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Running on 2 cylinders


josh_t

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Not good enough. I don't trust a timing light for this... call me old fashioned but I want to see that there is no spark. Pull the plug wires off and stick a plug in the end and lay on the grounded valve cover. Now crank it over and look for spark. Now swap wires 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 and try again. This will show spark or no spark and also if the two wires are bad.

 

Take a look inside the cap are the contacts missing on #1 and #4???

 

The more I think about it the more it seems impossible that the points can be the cause..

 

i am almost positive that you are right about it not being good enough. i put my light on the 1st plug one time today and it wasnt lighting. i'll go do that tomorrow. but the plugs and wires are brand new. the wires i just got two days ago.

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You said you had the dizzy out...

Shure its not 1 or 2 teeth off how much adjustment do you have on the pedistle?

 

If it was off 1 or 2 teeth it would be off and affect all cylinders.

 

 

What kinda plugs you runnin broseph?

 

Interesting question. H-m-m-m if the electrodes were bent and touching (grounded) on 1 and 4, the timing light might not show the wire firing. Maybe pull the plugs and inspect/or swap with known good ones. Maybe they were dropped and the electrodes are touching.

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i didnt drop them. but the gap might be too big. i think i went with .040 when i put them in to see how it would run when i first got them. it ran almost perfect then. this is a new problem.

 

 

EDIT: i take that back, i KNOW the gap is too big. and they are ngk r bpr5es.

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hell yes. never had a problem i cant fix on a ford.

 

All you need to fix Fords is different sized hammers! (sez the retired Ford Tech)

 

Check you don't have your dist cap 180 out. The notch that lines it up will lift one side and the spark won't jump (been there, did that in my younger days)

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0.032 for points. Try re-gaping them. I'll shit if it's that.:poop: :mellow:

 

to be quite honest i probably would too. i have a feeling its something simple that i did early on when replacing something as a result of me thinking too hard and experimenting.

 

All you need to fix Fords is different sized hammers! (sez the retired Ford Tech)

 

Check you don't have your dist cap 180 out. The notch that lines it up will lift one side and the spark won't jump (been there, did that in my younger days)

 

i checked that. i checked a few very obvious things like the cap being on the right way, the wires not being on snug. timing being totally off, etc.

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I had a real busy day today, so i didnt get to do anything but get that tire back to working order. Just got that done. I'll probably work on the car most of tomorrow, but i cant see how it runs since i ran it out of gas yesterday. I'm a high school senior who cant find a job, if that makes any of this make any more sense. I managed to find enough for one gallon of gas the other day, and thats all i had. It either got used or it leaked out. Towards the end of it running, the short section of hose leading from the metal lines that snake around the valve cover to the carb started spraying.

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nice happy update. idk what i did but i took the cap off and laid the coil wire on the thermostat housing and turned the ignition on and then i turned the motor by the fan cuz all the plugs were out. i got a really nice, at least and 1/8" spark from the wire. it was really bright and blue and orange. so then i put the cap back on and did the same thing except the plugs were on the housing. i got noticeably less spark from 2 and 4 compared to 1 and 3, and 1 and 3 had noticeably dirtier plugs. so i'm assuming that would mean cap and rotor time?

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Not good enough. I don't trust a timing light for this... call me old fashioned but I want to see that there is no spark. Pull the plug wires off and stick a plug in the end and lay on the grounded valve cover. Now crank it over and look for spark. Now swap wires 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 and try again. This will show spark or no spark and also if the two wires are bad.

 

Take a look inside the cap are the contacts missing on #1 and #4???

 

The more I think about it the more it seems impossible that the points can be the cause..

 

Said this 2 days ago....

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i didnt use the timing light. the plugs were out of the head and on the thermostat housing. i cant ground it to the valve cover cuz its painted. and all the contacts in the cap are clean and there. and i did some swapping. this was all after i regapped to .032 2 and 4 were sparking but noticeably weaker than 1 and 3. 2 was weaker than 4.

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lulz. Ground to the valve cover.... mike is thinking L series again.

 

 

 

This is an odd problem. The strange thing is, I think we've covered about every area unsure.gif

 

 

Out of curiosity, what plugs do you have?

Edited by metalmonkey47
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hell no dude. i cant let you do that. i'll find some stuff to sell. or at least i could fix your kawasaki. there is no way i'm gonna willingly freeload. even if its offered.

 

reps for being a modest cool.gif

 

Either way, we're gonna have to make sure this thing is road worthy soon.

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