, the wires going to the module have alot of play there the original worn wires but i wiggled them and nothing happend to it. Sometimes i leave the engine on and let it warm up just sitting, it stumbles and the rpms go down but go back up, then happens 5 minutes later and then finally stumbling alot and turning off but it is getting fuel from the electric pump. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Is there one main ground for every wire in the fuse box? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 No, not on any Datsun I've ever seen. There is one main ground (Negative battery cable to the engine + to the body). Then one harness ground wire up front. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 No, not on any Datsun I've ever seen. There is one main ground (Negative battery cable to the engine + to the body). Then one harness ground wire up front. I doubt it would be a loose wire, cause right when it turns off ill have to pull over and itll start right up, or ill have to crank it while coasting, im thinking a possible wire is getting hot and cutting the power for a sec causing a stumble. I really dont know haha this is horrible :( Quote Link to comment
Ratty260z Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 If your not having fuel issues and you know that for sure it's your ignition module that's a classic sign of when the module goes out. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 If your not having fuel issues and you know that for sure it's your ignition module that's a classic sign of when the module goes out. But if the module would go out wouldnt it not start again? I havent tested it and i was thinking of taking it to autozone. and plus my matchbox dizzy is normally set with the module facing the engine i dont know if that has anything to do with the heat making it shut off, i checked all the wires they seem to be good though. Quote Link to comment
Ratty260z Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 But if the module would go out wouldnt it not start again? I havent tested it and i was thinking of taking it to autozone. and plus my matchbox dizzy is normally set with the module facing the engine i dont know if that has anything to do with the heat making it shut off, i checked all the wires they seem to be good though. Guess I should have worded that differently :D it's late so bare with me. Basically it's on it's way out heat is not the friend of a small electronical device. A new e12-80 module can be hard to find and expensive but there are other options such as HEI. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Guess I should have worded that differently :D it's late so bare with me. Basically it's on it's way out heat is not the friend of a small electronical device. A new e12-80 module can be hard to find and expensive but there are other options such as HEI. Haha sorry excuse me :D well they have them for sell on eBay for 40 bucks, ima take it tomorrow to autozone to test,I got no more options, I've replaced everything brand new :( Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 right when it turns off ill have to pull over and itll start right up, or ill have to crank it while coasting A loose connection will do that. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Why you put a New fuel pump on there????????????????? Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 A loose connection will do that. I'll check the wires Quote Link to comment
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