Sealik Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 I noticed there were a few threads on valve spring compressors that didn't give any info on one that could remove the springs without removing the cam. Nissan Motorsports lists one...but cannot find any info through their 'vendors'....yet PN-99996-26336 Pic/link of aforementioned tool... http://datsun510.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=12343 There are a few out there...but...overly priced of course Kent-Moore.....408 bucks :blink: http://www.costplustools.com/NISSAN-INFINITI-Tools_c_944.html Found one that is similar to the Motorsport, made by KD Tools. PN - KD-3087 Price ranges from 49-69 bucks....most sites are sold out. Summit Racing lists one. http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=KD%203087&dds=1 Or.....I just need to find another 199 members to purchase this.... :D Sold in sets of 200....hmmm...should get a good price :lol: http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/358091725/OHV_Valve_Spring_Compressor.html Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted July 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 I use this. Ya...I have a similar one....bit of a bitch to use when the cam is in the way though. I also have the large C-clamp style......which is more of a bitch if the head isn't removed.... :D Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 I have the Nissan Comp one. It really isn't a spring compressor so much as a valve lowering tool to install rockers. I have used it as a spring compresser on a head that is installed on the engine. You need to feed 3-4 feet of rope into the cylinder thru the spark plug hole.Turn the engine by the crank pulley bolt to compress the rope against the head and keep the valves closed. The compresser will then compress the spring and the valve will be held up against the seat by the compressed rope. Kind of hokey, but it works as a quick fix when replacing a broken valve spring or retainer on a race engine. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted July 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 I have the Nissan Comp one. It really isn't a spring compressor so much as a valve lowering tool to install rockers. I have used it as a spring compresser on a head that is installed on the engine. You need to feed 3-4 feet of rope into the cylinder thru the spark plug hole.Turn the engine by the crank pulley bolt to compress the rope against the head and keep the valves closed. The compresser will then compress the spring and the valve will be held up against the seat by the compressed rope. Kind of hokey, but it works as a quick fix when replacing a broken valve spring or retainer on a race engine. I have a fitting to screw into the spark plug hole, just use compressed air. Need to change (upgrade) the springs and retainers in a few weeks and wanted a tool I could use which wouldn't necessitate the removal of the cam....etc...etc. EDIT The parts store ordered the 3087, received the newer version...like Skibs above. The other parts store in town found this... Did a dry run.... Rather impressed...fits like a glove Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 I'm changing the retainers and springs in the next few days.....I will be using a air compressor with a fitting to the spark plug hole. No rope tricks.... 20 lbs of air in cylinder is sufficient? Figure I can replace them all in 20 minutes or less... Does not include the (setting) valve lash clearance....of course... :D Shooting for the 'Guinness World Record'.....beer...... :lol: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 I'm changing the retainers and springs in the next few days.....I will be using a air compressor with a fitting to the spark plug hole. No rope tricks.... 20 lbs of air in cylinder is sufficient? Shooting for the 'Guinness World Record'........... :lol: I don't know Doug. Rope works even if the electricity goes off. It works when you get tired and go to bed before finishing the job. All you need is a plug wrench to use rope. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 I don't know Doug. Rope works even if the electricity goes off. It works when you get tired and go to bed before finishing the job. All you need is a plug wrench to use rope. Ya......I know... :) I wanted to use the air so I could back one of the lobes out of the way to pivot the spring compressor. With the rope....valves are at 10 and 2.....2 is slightly in the way Here nor there...been using the rope....apparently I have issues....leak down wise that is... :D Spring compressor works fine...uninstalling.....but with the taller Motorsports...it's a bitch. Might have to pull the carb. SHIT...PISS...MOTHER FUCKER...SHIT...PISS...POOP. Turrets.............. :lol: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Here's the stock retainers and 180 pads..center of pic...and all to the left 150-180 retainers, 180 pads with Motorsport spring(s).... Guess I gained a little more meat around the lash pad.... Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 20 pounds of air isn't enough. I'd put about 90 pounds in there to be safe. Technically rope is safer. I have both the cam grabber tool and the c-clamp head off valve spring compressor. I like them. :D Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 20 pounds of air isn't enough. I'd put about 90 pounds in there to be safe. Technically rope is safer. I have both the cam grabber tool and the c-clamp head off valve spring compressor. I like them. :D Ya....I had the compressor set at 20 lbs....30 ....60 .... nothing Still couldn't separate the valve and retainer.... :blink: ...............Then realized the spark plug fitting had a one way valve ..... :D Removed that....excellent...cylinder pressurized. Not good...valves are leaking. Although....I did a compression test just prior to tearing it apart. 175 +- 1 LB...on No 3 sprocket...not bad..... I guess. Hmmmmmmm...who would of thunk...more repairs Quote Link to comment
DaveyDaveDaveDave Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc144/sealick/P1250001.jpg Can not find! Seriously! Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc144/sealick/P1250001.jpg Can not find! Seriously! Well duh.....I got it :P ... :lol: Seriously though.....you should be able to find it. Not all auto part stores carry that Jet brand.....try another Quote Link to comment
DaveyDaveDaveDave Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Aaaaaaand this is what I wound up using. :P Worked great, only needed to do a single spring. Quote Link to comment
BURLEIGH Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Why not just pull the cam??? I just shove a wedge shaped piece of wood with a long string on it down between the cam chain to hold the tensioner, make note of the cam position on the chain and take it off... The little time it takes to do this far out weighs pushung a rope, spinning the crank, fighting cam lobes, etc... Just my $.01 Good Luck! Quote Link to comment
DaveyDaveDaveDave Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Rather not mess with the timing and, in my case, unbolt a motor mount, jack the engine up, etc. About an hour start to finish, and it was my first time doing that sorta thing, so I took my time. For all new rockers, springs, seals, sure. Something about the cam journals being line bored, too. So dont wanna take off the cam towers. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 KD superceded the 3087 (which was a really good tool) with that crappy one like Skib posted (which I have, and it's a pain in the ass to use). Be OK on an OHV head but not when you have cam towers in the way- I HAD to take the towers off to use it and even then the long/short legs make it compress at an angle. It slipped off once and fired the valve spring across the driveway. Taking the cam off when the head is still on the engine in the car is not an option because to use the rope method requires turning the crank to TDC, which means installing/uninstalling the cam each time. Do it enough you chance the chain slipping/popping the tensioner. I'll have to see if I can find that JET tool. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Something about the cam journals being line bored, too. So dont wanna take off the cam towers. I've had the cam towers off (gently removed) a few times...no problem...cam always spun freely after install. There are 'centering' dowels and a torque sequence....5-10-12lbs Quote Link to comment
BURLEIGH Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Yeah, you shouldn't have to line bore anything... You don't have to remove the cam towers to remove the cam, but there are several methods that keep everything in line if you do. All of them include torquing the cam tower bolts a little at a time and a dead blow hammer...:cool: Sounds like you took care of it though...:) Quote Link to comment
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