FiveSeventyZee Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Was adjusting the valves on my new head while installing it when I noticed my cam has a stamp on it with the numbers 48 and 22. I thought this was strange because I could have sworn my other 2 (old ones) had no numbers just the word JAPAN on them. I went and looked and sure enough no numbers. so my question is, what is this cam and should I be assuming it has a .480 lift and a 220 degree duration? is that stock? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Take some digital calipers and measure a cam lobe...lash pads look stock? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Was adjusting the valves on my new head while installing it when I noticed my cam has a stamp on it with the numbers 48 and 22. I thought this was strange because I could have sworn my other 2 (old ones) had no numbers just the word JAPAN on them. I went and looked and sure enough no numbers. so my question is, what is this cam and should I be assuming it has a .480 lift and a 220 degree duration? is that stock? Stok L20B duration is 248 so not that. Numbers on back end or embossed along the side? How about a picture? Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 embossed on the side. I'll get a pic later when I get home. where are the lash pads and what should stock look like? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Lash pads sit in the valve spring retainer...below rocker (not shown) These are non stock. There are various sizes (thickness).... which is relative to cam/lift Quote Link to comment
goonfan Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 If it's indeed some mystery cam you'll most likely have to get the specs yourself. But a degree wheel from Summit and a decent quality dial indicator with a base, and hit up google and your set. This is provided you care to know. If you plan any mods in the future it will help make the right choices. If you plan to do serious mods such as headwork or raising the compression then it's a must. Good way to learn either way. Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 I've got some pics I can post later but I ran into a problem after I got everything almost done and ready to attempt to start. my dad was refilling the fluids and while filling the coolant it started leaking out between the head and the block. I wasn't there to see it but he said it was dripping more out of the passenger side. we did just change the head gasket that was the whole reason why I had to readjust the valves. I know I was careful not to get anything between the head and the block but maybe something got by me and there's something there? right now my number one suspect is that the head bolts might not be tight enough. I tightened them to 44 ft lbs but my torque wrench seems like it clicks WAY before I feel like things are tight enough. this is only the 2nd time of used it and the last time was on my z which is not in driving condition and I've never used another torque wrench so I have nothing to compare it to. I was gonna go to kragen and get a torque wrench on loaner and see if it goes tighter. does that seem like it could cause this leak? Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 Did you measure the block for warpage? Assuming you checked out the "new" head. I've never seen a l block warped enough to leak but there is a first time for everything Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 no I didn't check the block. I did think about that but it really never seemed like it got that hot. the only way I knew it overheated was because I tested for a blown head gasket due to tailpipe smoke. the gauge did go past the middle once but it never pegged. then again it's a 40 year old sensor. could that really warp the block? Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 I was just wondering, due diligence yada yada, your probably on the right track and its not torqued enough. Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 but could it being too loose cause this? the head doesnt move but I think it's hardly tightened past that.... Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 Yep, I did the same thing when I put my L motor together, all together and coolant coming out between head and block, cleaned and re torqued it - all better. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 The head is more likely to warp. Too early to worry about this yet. First: Did you make sure the dowels were in the block when installing the head? The dowels look like very short lengths of 1/2 pipe that sit in two recesses in the block and the head aligns and fits down over them. If even one is missing the head will not be aligned properly over the coolant holes. Block threads must be scrupulously clean. Rust, dirt or gasket material will cause the bolt to reach maximum torque yet not be clamping the head properly. I have an old head bolt that I run a grinder down the length of the threads on two sides. I wipe a little grease in the grooves. When torqued into the block the threads push the crap out ahead of it and the grease holds it when removed. Definitely check the torque. 40 lbs isn't enough. 60 would be better and in at least two stages and in this order. RAD 7-8 3-4 1-2 5-6 9-10 Tighten to 20 lbs in the sequence below, then 40lbs in sequence and a final 60lbs. Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 yeah the dowels are in, i checked. Im not quite sure what you're describing about running a grinder down the threads, are you making like a flat spot? so it's kind of like a tap? do you have pics? oh and here are the pics of the cam and lash pads. the one of the cam stamp is upsidedown because thats where the cam is rotated right now. but you can still read it Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 I'm gonna say aftermarket. Stock cams weren't marked that way, they'd have "NISSAN" and A87, U20, 210, or some other 3-digit casting number on them. Could still be stock specs, impossible to say without measurements and a degree wheel. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 Check the cam face on left above and compare to face on bottom right. Looks like the top one may have been reground to increase lift.. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 (edited) Looks like stock pads, springs and retainers... EDIT They are...stock pads, springs and retainers... Edited October 14, 2011 by Sealik Quote Link to comment
goonfan Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 Degree wheel FTW! http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Degree-Wheels/ The Lunati kit w/ a dial indicator looks decent at first glance. Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 well i don't plan on doing any modifications to this engine really, im just trying to get it back together and i saw the casting. it's really just curiosity, i dont necessarily need to know what it is so i dont think i'll be getting a degree wheel Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 k I got a torque wrench on kragens loaner and on my first stage of torquing (25ft lbs it was the lowest setting) the bolts went in probably one full rotation each. so my guess is they were at like 12 lbs and my torque wrench is defective. I know things go wrong sometimes but dang, I never thought I would et a defective tool. especially from a name brand like craftsman. at least they have lifetime warranties. haha. anyways I refilled with water to test and the leak is gone so it looks like I'm back on track. thanks guys. ps I torqued to 55 because in my research it seems almost every other person says 60 then 45 so I went middle ish Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 craftsman torque wrench warranty is only a year I think Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 waaaahhhh! well I've had it since December it was a Christmas present haha cuz that's how I roll. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Like SEALIK said, stock lash pads. if lash pads are counter sunk then its stock!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Being that the cam has some unknown markings on it, I would measure it. Who knows...maybe it has been reground..?????..and with the stock pads... not good. If you don't have any digital calipers...one way to check the geometry would be to mark the rocker (with a felt pen) and turn the motor over by hand. Check the wipe pattern. See the black that's left on the edges of the rocker?.....Means the cam lobe is centered on rocker....good I would also of gone a tad more on the head bolt torque Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 k I got a torque wrench on kragens loaner and on my first stage of torquing (25ft lbs it was the lowest setting) the bolts went in probably one full rotation each. so my guess is they were at like 12 lbs and my torque wrench is defective. I know things go wrong sometimes but dang, I never thought I would et a defective tool. especially from a name brand like craftsman. at least they have lifetime warranties. haha. anyways I refilled with water to test and the leak is gone so it looks like I'm back on track. thanks guys. ps I torqued to 55 because in my research it seems almost every other person says 60 then 45 so I went middle ish Your Craftsman torque wrench only carries a 90 day warranty. Quote Link to comment
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