Dawgz83948 Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Well I got my 620 last week. I removed the battery and cut out all the rust (most of the wheel well). Next I'm going to weld new metal in it's place, and replace the exhaust from the header back. Fix a few dents and bondo the rust on the doors and panel under the doors, paint the truck a flat black until actual color gets put on. I fixed the temp gauge and the ignition switch (the fuel gauge and idiot lights would not work when key was in the on position). Brake pedal pretty much goes to the floor so I purchased new shoes/wheel and master cylinders (So much for the truck being a daily driver before I bought it, or Oregon's safety inspections are an utter joke). Anything else I should look at while I'm at it? Meh, at least most of the parts are fairly cheap on Datsuns. Does anyone have or can tell me where to get the parts I need: Stock Carb with a choke for a decent price? - I do want to do a sidedraft carb later - Non rusty passengers wheel well (from the radiator support to the begining of the wheel arch? Actual 620 radiator w/ shroud? (Apparently a 510? radiator was used and only 2 screws are holding it in, and you guessed it, the shroud was cut) Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Sounds like a good start. You might want to look into getting a weber downdraft for now. They are a bit easier to find than the stock carb. Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted August 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 2eDeYe' date='03 August 2011 - 07:01 AM' timestamp='1312383698' post='523834']Sounds like a good start. You might want to look into getting a weber downdraft for now. They are a bit easier to find than the stock carb. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Anything else I should look at while I'm at it? If you don't know the maintenance history replace the rad coolant/anti freeze, engine oil and filter, transmission oil with GL-4 80w90 (if standard) and the differential oil with GL-5 90w. Very expensive to not check the oil and loose a transmission or diff. Tranny and diff shouldbe changes every 30K miles, do you really trust the PO did this? Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted August 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 If you don't know the maintenance history replace the rad coolant/anti freeze, engine oil and filter, transmission oil with GL-4 80w90 (if standard) and the differential oil with GL-5 90w. Very expensive to not check the oil and loose a transmission or diff. Tranny and diff shouldbe changes every 30K miles, do you really trust the PO did this? Not likely that he did it, although I'm not sure. The engine oil looks new and the transmission is a 5 speed speed standard pattern. Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Allright, I spoke too soon. Apparently the ignition switch may be bad because the dash gauges/lights stopped working again. Also I took the brakes apart since the pedal goes to the floor before anything starts to work. I laughed and wondered how long or even if the previous owner wondered why the brakes would not bleed correctly. The drivers cylinder was incorrectly installed, AKA the line was higher than the bleeder, you'll never get all the air out. So bascally the rears were doing 100% of the stopping (proved by the heat cracks in the rear shoes). So I'm replaceing all the shoes, cylinders, master cylinder, rubber brake lines, greaseing the adjuster (it was bone dry), replaceing the flare nuts on the master and drivers side. The power booster is good (it holds vacuum for extended periods of time). I also replaced something called the heater relay (?????) one of the wires was melted and the relay itself shorted out inside (fried and severed the wire). What the heck is this thing? I used a relay out of my Porsche and wired it up. Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Ok 620 experts. I finished the brakes and bled them. How are the brakes supposed to feel? How much pedal travel should it have before brakes work well? Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 Ok, project update for those who care (probably nobody). I'll also take some pics. I got the rebuilt .40 over L20b back from the shop. The compression is 175 on all holes. I swapped as much as I could today and will complete assembling the motor tomorrow. I found a solution for the PCV valve (I'll snap some pics just in case someone is interested). The L20B uses different bolts for the alternator mouting bracket so I had to ream the holes larger and get the correct bolts. I pulled the windshield and bought a new gasket to reinstall. Will sand off any rust and am planning to paint the truck flat black thus will seal the under the windshield with flat black paint. Hopefully by Saturday this truck will have a freshly rebuilt L20B mates to a 280ZX transmission. Does anyone have a pic of how the distributer should be installed? Is it possible to install the rotor 180* out like it was on my Dodge? I purchased a new 75 620 L20b Radiator (Brass) for $138 from Autozone, Had the heater core repaired, purchased new molded heater hose, obviously new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, The radiator will NOT be cooled by the waterpump driven fan I purchased a 12" electric fan from summit racing to handle cooling duties. On a side note, I forget who sold me my truck, but either he has no clue about cars (mechanically) or he was lieing about the condition of the truck engine. He did include a "good" L20b, which upon pulling the head had cyl 2&3 was rusted because of water entering the cyl wither through a warped head or becuase it was left out. The l16 that was in the car which I was told was NOT overheating and was good wasn't. Once I got the truck I had driven it 10miles and while it wouldn't get past the normal range while idleing, once under way it would pressurize the cooling system and pump most of the water through the radiator cap overflow. The radiator was the wrong one and was held in with 2 bolts. Sure enough upon pulling the head the head gasket was blown on the "good" l16 that was on the car. Just warning everyone to look carefully when purchasing a vehicle from that user. He is a Ratsun member. FYI! Either way I'll have some datsun l16 engine parts to sell pretty soon. