ggzilla Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 * Remove transmission, driveshaft. get gearbox oil over everything... maybe drain it first.... remove motor mount bolts, jack the engine up a bit. Then loosen the oil pan and drop it down a bit, maybe drain it first. Then remove the clutch & flywheel. Do all this while on your back. Now you are ready to replace the rear main seal. Or * Drain water & oil. Disconnect all the small stuff (wires & hoses) and the exhaust pipe. Remove transmission bolts, then motor mount bolts (two bolts). Lift engine with a cherry picker (or two guys and a piece of rope on a 4x4). Do this while mostly not on your back. Now you can begin to replace the rear main seal, fit a new pan with the engine in full sight or on a bench. Advanced, fast working mechanics often like the first method. Novices are afraid of the second, but it is probably the easier way although it may take a little more time. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 * Remove transmission, driveshaft. get gearbox oil over everything... maybe drain it first.... remove motor mount bolts, jack the engine up a bit. Then loosen the oil pan and drop it down a bit, maybe drain it first. Then remove the clutch & flywheel. Do all this while on your back. Now you are ready to replace the rear main seal. How about this? Removing Transmission -Disconnect battery -Drain fluid. -Remove driveline -Remove starter -Unbolt Slave Cylinder and remove speedometer cable -Remove all 4 bolts holding engine to trans, and both bolts securing the engine plate below trans -Unbolt trans cross member and put a jack underneath trans. -Remove shifter. -Slide trans back, remove clutch/flywheel. -Using two screws(I prefer sheet-rock screws), remove the rear main seal. Take the screws, and screw one into the face of the seal on each side of the crank, 180 degrees apart from each other. Using pliers, pull on both and the seal will come out. Replace. -Installation the opposite of removal. -Add fluid -Crack open a cool one and enjoy the rest of your afternoon OR Removing Engine -Disconnect and remove battery -Drain coolant from engine -Remove top radiator hose from thermostat housing -Remove fan shrouding -Remove lower radiator hose from front timing cover -Remove radiator -Remove fan -Remove belt(s) -Remove and plug all fuel lines -Knock radiator over and spill coolant everywhere(Yum yum, kitties!) -Remove carburetor -Disconnect coil wire -Disconnect accelerator linkage -Disconnect wiring from oil sending unit and alternator -Remove alternator -Remove coolant hose from head and front timing cover -Disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust piping -Remove starter -Remove all 4 engine/trans bolts along with 2 engine plate securing bolts. -Install hoist/cherry picker/team of dudes with a bumper over their shoulders to engine. -Remove driver's side motor mount to insulator nut -Remove passenger side motor mount -Place jack underneath transmission bellhousing -Wrestle engine forward, trying not to crush anything or smash your little digits -Swear -Keep wrestling -Finally get it apart, and pull the engine up and out of the compartment without smashing or scratching your core support -Lower it down to a safe working height and remove pressure plate/flywheel -Remove rear main seal as stated above -Re install flywheel and clutch pressure plate -Raise engine carefully(remember that delicate little core support) up and over, and into engine bay. Lower it down CAREFULLY, trying not to smash anything plastic, metal, or flesh. -NOW comes the fun part.. trying to move the big heavy engine around on the hoist/cherry picker/team of oxen and get it at the EXACT same level and angle(up/down/left/right) as the input shaft of the trans. :excl: A load leveler is priceless at this stage. It won't make it easy, but it will make it ALOT less frustrating. :excl: -Fight with this for about an hour and you'll see why option 1 is far more fun ;) -Once you get past this part, you're on the home stretch. Everything is the reverse as removal. -Get done, realize that you thought you could re-use the old coolant in the bucket that's now infested with bugs and dirt(.. and even if you WERE man enough to re-use it, there's only half of it left; the rest is on the ground or on your engine compartment walls). -Walk to store to get more antifreeze and distilled water, since you forgot to get some before hand, silly boy. -... oh yes, and don't forget to clean up all the coolant :) Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 There was a guy advertising his 620 truck as a 610 on portland.craigslist. I forget the color. What was funny was that in the ad he said "I know what I have in it", but he obviously didnt know what he had... I called him and pointed that out and he said he knew but asked me what year they changed from 610-620, he also said he was going to keep it Quote Link to comment
Pumpkn210 Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 -Using two screws(I prefer sheet-rock screws), remove the rear main seal. Take the screws, and screw one into the face of the seal on each side of the crank, 180 degrees apart from each other. Using pliers, pull on both and the seal will come out. Replace. -Installation the opposite of removal. Do not use screws to install the seal, it will leak if punctured! :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 Do not use screws to install the seal, it will leak if punctured! :rolleyes: These are "speed holes". They make the car go fast. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVV_COOey0E&feature=player_embedded Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 Isn't that what the RTV is for? Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 yum yum kitties :rofl: I need to replace the trans in my truck! what you doing later this month kevin :D Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 So you don't have to loosen the oil pan to replace the rear main seal? In that case, remove the transmission, yes I see now. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 Yeah, pan stays on :) Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 So you don't have to loosen the oil pan to replace the rear main seal? In that case, remove the transmission, yes I see now. Yeah, pan stays on :) Its how I did it. Put a little oil on the inside of the seal to insure good contact. I used a seal pick set, but I had the sheetrock screws on standby. Invert the old seal and use it to drift in the new one. Done. Done. And Done. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 Yes, oil the new seal or use grease but not to seal it but to prevent tearing it when putting it on. Quote Link to comment
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