slayer Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 well he is the truck i bought about three weeks ago. it's a little project but i am sure it will be fun. it's kind of funny. i paid $200 for the truck then it cost me $150 to register it and get plates and tags. then i put $337 worth of tires on it :) Quote Link to comment
shane_lxi Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 Want to trade it for a 521?! lol. seriously. Quote Link to comment
kiznook Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 Shane, youre better off with your 521. Slayer, why did you spend so much on tires, but leave those wheels? Looks like a good project, should keep you busy for a while Quote Link to comment
slayer Posted March 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 i knda like the wheels. and i am not in to lowering my trucks. and i neede good tires. not only is it my project but it's my daily driver and i do 82 - 110 miles a day depending on the day. it's been back firing for a while so i knew it was out of time. i lookt at the engine for the first time... well the first good look and noticed that the vacuum advance was not hooked to the Dist. :) also noticed that when the ower before tried to bypass the smog stuff he left a couple vacuum hoses unhooked and unplugged so i had all kinds of vacuum leaks. when i put the timing light on it i found out that it was timed for 25 degrees BTDC. so i found it was su[posed to be set for 12 degrees BTDC but when i put it there it dies the closest i can get is about 15 degrees BTDC. so now that i have rambled i have a quest. where is a good place to start with the adjusting the Carb? i know it's running rich cause i can smell gas in the exuast and i know on the automatic chock you can spin the houseing the adjust it rich or lean. any idea where a good place to start is? thanks guys. Quote Link to comment
73super Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 i knda like the wheels. and i am not in to lowering my trucks. ... . GLORY! SOMEBODY THAT HAS HIS FLIPPIN' HEAD ON STRAIGHT!!!! HA! :D I'VE NEVER BEEN SOOOOOOOOO PROUD! :D Quote Link to comment
shane_lxi Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 Shane, youre better off with your 521. Slayer, why did you spend so much on tires, but leave those wheels? Looks like a good project, should keep you busy for a while lol, I know my 521 is just about done! I'm thinking of getting a kc 620 now though :D. I cant decide!! Quote Link to comment
kiznook Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 GLORY! SOMEBODY THAT HAS HIS FLIPPIN' HEAD ON STRAIGHT!!!! HA! :D I'VE NEVER BEEN SOOOOOOOOO PROUD! :D :fu:my truck isn't lowered:fu: Quote Link to comment
datsun dreamer Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Nice Truck:) Like the Color:D!!!! Quote Link to comment
slayer Posted September 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2008 Well Finally getting my weber put on (thanks Phlebmaster) Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted September 15, 2008 Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 Slayer, I moved your project thread to the project forum. Keep up the good work!! Quote Link to comment
slayer Posted September 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 the weber is on but after these photos i had to bypass the fuel rail. it passed the fuel inlet in the weber made a neat little "Z" shape cutting the fuel supply low. then this morning. no matter where i had the choke i could only get it to idle for about 30 seconds at a time and only if it was stomped to the floor tried to roll it down the hill to roll start it. but to no avail. so i parked it on the side of our road (i live in a mobile home court) drove my wife durango to work. got home got my wife and the tow rope. went down to the truck checkd to make sure there was fuel in the filter (there was) checked all the plug wires. everything was tight, so for kicks i hopped in a tried it. it just turned over for about a minute and then fired up perfectly and i drove it back up the hill with no issues. turned it off. restarted it. no issues no idea what the heck happened. crossing my fingers for in the morning cheesy little block off plate :) Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 23, 2008 Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 That all you need for the block off plate, but if you remove it and find the inlet hole that goes into the intake and drill and tap that spot, you can still run the needed PCV valve. Jason Quote Link to comment
slayer Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 so i pulled off the blinkers to clean them up and do some color testing on that peice of metal when i pulled off the blinkers... i found that they have more then likely never been off. Much cleaner Now i just have to figure out how to make the insde Very reflective :( Quote Link to comment