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 That sucks Good thing is, you have a fresh built motor? Pics! Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 That sucks Good thing is, you have a fresh built motor? Pics! Pics Tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 How important is the water going to the intake manifold? Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 How important is the water going to the intake manifold? Not half as important as PICS of your truck <_< Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 How important is the water going to the intake manifold? Its not the end of the world, some people block it off. If you live in a cold climate though, you will want to run it. It helps heat up the manifold/carb to running tempature and will in turn make your ride run more efficient. You can block it off if you are in a warm climate. i think it helps cool it, also though. Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 Its not the end of the world, some people block it off. If you live in a cold climate though, you will want to run it. It helps heat up the manifold/carb to running tempature and will in turn make your ride run more efficient. You can block it off if you are in a warm climate. i think it helps cool it, also though. Is California a warmer climate. The coldest it reaches here is slightly below freezing until 10:00 or 11:00 am. Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 Pics. Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted October 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Is the oil pump/distributer shaft between the L20B and L16 the same? I ask because I connot get ANY oil flow out of this motor. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 The distance from the drive gear down to the pump is the same only the top lengths to the dizzy are different. Take oil pump off and fill with oil. Half fill the oil filter. 4 qts in the pan. Take the coil wire off and crank away. How you know there's no oil pressure??? Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted October 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 The distance from the drive gear down to the pump is the same only the top lengths to the dizzy are different. Take oil pump off and fill with oil. Half fill the oil filter. 4 qts in the pan. Take the coil wire off and crank away. How you know there's no oil pressure??? Thank for the reply. 1) The light will not turn off 2) With the oil filter off there is no oil shooting out while cranking Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 So the shaft is different between the two engines. We had to use the L1.6 shaft in the L2.0. The distributer is turning though. Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted October 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 So the shaft is different between the two engines. We had to use the L1.6 shaft in the L2.0. The distributer is turning though. Apparently I didn't let it run long enough. The shafts are NOT different between the 2 motors. Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Well the truck is 98% there. I have square port heads and a round port exhaust manifold. I've read that's bad and my question is: I've had the car idle for about ~30min and took it for a 3 minute drive. Any chance I've damaged anything? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Unlikely, there's nothing to harm. The problem is the increased chance of a gasket leak in the exhaust/head area. A round port manifold doesn't properly cover the square port shape. Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Unlikely, there's nothing to harm. The problem is the increased chance of a gasket leak in the exhaust/head area. A round port manifold doesn't properly cover the square port shape. Ya, huge exhaust leak. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Dawg you get rid of that hose from cranksace to the valve cover? Thats a BIG NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!!! I asummed you primed the oil pump before start up? as for the distributor you can put the mount in 180 off and thus putting the vac adv in another spot. but ck the wiring fire order as you plug wires will be 180 off. I would mount it where the vac adv was out more in the open away from the stat housing. as you have a point dizzy anyway so need to worry about the module heating up. But they can be mounted 2 ways. watch this Quote Link to comment
Dawgz83948 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Dawg you get rid of that hose from cranksace to the valve cover? Thats a BIG NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!!! I asummed you primed the oil pump before start up? as for the distributor you can put the mount in 180 off and thus putting the vac adv in another spot. but ck the wiring fire order as you plug wires will be 180 off. I would mount it where the vac adv was out more in the open away from the stat housing. as you have a point dizzy anyway so need to worry about the module heating up. But they can be mounted 2 ways. watch this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aBTjhJMByo As my car sits now. Quote Link to comment
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