dozenhundred Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hey all, I'm getting kinda tired of the H4 headlight conversion overwhelming the little 35 amp alternator at idle. I have read on Datsun1200 about conversions and seen some posted here on Ratsun, but not specifically for the A12. Datsun 1200 claims the lower radiator hose is a problem with the bigger hitachi unit. Has anyone done this or some other small case alt. I wouldn't mind getting rid of the seperate regulator also. I saw a picture of Morrisun's smurf that looked like the bracket was modified but couldn't tell if it was a different alt. My alt bracket is wallowed out anyway and I have access to tools to build a new one. Looks like it would be pretty easy to lower the bottom mount down some for more room. Any suggestions? ;) Quote Link to comment
gpimm Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 I'm running the 40A unit out of a 210 in one of my 1200's. There is enough meat in the alternator bracket that bolts to the block to slot or re-drill the mounting holes. This will lower the alternator enough to clear the radiator hose. For wiring the internal regulated alternator I only hook up the charge light and let the regulator self sense. Self sense mode increases the output voltage ~.5 volts over having the sense wire connected to the alternator output. The extra .5 volt is welcome when you are trying to get nice white lights with your H4 setup. You have wired up a new harness for the lights using 30A relays that picks up power from the alternator output and returns the negative to the alternator case haven't you? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 I'm running a compact Nippondenso "1-wire" alternator on mine. Half the size, half the weight, more amps, and only cost $87 shipped. It does away with the external regulator, and is a straight bolt-on. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
ptown green Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 I went and pulled an alternator from a 94 saturn sl and rebuilt it for 20 bucks! Havnt installed it yet but itll be very easy.Im sorry man this is for my l series btw. Not A Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Datsun 210 ame with 50A or 60A unit. It is too large to truly "bolt on" the early A12, but you can modify the bracket as Gary P suggests. But it weighs more than the 1200 stocker, so can you consider it an 'upgrade'? Morrisun used a Mazda alternator, totally stock, didn't change the pulley or anything. It is 60A and lighter than the 1200 unit. Available from the pick-n-pull for $12.50 (I saw several last time I was there, it is from 1980s Mazdas). He did modify the bracket similar to what Gary is saying. Either way you will need a slightly larger fan belt. Datsun 1200 comes from factory with heavy gauge wire on the high beams, but the extra current may damage the headlight switch. So add a relay. This will also eliminate all the connections in the stock harness, adding reliability. You can cut the headlight harness, and solder in a wire over to the alternator BAT terminal. Use a $2 Nissan relay and more importantly a 30A fuse right at the ALT. Do the same for the Ground wire, cut it and solder in a splice wire (same gauge) over to the alternator E (earth/ground) terminal. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 I'm running a compact Nippondenso "1-wire" alternator on mine. Half the size, half the weight, more amps, and only cost $87 shipped. It does away with the external regulator, and is a straight bolt-on. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
DRIVEN Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 A relay upgrade makes a world of difference on it's own. I love the look of that Nipondenso. Quote Link to comment
dozenhundred Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 I'm running a compact Nippondenso "1-wire" alternator on mine. Half the size, half the weight, more amps, and only cost $87 shipped. Thanks guys, Anything known about what that Nippondenso unit comes from to help finding one? Or the Mazda unit mentioned earlier? Sounds like my kinda desire. I did indeed upgrade the headlight wiring. I bought a kit from Daniel Stern Lighting. Came with the relays and all sockets. I sourced the wiring local. The lights were in the car when I bought it running on the stock wiring. Needles to say the fuse box was melted. Bought a new fuse box off fleabay and installed the relays/upsized wiring. Nice now, but they do dim a little at idle. I understand the H4's can pull up to 30 amps, so with the stock 35 amp alt. it is indeed iffy. Hence the upgrade idea. