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Hey everyone, my name's Russ, currently in the Army stationed in Louisiana and I am new to this forum, but not to the 620. When I was 15 I bought a 78 KC in PA...long story short it was a POS and my father and myself put wayyyyyy too much money into it. It's currently sitting at the house in PA with a rotting frame and slowly rotting body. The engine is pretty decent but needs some valve work as it burns oil pretty bad. Upon returning from deployment, I just purchased a 74 620. I'll get pics up when its daylight tomorrow. Runs great, but needs some electrical work. The headlights only work because the PO bypassed the relays to show that they do indeed work, so I'm going to take the relays to Autozone and get some new ones. Also the brakes are POS and i have to bleed them to try to even get them to work. I would like to do the conversion but it seems to be a little pricey with the kit on ebay, proportioning valve and new MC. Other than that its a great truck. Any advice on mods or anything would be greatly appreciated. I plan on using this as a daily driver to save gas.

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The kits expensive, but with some leg work its easy and a lot less. I got my mc here for $25, calipers for a 300zx for $50 and the brackets from beebani. The rest is cheap enough at auto parts store. I plan on doing the rear too so I didn't put a prop valve in.


Weber makes it fun, but costs milage.


Sway bar is good too.


Part out the other truck or keep it for parts.

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Just fix your drum brakes. They stop well when they are in good condition and properly adjusted. 90% of them are not adjusted right, so people complain they don't work good.


For the headlights, there is One relay. If you have more than that, someone substantially changed the wiring.

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thanks for the welcome guys. yeah i plan on adjusting and bleeding the brakes over the weekend. once i get that tackled and the headlights/4 ways working, then i can actually drive it to work and such. few more questions for you datsun guru's...i saw somewhere on here that the rear of a 720 will fit on the 620, is this true? and will a gauge cluster from a 78 or so directly replace the original 74 one? i would like the newer one solely for the white gauge cluster overlays sold on ebay, and when i get the truck the PO gave me two extras, along with a bunch of random parts and the original L18 that apparently had head problems.


that does sound a lot cheaper, and a buddy of mine has connections with nissan so he said i can get parts pretty cheap. i would like to do the rears as well, but i have read that that involves some machining and i havent looked into exactly how much. thanks again for all the advice.

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i have read that that involves some machining




sorry, meant the differential. i know the gearing up till 79 was 4.88, then i believe it dropped to 4.11?


Most trucks came with 4.375, 78 and 79 could have 4.11. The earlier trucks and probably your 73 came with 4.88 you would have to pull the diff to be sure.

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2eDeYe' date='06 January 2012 - 09:30 AM' timestamp='1325863843' post='606288']





Most trucks came with 4.375, 78 and 79 could have 4.11. The earlier trucks and probably your 73 came with 4.88 you would have to pull the diff to be sure.


Ok thanks. Yeah there's a listing on eBay for rear discs and in the description it says something has to be cut off or machines or something

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Cool 620 man, and welcome..


As far as disc conversion, be aware that beebani's requires 15" or larger wheels. Mklotz does one that will accept 14's. If you do just the fronts you will notice great improvement with the rear drums properly adjusted and functioning well. I did the beebani conversion on my 77, and even though I bought the rear brackets, I never used them. Plus, there's no fussing over the parking brake if you leave the rear stock.


My .02 ;)

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2eDeYe' date='06 January 2012 - 07:30 AM' timestamp='1325863843' post='606288']





Most trucks came with 4.375, 78 and 79 could have 4.11. The earlier trucks and probably your 73 came with 4.88 you would have to pull the diff to be sure.


I know Doug says the early 620s had 4.88s but maybe someone swapped his. AFAIK only the J13 520/521 came with 4.88s. All 620 L16 standards were 4.375, L16 autos were 4.625. All L18 and L20B were 4.375 except the '79 4 and 5 speed standards which were 4.11

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hey thanks for all the great info guys. as far as the rear disc conversion, im just gonna stick with the front. i saw mklotz kit and i think thats better for me right now because it doesnt involve getting new rims and tires (the tires on there now are almsot brand new) so it'll be cheaper in the long run.

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Here's some pics of the interior. The drivers side is only weak where the cross member goes for the seat. i sanded and roughed both sides up, then sprayed it with some rustoleum bed liner. i did the back of the cab up till right under the window to protect it and to deaden the sound a little bit- dont know how much that'll help, but it was worth a shot.












Here's a picture of the engine bay. you can see the wiring mess the PO left me with. gonna try to tackle that this weekend




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