josh_t Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 so i put the new plug wires on debbie today and she still will only run on 2 cylinders: 1 and 3. i checked the dwell, plug gap, firing order, swapped a good coil on it, cleaned the inside of the cap and the rotor. timing is at 10 degrees. and the compression is the same on all cylinders. the only questionable thing is the condenser and idk if it would cause it to only run on half the cylinders. Quote Link to comment
JAS Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 If an automatic, check the vacuum modulator, it will make drown out the closest cylinders with tranny oil if it is leaking by... Will smoke and act up real bad. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 it isnt putting out any smoke, but i will check that tomorrow. and its running on 1 and 3 and 3 is one of the two you are referring to. i checked which ones are firing with my timing light. Quote Link to comment
hitch Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 So with the timing light, you can confirm no spark on cyl 2 and 4? Are you running points? I'd bet it is that performance coil you talked about a couple months ago. Did it ever run smooth on all four since you've had it? Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 So with the timing light, you can confirm no spark on cyl 2 and 4? Are you running points? I'd bet it is that performance coil you talked about a couple months ago. Did it ever run smooth on all four since you've had it? yes yes and yes. it actually was slightly better when i put the new coil on. and no change when i put the old coil on today. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Check to see if the distributor shaft will wobble sideways. The two lobes #1 and #3 may not be closing the gap (to charge the coil) or not opening the gap on the points to discharge the coil. Check the point gap when the #1 and #3 lobes are opening the points. Check that the points are closing too. The coil may be partly at fault but it has to be the points. The coil can't decide on it's own to not fire #1 and #3. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 I was thinking it had to be something with the points or maybe the condenser. I remember checking the play in the shaft when had the distributor off a few weeks ago. It had the same problem before i pulled it off. The condenser does have a part of the insulation on the wire missing but i made sure it wouldnt touch metal. I'll wrap it with electrical tape tomorrow. I cant afford a new one at the moment. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 No spark on #1 and #3 could also be bad wires, trade them around and see if the problem moves. There could also be a crack or carbon tracking on the rotor or the underside of the cap. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 the wires are brand new. and the old ones did this too same when i switch it all around. i'll check for tracks tomorrow. i hope thats not the case cuz i'm flat broke. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 hmm. i was reading around and if i'm correct, when the magnetic field collapses from the points opening, that causes a large voltage spike up to a couple hundred volts. that could jump from the condenser wire that has missing insulation to the body of the distributor. i'll definitely tape that tomorrow as my first test of the day. i hope it hasnt somehow damaged the condenser. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Again, how does the condenser know to only do that on the #1 and $3???? Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 idk. the rotor is over the condenser on 2 and 4 so maybe it has something to do with it. just brainstormin until i get to work on it again tomorrow. it has to be some kind of short. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 i now have reasonable suspicion that it could be something in the primary circuit between the coil and distributor. i wiggled the wire thats on the side of the distributor while it was running and it quit. i pulled it all the way of and put it back on and it wont start at all. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 If you have a performance coil back on there ( Which I know you said you swapped if for a know "good" one ,,,) make sure you have the correct matching coil resistor ( if yours is external ) ,,, and if you have an external resitor that did not match up to the performance coil ,.,, I would highly suggest checking the condition of that coil resistor ! If you have an external coil resistor ,,, test ohm's ,,, and put a different "known good" one on there to verify ! ,,, if not then that's my luck ,,, I have the pillow-block style on my Z-car ,,, I pulled off , and looked through the back ( depending on manufacturer ) ,,, <--- some allow ,,, some do not ! I would be highly suspicious if the pillow block bedding is cracked ( if that is your style ) Check the condition of the wires/wiring inside the cap ,,, grounding out ? or crossfiring ? I have seen some wires that have rubbed through on the body inside of the distributor as a result of being too long/aftermarket ,,, and wearing through the wiring insulation causing weird stuff... Run a new "Jumper" wire from the coil to distributor to verify ? Test all wiring to distributor/coil ,,, to verify all hot wires are truly hot ,, :) Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 i have been doin that and i checked valve lash to make sure it was all ok. and it was. they are all at .014-.015 the compression is all the same. i set the dwell at .022 since they have a tiny bit of pitting/peaking, which makes me think maybe a bad condenser. the condenser isnt shorting out. when the points are open the primary circuit has no continuity. the shaft has no play. the plugs and wires are new. i checked for vacuum leaks. there arent any. and the grommet that the primary wire plugs into had lots of rust on the screw causing it to be vary intermittent with continuity. i cleaned that and it still has like 9 ohms resistance. that should be as close to 0 as possible but i can't find a new screw that i can replace it with. i have a large exhaust leak at the hole where the egr tube used to go. i'm going to block it and it should help me know how its running a little better. i have to find a spare valve stem for one tire. i was pumping it up cuz it was low and i go to pull the pump off and it takes the stem with it. urrgh. and its so muggy out there. