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L Series acting funny / wont idle


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Hey man, I just saw this...

 

Outside the fuel bowl JB weld would work fine, but if its constantly exposed to gas it gets soft and wont work.

 

I should have an extra top piece to a weber (I dont remember if that is the one with the oval top or the standard square top... Is the aircleaner base cut to fit around it?) Also the floats are good unless there is scale (shouldnt be, they were all clean, just stained).

 

Do you know of anybody in town that sells a complete weber kit? Lighthouse wants $45 and their kit and it doesnt include the power valve...

 

 

Weber carbs direct in NY. I actually have a spare 32/36 rebuild kit in my toolbox if you need one Mike.

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I got the carb put back together and installed and it didnt seem to change anything...

 

I took a video of me trying to keep it running so maybe this will help diagnose it.

 

th_VIDEO0031.jpg

 

Where is progressively got worse over the course of two days I dont think its timing. That leaves fuel or ignition issues. It has spark and seems to be getting enough fuel but the only thing I cant think is to try replacing the fuel pump??

 

Any ideas would really help, Im officially lost...

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It's pretty clear from the video that the Idle transition circuits of the carb are not working. There is a series of small holes above the throttle plate that add greater amounts of fuel as the throttle is opened up to about 30%. Above that the main jets feed through the small venturis at the top of the carb. The motor starts and runs at high throttle so ignition and fuel feed are good enough. Cleaning a carburetor usually requires high pressure air or water to blast out the passages.

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It's pretty clear from the video that the Idle transition circuits of the carb are not working. There is a series of small holes above the throttle plate that add greater amounts of fuel as the throttle is opened up to about 30%. Above that the main jets feed through the small venturis at the top of the carb. The motor starts and runs at high throttle so ignition and fuel feed are good enough. Cleaning a carburetor usually requires high pressure air or water to blast out the passages.

 

it doesnt run smooth at high rpm though... All the holes I could find and sprayed out didnt appear to be clogged. Where do the holes lead to so I can make sure they are cleaned out?

 

Thanks

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IMAG0382.jpg

 

It did this and I was getting closer but then I found the brass screw on the valve cover side (some kind of jet looking hole in it) was loose. Took it out, cleaned it, and now Im back to it not wanting to run anywhere but 3/4 or more throttle....

 

th_VIDEO0032.jpg

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IMAG0382.jpg

 

It did this and I was getting closer but then I found the brass screw on the valve cover side (some kind of jet looking hole in it) was loose. Took it out, cleaned it, and now Im back to it not wanting to run anywhere but 3/4 or more throttle....

 

That is the primary idle jet and tightening it has probably shut off the fuel to the idle circuit. I'm no expert on the weber but you should start looking here.

 

 

If you can drive this car then it's not a fuel delivery problem as it doesn't take much gas to idle on. The fuel return line won't cause bad idle unless the fuel pump is overpowering the float and the carb is flooding at idle. You have some bad adjustment in the idle/low speed or incorrect jets/emulsion tubes..

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ITS ALLIIIIIVVEE!!!!!

 

 

Thank you to everyone for all the help!!!!

 

It was the screws on the carb adapter plate, apparently I didnt use enough thread locker when I installed it and they vibrated loose over the course of a few thousand miles.... Reinstalled with copious amounts of thread locker and the great news is that I have a freshly rebuilt carb, a new fuel pump, and an empty bank account on Friday night poop.gifblink.gif.

 

 

Thanks again for the help,

Eric

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