FiveSeventyZee Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 I just got my dime running after a month and a half of sitting due to a blown head gasket (I work and go to school full time) but it still smokes out the tailpipes. I'm guessing it's burning out the oil and crap that I couldn't clean out of the cylinders as a result of the blown gasket. are there any break in procedures I should follow or just drive it? I need the smoke to go away because I have to clear a fix it ticket from excessive smoke. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 Smoke: Blue is burning oil White is usually a blown gasket and that's coolant steam. Black is over rich mixture of fuel. So if this was blowing blue smoke all the time before you changed the gasket then I doubt if it's fixed. If it was blowing white 'smoke' and you got a ticket for that, you likely have fixed the problem. It may take a few minutes to burn off any oil and coolant left in the cylinders and combustion chamber. There is no break in procedure for a head gasket. There are however proper procedures for installing and tightening the head. Did you begin tightening in the middle of the head and work your way to the front and back? Quote Link to comment
stilltwisted Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 does it need to pass a smog test to sign off the excessive smoke ticket ?? cause you could change to full synthetic oil like Mobil one ,,it will still burn oil and stink on acceleration ,, but there arent any organic solids to burn so no real smoke,,the exhaust looks like fuel vapor ,,it will trick the cops at idle ,,and if they are standing right behind it at part throttle it will effect there eyes / nose ,, but no visible smoke ps this is just a band-aid ,,if the ring are badly warn and smoke it need a rebuild Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 my naps motor smoked like a mofo for a good 20 minutes after i got done with the head gasket on it. After that it was fine. Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 yeah it was white before. I know it was the head gasket. and the smoke now is just barely visible white/grey smoke. I think I just need to run it. I only had it on for a few seconds because I was just trying to start it and I had other things to do so I just started it let it idle for a sec then I killed it Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 if you run a water line make sure the intake upper and esp the lower washer bolts are tite. soemtimes they can suck water into the intake Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Hainz, I don't think the EFI had water warmed intakes. Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 sometimes water gets into the muffler when the head gasket blows. Once you fix it the water in the muffler vaporizes and steams for a while after. could be that? Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 how long should I live with the smoke before I question if I got it or not? I took it for a short spin today. really just around the block. maybe 2-3 minutes. and it still smokes a lot. but only under acceleration and sometimes engine braking. at idle it really doesn't do anything Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 How about run it a half hr till the temp gauge levels out then tells us. Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 just at idle? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 just at idle.?????????????? lets not make this hard Just run it. rev it up I dont care but run it so the stat opens and you see what your temp is so you can tell if the head gasket is sealed. YOU NEED TO PRESSURE IT UP. so you seee if it leaks or not. Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 well I let it idle for about 30 min but nothing changed so I took it on a drive for about 30 min of mostly curvy back roads and some freeway. it's all gone now. on a side note I am experiencing some run on now. I'm guessing because of the closed chamber head? I put 89 in it instead of the 87 I used to run. should that help? should I put 91? or am I just wasting my money? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 More info. I assumed it was you 280 motor before. So this is a510 then? L20B or what? When you changed the h/g did you put the peanut head on then, (as you have just mentioned it) or did you have it on before? If you did just put it on, there will be an increase in compression. You can try a higher octane fuel or back the timing off slightly, or both. For best performance and economy you want as much ignition advance possible, but just short of pinging. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 run on? Try retimming it with a light and adjust the mixture setting and see what happens.try aaround 10BTDC I have run closed chamber heads before and I run regular in them 87. My daily driver has a open champer U67 and I have to run 91 to stop the run on. as most webers dont have the anti desiel selinoid. The later stock Hitachis did Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 If you run SU's you get to learn how to clutch-kill over time. When the issues are gone, IE a new carb setup that doesn't have an issue... you blow your own mind not having to kill it with the clutch, haha! Make sure your valves are adjusted properly as well. I AM assuming you did this when you put it back together, ya? Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 yeah it's my L18 in the dime. sorry. my 240 doesn't have an L-series. and I just put the closed chamber a87 head on. I'll try to change the timing and see where we get. I do have a weber on it so no anti dieseling valve but I've just been clutching it today to kill it it's not too bad. I just never had to do this before with my open chamber u67 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 adjust the timming. I have a 38/38 and what I do is when i turn the key off I gently push on the pedal to open up the carb and the vaccum loss is enought to kill it. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 Stock L18 with closed chamber head is 9 to 1 compression. Quote Link to comment
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