DattoDime70 Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 I have a 1970 datsun 510 and for the last two weeks since I got the timing chain redone.It's been turning off and loosing power while I'm cruising! It stumbles like if it ran out of gas! Like the other day I was on the freeway 5th gear going 65 and the power cuts and no gas going in! So I pull over and restart again and it's good for another mile or so. So I thought it was a vapor lock problem or fuel. So I replaced the filters,fuel line,and pump and it's still doing it. Now I'm thinking it's a spark problem. I have a l16 with a matchbox distributor electric ignition. It's has a ballast resistor and I just had replaced the ignition coil to a new 79 200sx coil. And took it for a test drive and it still did it. When I got home the coil was warm but the resistor was really hot!! What you think I should do? I'm almost ready to give up. Please help :( Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 If that is an EI coil, dont run the ballast resistor. Just tie the Black/white in with the Black/blue or Black/green. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted December 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 I'll give it a try right but the thing is the wires are every where and not in use. Should I find the black/blue or green? Cause the two wires coming out of the ignition module of the distributor is both power. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 been turning off and loosing power while I'm cruising! It stumbles like if it ran out of gas! Like the other day I was on the freeway 5th gear going 65 and the power cuts and no gas going in! This may be a fuel problem OR an electrical problem, which can also "feel" like a gas flow problem. Causes include (amount others): * A loose electrical connection on the coil or distributor * A small amount of Water in the fuel bowl Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted December 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 It does feel like if it was a gas flow problem but I changed and redone the pump,lines.and filter Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 I'll give it a try right but the thing is the wires are every where and not in use. Should I find the black/blue or green? Cause the two wires coming out of the ignition module of the distributor is both power. Out of the module you have Black/white, and blue. Separately you should have a bundle of wires near the coil of black/white black/green black/blue and I think black (maybe black/red...). You should have Both Black/whites and Black/blue all tied together going to the +side of the coil. The blue from the module should go to the Negative of the coil. Black/green is just a splice off of Black/blue (they are the same wire). Also, make sure that you run a ground cable on your matchbox. Run a ground strap from the body of the Dizzy to the body of the car. Without doing this, it is possible to get some odd behavior from your car. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 I'll give it a try right but the thing is the wires are every where and not in use. Should I find the black/blue or green? Cause the two wires coming out of the ignition module of the distributor is both power. No, it might seen that way but it isn't. There is 12 volts on the B terminal but the C terminal on the module is at ground potential except when the magnetic pickup inside signals it to 'fire'. This is the correct way to wire the matchbox. The START wire and the ignition ON wire from the ignition key can be spliced together and connected to the + on the coil AND the B terminal on the module. The C terminal goes only to the coil - terminal. No ballast is needed and because the EI system draws more power through it, it will overheat the ballast. The one you have is likely very stressed out. It may be intermittent when it gets hot on the highway. Make sure you have the EI coil and not the stock one. If you have the stock coil then the ballast must be used. . Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 The current draw is dependent on the coil, not on the EI unit. * If you use a stock 510 coil & ballast resistor, it will draw stock current * If you use EI coil, it will draw more current. In this case do not use the ballast resistor. The good news is that Datsun matchbox EI can handle the higher current draw of the hot EI coil. Either way, it can handle it. If using the EI coil, you can (optionally) gap your plugs wider as per the EI specs (say for 1979 510). Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted December 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 Okay I will try it and get back right now. I understand it Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted December 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 I've connected it with out the resistor! Should I go for a test drive? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 Sure. It should run. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted December 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 it was running smooth I took it on the slow lane and it startted stuggle to stay on and turned off once. The coil is warm. Should I still be concern if the problem should keep happening? What should I do? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 when you replaced the orginal 510 coil with a 79200sx coil it will draw more current as this new coil is .7 ohms compared to the old 1.6 ohm coil. But in thoery it still should have worked. as the newer coil will handle this. when you put the chain back on your positive you go the distrubutor spindal correct at Top Dead Center? 11.28 is the spindal position @ tdc or watch the whole video from beginning or chapter 1 the 1st few minutes and part 6 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 it was running smooth I took it on the slow lane and it startted stuggle to stay on and turned off once. The coil is warm. Should I still be concern if the problem should keep happening? What should I do? Because the EI module has to ground the coil through it, be sure the module itself is firmly grounded to the dizzy body and the dizzy body firmly grounded to the timing cover. Some EI dizzys have a separate ground lug on the side you can run a ground wire to. Check that all wires are firmly connected to their terminals. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted December 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 The distributor seems to be loose if I shake it left to right? And I see a lug on the left side! The way I wired the coil is white and black from the module(or is it in the harness?) With the black/blue wire with the+ and c from the module to the - of the coil. Ughh to be honest I'm frustrated and confused. I need a helping hand on someone that knows it or step by step. :( Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 Run a separate ground wire from the block or head or to a bolt on the timing cover nearby. Find out what is causing the dizzy to be loose. It should be firmly mounted. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 The distributor seems to be loose if I shake it left to right? And I see a lug on the left side! The way I wired the coil is white and black from the module(or is it in the harness?) With the black/blue wire with the+ and c from the module to the - of the coil. Ughh to be honest I'm frustrated and confused. I need a helping hand on someone that knows it or step by step. :( The "c" is correct. You should have a black/blue which you found along with a black/white from the harness. You should also have a Black/white from the module. This is also the b wire. Tie the black/blue and black/white from the harness together, and also the black/white from the module. These will go to the positive. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted December 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 Ohhhh, thank you I understand now :D may I ask what are the wires from the harness?.with the wires setup like that should it be working fine? And should I know anything else? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 Ohhhh, thank you I understand now :D may I ask what are the wires from the harness?.with the wires setup like that should it be working fine? And should I know anything else? The "c" is correct. You should have a black/blue which you found along with a black/white from the harness. You should also have a Black/white from the module. This is also the b wire. Tie the black/blue and black/white from the harness together, and also the black/white from the module. These will go to the positive. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted December 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 I meant what are the black/blue wire and the white/ black functions? Where are coming conected to? Sorry for writing the question wrong Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 Black/blue is 12v power designed to give hotter spark (skips the ballast resistor in stock application) only active during start. Black/white is 12v ignition power (goes through ballast resistor in stock application) this is what powers the coil. I dont have the manual in front of me so I am not sure if the Black/white has power while starting, If it does, Black/blue would not be required. But leave it for now. Does this help? Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 I would be willing to bet that this is not a spark/dizzy related problem, however it does sound like there might be a wiring problem there too. I have my bet on a clogged fuel line. I think that it is running out of fuel due to a clogged metal fuel line somewhere in the system. Or possibly a weak fuel pump. Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted December 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 Black/blue is 12v power designed to give hotter spark (skips the ballast resistor in stock application) only active during start. Black/white is 12v ignition power (goes through ballast resistor in stock application) this is what powers the coil. I dont have the manual in front of me so I am not sure if the Black/white has power while starting, If it does, Black/blue would not be required. But leave it for now. Does this help? yes it does thank you so much!! I will update tomorrow on how It works :) Quote Link to comment
DattoDime70 Posted December 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 I would be willing to bet that this is not a spark/dizzy related problem, however it does sound like there might be a wiring problem there too. I have my bet on a clogged fuel line. I think that it is running out of fuel due to a clogged metal fuel line somewhere in the system. Or possibly a weak fuel pump. I replaced the pump and lines and filter other than that probably a clog in the tank but I really have my thoughts on the ignition Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 I replaced the pump and lines and filter other than that probably a clog in the tank but I really have my thoughts on the ignition Could also be your tank isnt clean and your jets keep clogging. Quote Link to comment
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