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Anything known about what that Nippondenso unit comes from to help finding one? It comes from a fork lift. :P But for "1-wire" operation (as in just one big wire from the hot post to the battery and/or starter, uses none of the factory wires) it has a special "self-exciting" regulator installed in it. I get mine here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALTERNATOR-CHEVY-MINI-DENSO-STREET-ROD-RACE-1-WIRE-8162-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b881980bQQitemZ140534454283QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2649wt_1165 Bought 3 so far, all worked like a champ. :cool: 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 I love the look of that Nipondenso. I love 'em. I'm not a big stereo guy, so I don't need more than a 50-55amp alt can produce, so all my cars are getting these from now on. :cool: Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 The altenator I used on Smurf is from a Mazda RX7 (S4 1986-1988) I remove the jumper wire, unwrapped the harness, about a foot and removed the wires not needed and terminated the ones in the splices. The plastic connector that is in the back of the stock alt. slips right on to the rx7 alt. and only one wire is used in this connector, the other was already cut out. These are 70 amp alternators. I bought a head light relay kit from Black Dragon for a 240Z, it's plug and play no splicing-$29.95 plus shipping. I wanted to replace the orginal wiring to the head lights any way! Mine came with a double sheeve pulley, but the single sheeve lines up the same. If you need bracket to redrill for your 1200 let me know. The 1200 site has wiring diagrams for this change. 1 Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Find a alternator rebuild house and get a smaller pulley.They're around ten bucks.It will solve the dim idle issue. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 So morrisun, the Mazda alternator requires no wiring changes, correct? That alternator was also used in Mazda sedans and trucks from the looks of it. If you fit an internally-regulated alternator that uses the stock T-connector, just unplug the original voltage regulator and jump one wire. Either buy one of these, and plug it in where the external regulator was: Or do what I did which cost nothing: Quote Link to comment
mazdat Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Hey all, I'm getting kinda tired of the H4 headlight conversion overwhelming the little 35 amp alternator at idle. I have read on Datsun1200 about conversions and seen some posted here on Ratsun, but not specifically for the A12. Datsun 1200 claims the lower radiator hose is a problem with the bigger hitachi unit. Has anyone done this or some other small case alt. I wouldn't mind getting rid of the seperate regulator also. I saw a picture of Morrisun's smurf that looked like the bracket was modified but couldn't tell if it was a different alt. My alt bracket is wallowed out anyway and I have access to tools to build a new one. Looks like it would be pretty easy to lower the bottom mount down some for more room. Any suggestions? ;) How are you Kelly? Long time no talk. So hows the 12 looking so far? Any pics? 1 Quote Link to comment
flipsteresis Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Do you have more details about the RX7 mod? more details on the rewiring and install? I have a 83 maxima wagon needing a real charging system.. I want enough power on hand to power trailer lights and brakes, etcetc.. 70A sounds like a better solution. Do you have any dimensions for those posts? also the pulley looks nice and small - did it come that way? is it good at low idle? Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Maxima came with 60 amp alternator, you may what to look for one that puts out 100amps because of your demands on your charging system. Some of the mid 90's Maxima's had 100, 110, and 125 amps, I don't know if they would bolt in to your car or not but may be the simple way, you can take measurements off of yours and check out the wrecking yards for one that would fit. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 H4 headlights will require more than 35A alternator, but don't require 100A, a 50A unit is plenty. Morrisun, can you send me the bracket details? Quote Link to comment
ang94541 Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 So morrisun, the Mazda alternator requires no wiring changes, correct? That alternator was also used in Mazda sedans and trucks from the looks of it. If you fit an internally-regulated alternator that uses the stock T-connector, just unplug the original voltage regulator and jump one wire. Either buy one of these, and plug it in where the external regulator was: Or do what I did which cost nothing: GG does this one jumper keep the alt light functioning? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Yes, it jumps the Lamp circuit to the L terminal of a circa 1980 Datsun LR150 alternator (50A). For other alternators you will need two wires, one for L and the other for S. Or just connect S to A directly at the alternator. See http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Hitachi_LR_Alternator#Wiring 1 Quote Link to comment
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