slayer Posted February 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 ok so u pulled the grill and bumper an i am not sure but i do not this this center bar should be pushed back this far should it? and if it is not suposed to be where should i looks for buckeling so i know what to pull out? and any idea what this crack is in? i have not cleaned it up yet... but it kinda has the texture of something soft.. not metal. Thanks Guys Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted February 3, 2009 Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 About half a quart of bondo.:lol: Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted February 3, 2009 Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 I can't wait to see you put your new loot on. :D Quote Link to comment
OG lil E Posted February 3, 2009 Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 Much cleaner Now i just have to figure out how to make the insde Very reflective :( Hey Slayer, making your lights more reflective is really pretty easy. The first thing you need to do is clean the corrosion that has collected inside your light housings. Your reflectors are two piece, so if it is possible, disassemble them as much as you can. This will make the operation alot easier. Fine grit sandpaper (like around 220) or a Scotch Brite pad will usually do the trick. Don't use too rough a grit of sandpaper or Scotch Brite pad or you will scratch the housings up. You want to remove the corrosion, not gouge them up. After you've sanded them down, use some kind of chemical to wipe them down. Make sure you clean them up good and get any sanding dust and loose corrosion out of the housings. I usually use some laquer thinner on a rag. Make sure it is completely dry before you continue. Next, go to your local Wal Mart, Ace Hardware, Hobby Lobby or similar place and get some Krylon Silver Metallic spray paint. You can use any silver spray paint, but I've found the Krylon is very reflective, dries fast and is pretty durable. Also, get some masking tape to tape off the bulb sockets. If you get paint inside the sockets, the bulbs will not make good contact and they will give you problems. Give the inside of the housing a few good coats. Be sure to take your time and go light on the paint for each coat, that way the paint won't run or sag. The Krylon dries pretty fast if you're using it on a fairly warm day, so it shouldn't take too long to get them painted. After they are dry, reassemble them and you should be good to go. This will make your lights alot brighter. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: I did this on a '50 Plymouth I restored a while back. They had 50 years worth of corrosion on them, but they cleaned up pretty well. The difference in brightness was unbelievable! Hope this little tip will help you out. Good luck! E Quote Link to comment
slayer Posted August 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 OK so i finally decided to fix the Exhaust leaks made by the PO when they removed the emissions stuff.... or mostly removed it... i could not get the tubs out so i went to the parts store and got a 5/8's tap (just bigger then the original 16MM) and drilled and tapped and plugged. the one on the side proved to be very stuck even with a plumbing wrench i could not get it out. chewed it up good so i drilled and tapped and plugged it as well. now trying to figure out what to do anout the broken block vent. ANY IDEAS? Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 Vice grip that fucker out. Or you can chicle it out but shit might go inside the block... Quote Link to comment
slayer Posted August 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 those clean spots on it... are from vice grips :( no moving yet... sprayed it with carb cleaner... let it sit... then sprayed it with PB Blaster. now waiting. Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 nice truck man, good luck with it, looks like a good start so far. and for that tube just keep soaking in pb blaster... maybe try twisting it out with a pipe wrench. tap on the block around it with hammer to break up rust inside it. heat, freez just a few suggestions ? Quote Link to comment
slayer Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 so i added the 1981 510 60amp alternator. put in a brand new battery. it worked great for about a month. then i noticed that the lights where getting dim again. i drive 60 miles round trip to work and back. i can charge the Bat. and drive 3 days but by the time i get home on the 3rd day my headlights are more like candles. i was wondering what wire on the "T" plug goes to chage the Battery (the top horz. one or the bottom vert.) and if i could cut it and run a new wire right from there to the positive on the Bat. or if that would cause orther issues. input please. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Neither of them in the "T" plug charge the battery. The other wire on the isolated stud goes to the battery, it is probably going into the harness and gets lost. Is your battery light on? Put a voltmeter on the battery to see if it is charging? Quote Link to comment
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