spec-bre Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Hello from Indiana, Guy's I just picked up a 1977 b210 fastback that one of the previous owners tried to do a smog delete and now the car will not run. If you shoot starter fluid into the carb it will fire up and die the first couple tries then when it fires up and runs it goes screaming like it's wide open and the only way to calm the accel is to shut it off or put you palm over the mouth of the carb and choke the air flow down. I feel it is a vacume issue but have know idea where to start. can anyone show me some close up pics of their smog delete carb or tell me what I deed to plug or do to fix the issue. i do not have any of the old smog equipment so going back is not an option. thanks for any help!!! Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 That's easy. Start by capping off all of your vacuum lines from the carb and manifold. Do you plan on removing all of the emissions equipment? Or reverting it back to stock? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 + 1. The previous owner likely opened up a vacuum leak when he removed a part. Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 If it still has this cluster check the red circles for leaks. The mounting studs need to be plugged also being the 3 studs/bolts that hold it together. Like the circled upper left one. If the cluster is missing check these circled items. Again the 3 circled with an x are the bolt holes that need to be plugged also. Click on image to enlarge. Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 All plugged up. Half ass at the moment. Quote Link to comment
spec-bre Posted September 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 That's easy. Start by capping off all of your vacuum lines from the carb and manifold. Do you plan on removing all of the emissions equipment? Or reverting it back to stock? It will not be returned to stock. Indiana does not do smog testing and I have none of the removed emissions items. Quote Link to comment
spec-bre Posted September 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 Sorry so late on a reply and I do appreciate the input and photos. Today I removed the Carb, Intake, and Exhaust mani to get a better look at what I was dealing with. Once all was removed I started by making a plate to cover the ports where the EGR assembly was, made a gasket and bolted it up. Then I removed the pipe from the exhaust manifold that went to the bottom of the EGR, cut and removed the pipe out of the threaded "bung" and ran a 5/8-18 tap through it and screwed in a bolt with a bit of copper sealant and locked all that back down. I also wired the little plate in the exhaust that allows exhaust gasses to hit the plate between the intake and exhaust closed so it is diverting directly out the exhaust and not past the intake. Once all was cleaned and ready to go back together I did just that. One of my many concerns is the guy I bought the car off of messed with the carb to try and get it running and now all the base settings are off. Before with a bit of either when it fired up it went screaming up in "R's" and now after re-assembly and all open ports capped it will (with a shot of either) fire up and die right away. No more crazy rapid assel but also still not running. I have no idea what lines on the carb go where or should go and it sits now like I got with only the two things I have done so I am needing more info on what to cap, what to run and where. I am attaching some pics I took with my cell phone and hope the pics are good enough to see what might be wrong. The EGR cover plate The best I can do for a pic of the caped off EGR exhaust port Drivers side view of carb View from front Passenger side Back I know my pre smog L-series fairly well but this is my first A-series + dealing with smog eCRAPment so I do appreciate any help. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11, 2011 Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 Check the secondary is fully closed. If it revs like that for no reason it's partly open. Quote Link to comment
spec-bre Posted September 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 Check the secondary is fully closed. If it revs like that for no reason it's partly open. Will do but it will not rev at all now. It will fire with a shot of either then die. No throttle response at all. Quote Link to comment
B210GX Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Do you have fuel to the carb? Also some of those mounting holes in the intake. (where emissions have been removed) did go through to the intake. not all but some. anti deisel solenoid not working? remove the slide to see if thats the cause. back up... I see that there is no wire coming from it. Remove that solenoid, go figure Quote Link to comment