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 What coil are you running on it as of right now as you read this friend ? is it a factory datto approved coil ? Have you changed resistors since testing out a higher voltage coil at any point in interchanging of coils from performance to stock/ know good coil ? Good on ruling out valves ,,, if it were them I think you would know it right away ;) A Condensor works or it doesn't (as stated by datzenmike above as I see now) ,,, no 2 cylinder stuff ,,, that is ruled out for sure like you said ,,, :) ,,, never said the condensor was shorting out ;) ,,, the wiring inside or connectings inside the distributor If you have 9ohms of resistance of continuity ,,, but suppose to be close to 0-ohms (as possible) ,,, that tells us what grasshopper ? Check vacuum leaks ,,, ok cool ,,, hows fuel pressure ? What do the fuel filters look like ? changed them lately ? using good clean gas ? If your points are pitted/peaking that badly ( so one can see ) you should really replace them instead of counting them as ok to re-adjust ,,, if you have the money that is :D datzenmike sometimes says the jets at the bottom of the carb get clogged up ? ( IDK never owned one of these or ran that style of carb for a matter of fact ) Pull a spare valve stem outta any extra/trash ,,, tire/rim ya got :lol: Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 i am running the stock coil. the resistor is the stock one that has always been on it and it has 1.5 ohms like it is supposed to. i checked the wires and everything inside the distributor. the pressure is fine. filter is fine. the bowl is full to the dot on the glass where it should be. i just got the gas from the station yesterday. i cant afford the points at the moment. but i am not buyin new ones when i can afford them. its not being driven right now so i'm just goin to save up some money for a matchbox distributor. the carb was cleaned just prior to running it this time. i have a valve stem but now i cant get the bead loose on the tire. i used an old trick i use a lot and it usually is successful. i take a really long piece of wood like a 2x6 and i get a short piece of wood and use the frame of a heavy truck. the frame is the fulcrum the short piece of wood is transmitting the load from the bead and obviously i am the force. it wont budge this time. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 damn things on the ground now. fell off the jack cuz the parking brake was too loose. and i dont have another jack until my dad gets home. so its on the ground out of gas and it still wont run right. i'm fucking sick of that piece of shit. i wish i would have gotten a ford. Quote Link to comment
JAS Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 Thats rich, someone that cant fix a datsun wants a ford??? Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 hell yes. never had a problem i cant fix on a ford. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 Give it a days rest on the b210 dude ,,, then hit it again ,,, I am Ford Fan on some things :lol: ... Chebby Fan too on some thinga ,,, Lets face it ,,, they are both shit ,,, but the shit you know how to fix is always best :lol: Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 lol. i'm fine now. i stopped workin on it at 6. its just annoying that i get sick of one thing not working like the misfire issue so i take a little break and do something easy like pump up my tires cuz they are a little low. and then i have to go into this big ordeal over breaking the bead and me being dumb and not chocking the wheels and using jack stands. and it falls off the jack not once but twice. lol. man i feel stupid. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 (edited) Thats rich, someone that cant fix a datsun wants a ford??? Sure. If it's what he's familiar with, why not? Couldn't be the wires that I gave you. I had them on my car for a day before I swapped them around to the set I have now. They don't even have 3 miles on them. It's gotta be distributor related. Edited September 23, 2011 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 oh trust me i know its not the wires. i have a couple questionable things on the distributor already. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 i checked which ones are firing with my timing light. Not good enough. I don't trust a timing light for this... call me old fashioned but I want to see that there is no spark. Pull the plug wires off and stick a plug in the end and lay on the grounded valve cover. Now crank it over and look for spark. Now swap wires 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 and try again. This will show spark or no spark and also if the two wires are bad. Take a look inside the cap are the contacts missing on #1 and #4??? The more I think about it the more it seems impossible that the points can be the cause.. Quote Link to comment
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