dennis Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 the clutch that came on your engine is NOT oem, Notice the blue on the friction disc? this would imply that the clutch has been replaced, and that makes you wonder one of two things, Does it really have 45k miles? OR Did it really have 45k miles of severe abuse that warranted a clutch replacement. I guess it doesn't really matter since you tore it all down. Food for thought. I dont think it would matter in his situation since he is doing a rebuild with aftermarket parts. Maybe have the block and head magnafluxed. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 You should invest in a welder because you're going to need it. It's a 40 year old car so who knows what kind of shiesty shit has been done to it. Just get it done. 68-69 parts are hard to find so try not mess anything up. S13 valve cover hit the wiper motor bracket. Don't know about s14-15. Soak the big wiper pivot nuts with a penetrating oil for a couple days. Just to be safe. What intercooler and radiator are you going to run. I want to learn to weld, but to be honest am still a bit afraid of the idea. I took metal shop, way, way, WAY back in the day and did some welding in high school. But like many of us, that was a lifetime ago. I am going to have to research and think about that one. The other problem is, I am not exactly sure how or what to weld to make the core support sit right. I removed as little material as possible. Thinking it is better to let the pros handle this particular problem and maybe learn to weld small things here and there with time. I really hope that the s13 sr20det engine I have built does not prevent me from using the wipers. I really like them and have every intention of keeping them... Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 I want to learn to weld, but to be honest am still a bit afraid of the idea. I took metal shop, way, way, WAY back in the day and did some welding in high school. But like many of us, that was a lifetime ago. I am going to have to research and think about that one. The other problem is, I am not exactly sure how or what to weld to make the core support sit right. I removed as little material as possible. Thinking it is better to let the pros handle this particular problem and maybe learn to weld small things here and there with time. I really hope that the s13 sr20det engine I have built does not prevent me from using the wipers. I really like them and have every intention of keeping them... Are you going to do the assy of your bottom end on the SR? If you are PM me, I have a video to send you. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Yes sir! PM sent. :) Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Got started on the 280zx strut rehab last night. Going to go coilovers, but no plans on shortening them. Here is what I started with... Back side view. They are not perfect, but they will be when I am done... Brake caliper and top seal off. This was when I noted that the hub was mounted in front of the rotor. Why the hell was this the design methodology back in 1968?? It is insane to think you have to take off the wheel, hub, and then replace the rotor. Unless of course, I am a dumbass that simply didn't know what I was doing during disassembly... Up and personal shot of my rusty hubs.... Need to get these machined so that they can work with an OEM Sentra rotor and a big old 4 piston Wilwood caliper... In the homerun stretch of the 1st 280zx strut assembly. Still needed to remove the dust shield (which proved to be a huge pain in the @ss) and then seperate the hub from the rotor (which proved to be an even larger pain in the @ss)... Wound up tearing the $hit out of the dust shield and dremeling out the rusted bolts and using vice grips to get them each out. Took WAY too long, but it got done and no midgets were kicked in the process. Now, the rotor seperating from the caliper just seemed impossible until I started whacking it with my old trust rubber mallet. Once I noticed it was starting to split I just pounded in a screwdriver and went back and forth to each side until it popped off... Just when you thought the fun was over, it was time for round two. Which, obviously went much faster. But I did have to drill out the bolts on the dust shield once again. Anyone have any good tips on how to clean these things up?? Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Took the day off work today to run some dato errands. Finally got the title transferred to me after being lazy for so long. Then had it registered. Was going to go non-op, but I figure this way I put pressure on myself to get it done sooner. So I registered it active. Then stopped by to meet Al at Datsun Parts, LLC. Good dude filled with massive amounts of datsun knowledge. Getting my 280zx hubs machines down to accept Sentra rotors and picked up a Wilwood 4 piston kit for the front and 2 piston for the rear. Full rotor conversion. Also getting the calipers powder coated red. The color will pop behind what I hope will be 15" Watanabe RS8s with a black face and a polished lip. :) Need to get this thing to paint soon. Still looking for someone good in SoCal to work in my baby's body. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 What is this Sentra rotor/wilwood caliper combo you speak of? I cant find anything about it online. Do you need any caliper adapters? Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I'll give you more details and pictures as I get them my friend. Yes, you do need a caliper adapter for the front and rear. I was looking at big brake options and I liked that I got a big Wilwood caliper up front and a matching 2 piston out back, but could still get a 15" rim over them. I didn't want to go any larger. Also, instead of buying a specialty rotor, I can just pick up a replacement from almost anywhere. (Al's idea). I'm excited to see the end result. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 I'll give you more details and pictures as I get them my friend. Yes, you do need a caliper adapter for the front and rear. I was looking at big brake options and I liked that I got a big Wilwood caliper up front and a matching 2 piston out back, but could still get a 15" rim over them. I didn't want to go any larger. Also, instead of buying a specialty rotor, I can just pick up a replacement from almost anywhere. (Al's idea). I'm excited to see the end result. Who is going to make the bracket? Can you hook me up? PM me. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Of course I can hook you up. After all the help you have given me, dude I owe you a lot more than that. PM sent. Just let me know how I can help. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Had a shocking realization today. Took some parts to powder coat and was day dreaming for a moment while staring in to the engine bay. I am not 100%, but the 1968 suicide wipers may not work with the sr engine. The center wiper motor looks like it mounts too low on the bracket and may hit the back of the valve cover. Someone tell me it is not true or that there is a work around??? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Talk to Phil... He is the only one I have even see mention this... Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 Talk to Phil... He is the only one I have even see mention this... jeff is the pioneer. he told me Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 jeff is the pioneer. he told me as in IceHouse? Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 I want to learn to weld, but to be honest am still a bit afraid of the idea. I took metal shop, way, way, WAY back in the day and did some welding in high school. But like many of us, that was a lifetime ago. I am going to have to research and think about that one. The other problem is, I am not exactly sure how or what to weld to make the core support sit right. I removed as little material as possible. Thinking it is better to let the pros handle this particular problem and maybe learn to weld small things here and there with time. Welding is like riding a bike dood. You've done everything else with this build yourself... might as well pick up a welder and fix that core support yourself Doesn't look like it would need too much work.. little bit of cleaning up here and there. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Welding is like riding a bike dood. You've done everything else with this build yourself... might as well pick up a welder and fix that core support yourself Doesn't look like it would need too much work.. little bit of cleaning up here and there. There is a part of me that really wants to, but I'm still conflicted about it. I really shouldn't try to do it myself if there are more appropriate techniques for welding I don't know about. It seems pretty simple, but I will be driving the car a lot so I don't want to take unnecessary chances with my life. I think once I do enough reading I will begin to feel more confident. Do I need a TIG and a MIG?? The other part of me just thinks I should plan to do it all and learn to do bondo and paint too. It will just take longer to master each skill and finally drive her. I am do eager to fire that engine up it is killing me. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 There is a part of me that really wants to, but I'm still conflicted about it. I really shouldn't try to do it myself if there are more appropriate techniques for welding I don't know about. It seems pretty simple, but I will be driving the car a lot so I don't want to take unnecessary chances with my life. I think once I do enough reading I will begin to feel more confident. Do I need a TIG and a MIG?? The other part of me just thinks I should plan to do it all and learn to do bondo and paint too. It will just take longer to master each skill and finally drive her. I am do eager to fire that engine up it is killing me. I would just get it running with the body rough. You can work the body while its running plus if you get it running and all your mounting and cutting figured out, it reduces the chance of screwing up your new paint installing all of your components. This is exactly what I am doing. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Dennis!! I noticed you were doing it this way too. As I started thinking about things like relocating the battery to the trunk, adding hood shocks, and now my new found suicide wiper problem it has become more and more apparent that I am going to have to do some assembly well before paint. I guess it was a rookie mistake on my part. Isn't it twice the work to get it running and then get it painted? Are you going to pull the engine again? I figured if I painted myself I could prep the bay, paint, get it running, and then do body work. What is the best route? Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Dennis!! I noticed you were doing it this way too. As I started thinking about things like relocating the battery to the trunk, adding hood shocks, and now my new found suicide wiper problem it has become more and more apparent that I am going to have to do some assembly well before paint. I guess it was a rookie mistake on my part. Isn't it twice the work to get it running and then get it painted? Are you going to pull the engine again? I figured if I painted myself I could prep the bay, paint, get it running, and then do body work. What is the best route? Best route is what works for you. If you get the engine bay looking great prior to installation of your components you risk damage due to potential install problems. What happens when you get your radiator and you have to cut the rad support up? Also what happens if you have to cut up the front frame rail because you decided to go with a certain intercooler? I do not think it is double the work. The hardest part is planning and implementing the parts. Take a lot of pictures of the orientation of your components and mark up what needs and doesnt need to be filled in. When it comes time to throw everything back in providing you did it right. It should only take you a full day at most. Plus if you have been un-motivated due to project lengths then you can drive it around and get some self gratification know it works properly and you have worked out any bugs. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 I agree with Dennis, proper way would be to mock up everythings, as in you could start the car, but strip it all down again and paint it. Since having painted my car I have needed to do some work on my car that I wish was done prior to paint. (Mirror, roof rack, Need to reinstall rear bumper). There is always something. You mentioned hood struts, I recommend this upgrade. It makes the hood go up to the full extent of the hinges. You no longer need the center support, and you no longer have to crouch under the hood. This also means it is easier to get light into the engine bay, before my hood would block the light from the few lights I have in my garage. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 I'm a convinced man fellas. I am going to bite the bullet and get that engine out over the holiday. Like Dennis made mention of, I am getting demotivated. The whole front end is already apart and ready anyway. I also have the new core support and steering linkage on order. I figure engine out this weekend and new engine in two weeks after. I can order my rear coil overs this weekend and have all the suspension and brakes ready to go and drive for a bit. Can't wait!! Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 23, 2011 Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 I'm a convinced man fellas. I am going to bite the bullet and get that engine out over the holiday. Like Dennis made mention of, I am getting demotivated. The whole front end is already apart and ready anyway. I also have the new core support and steering linkage on order. I figure engine out this weekend and new engine in two weeks after. I can order my rear coil overs this weekend and have all the suspension and brakes ready to go and drive for a bit. Can't wait!! The way I dropped my SR in was so easy I did it by myself. Just make sure that you cut that tranny tunnel before you try and dropping it. Also remember that the tranny tunnel near the shifter on the SR is wider than the tunnel so you need to expand the area. I can show you exactly where I did this. Also, make sure you do not cut your brake line (the top tube in the tunnel, the bottom you can remove). I cut my brake line because I am going to run a stainless line. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 I am so excited!!!! I just picked up a new and never used Datsport Conversion and Handling kit for a steal!!! It was originally meant for the 180B to SR conversion, but is effectively the same as the 1600 / 510 kit. After talking to Baz and company over at Datsport, all I need now is a transmission crossmember and an idler arm. Anyone have any suitable suggestions?? I am back to the build once I get my powder coated SR parts (Valve cover, intake manifold, and lower oil pan) back. I have also been waiting to pull the engine because I am in the process of moving and I don't want to have an undriveable car for the move. Brakes should be done in a week and then I will get to work on the suspension. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 I am so excited!!!! I just picked up a new and never used Datsport Conversion and Handling kit for a steal!!! It was originally meant for the 180B to SR conversion, but is effectively the same as the 1600 / 510 kit. After talking to Baz and company over at Datsport, all I need now is a transmission crossmember and an idler arm. Anyone have any suitable suggestions?? I am back to the build once I get my powder coated SR parts (Valve cover, intake manifold, and lower oil pan) back. I have also been waiting to pull the engine because I am in the process of moving and I don't want to have an undriveable car for the move. Brakes should be done in a week and then I will get to work on the suspension. Are you going to sell your 280ZX struts? Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 Are you telling me that the Datsport crossmember and LCAs won't work with the 280zx struts and Wilwood BBK!?? I may cry... EDIT - just checked, I'm good. Sorry my friend, the 280zx struts will not be sold. :) Quote Link to comment
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