spec-bre Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Do you have fuel to the carb? Also some of those mounting holes in the intake. (where emissions have been removed) did go through to the intake. not all but some. anti deisel solenoid not working? remove the slide to see if thats the cause. back up... I see that there is no wire coming from it. Remove that solenoid, go figure There is fuel in the sight glass. Carb has been removed and re installed and it fills quickly after first attempt at starting. I feel it is nothing with fuel delivery but all carb. I pulled the carb apart last night and it was a mess. What wasn't coated in a film of black nasty crud was oxidized. The accel pump boot had been tore for awhile now and it looked like it had gotten some moisture in it and was not moving freely, the jets had considerable oxidation along with most of the linkage was caked in ages of dirt and road grim. Fully disassembled and soaking in carb cleaner for the night I will get to it in a day or so and keep this thread updated. Thanks for the replys and if you guy's see any other issues in my pics or come up with any other ideas toss them at me. Will I need to plug the hole where the anti diesel solenoid goes? Can I just remove the slide and re install the housing? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Th anti-dieseling solenoid is not for smog, so keep it. It will prevent your engine from "running on" after you turn the key to OFF. Quote Link to comment
B210GX Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Th anti-dieseling solenoid is not for smog, so keep it. It will prevent your engine from "running on" after you turn the key to OFF. David if you see in the pic there is no wire attached to it. It is not working at all except against him. Mike Quote Link to comment
spec-bre Posted September 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 So make sure I am correct Mike. Remove the pin/shaft from the anti diesel solenoid? If this is correct it is done. Carb has been cleaned and rebuilt and will go back on tomorrow. I'll keep the thread updated. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment
spec-bre Posted September 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 So make sure I am correct Mike. Remove the pin/shaft from the anti diesel solenoid? If this is correct it is done. Carb has been cleaned and rebuilt and will go back on tomorrow. I'll keep the thread updated. Thanks again! Successes!!!! (Sort of) Well the carb rebuild was atleast enough to get it running and make a couple laps around the parking lot. The carb responds to adjustment now where it did not before rebuild. It has a slight miss and is in dire need of a oil change as well as timing and a run the valves. I will dive into that tomorrow night and then try and get some brakes working ;) Quote Link to comment
spec-bre Posted September 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 Here are some pics of the $400 Datto. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 16, 2011 Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 Not bad for $400. Enjoy. Quote Link to comment
B210GX Posted September 16, 2011 Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 Good to hear, keep us posted :) Quote Link to comment
spec-bre Posted September 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 Thanks! It's an AZ car so rust is actually not too bad (compared to Indiana imports of the same salt ridden gen) It looks like it was many of first time drivers 1st car in regards to the fact that all 4 corners have been bumped at some point in time. The 8track still functions and is sporting the Grease sound track, The AC controls are the only thing remaining of the AC system, Seats have been recovered at some point in time, floor pans are in good shape, so yes all in all It was well worth the 400. I would enjoy it more if I didn't have the 510 project going on right now. I an a 1 at a time guy or I would never get anything done:P Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 16, 2011 Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 The 8track still functions and is sporting the Grease sound track SCORE! My mom loved that movie! Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted September 16, 2011 Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 Sweet another coupe! You should give it a greesed theme name :) Quote Link to comment
spec-bre Posted September 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 Sweet another coupe! You should give it a greesed theme name :) That would entail me sitting down and watching the movie "again" and I don't see that happening any time soon :P I have to treat this one like a stray dog. "Do not name it because if you do it will be yours to keep"... Quote Link to comment
spec-bre Posted September 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Update on the B210. The night before last I changed the oil and subbed 1 quart of auto trans fluid, Ran all the valves, Topped off the coolant system, messed with the carb a bit more, and tried to fine tune the timing but could not do so due to the car dieing at desired RPM range. It will start right up with a couple pumps of the "exciter" idol and run fine but does so at around 1500 rpms. I have tinkered with the carb a bit more when at running temps but feel the car has set for so long it might have a ring stuck or possible some dirty valve issue that I hope the auto trans fluid might help with (this worked on my L16 like a charm). I will run a compression test and do a leak down test when I get back for CO next week. Quote Link to comment
king bee66 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 greased, not so lighting Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 It will start right up with a couple pumps of the "exciter" idol What is the exciter idol? ...and run fine but does so at around 1500 rpms[/url] That's normal. Fast idle for cold engine is around 1500 RPM. Once it is warm it should idle at 700 RPM. If it won't it might be that the idle-cut solenoid is disconnected. Quote Link to comment
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