blackdeth666 Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 I have a 1970 521 with what I believe is an L20b out of a 68 510 wagon in it, with an A87 head year unknown. The timing chain is rattling around so I'm going to replace it. I ordered a timing chain kit from napa for a 1979 200sx. Reason because it has I think eight holes rather than 3 on the cam gear. After researching on here I hear the 3 hole one was bad because you can't see the marks. Now looking at my manual it says "pre-73 has 42 pins between mating marks of the chain and 74-79 has 44. So did I get the wrong parts? It won't be in until tomorrow so I can't look at it and verify. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 L20 has more links in it because its taller. There was no L20b in 1968, they came in the trucks n such later on, i think 75? Once you pull the timing cover off, you will see a dimple on the crank, and theres only 3 ways to put the cam sprocket on. You should be good to go as long as you line up the dimples with the bright links on the chain. Most people line up the #2 spot on the cam gear. Make sure your motor is TDC, line up the 0degree on the crank pulley with the timing marks, then check your cam to make sure the front two lobes are at 10 and 2 oclock... Double check to make sure your motor is an L20. Right below the #3 spark plug, there should be a flat spot on the block, wipe it off real good and see.. Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 If you ordered a kit for the 79 200sx and you have an L-20b it should be the right parts.If you dont have the L-20b then that kit wont work.The L-16 and L-18 use a shorter chain because the block is shorter. Quote Link to comment
blackdeth666 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 yep its a L20. Not sure what its out of then. So as long as the timing set is for an L20 it should work? Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 Yes, as long as you have an L20 and its for one, it will work. Doesn't matter what year. The cam sprocket and crank sprocket are interchangeable. The guides/chain aren't. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Just because it's a 8 or 4 hole sprocket.....does not mean that it will be notched. I returned 3 TC kits...finally ended up with the 8 hole BA TC kit....no notches. :blink: Made my own...'transferred' notches from another sprocket I had. 4 hole BA....middle/right in pic ...."Sooo...the parts store called Beck Arnley to see why I got the 4 hole cam gear (with aligning notches that can't be viewed through the holes) instead of the 8 hole posted on their web site. Thanks to me... :D ....they will be changing that pic because the 8 holes are discontinued, no more will be made. The only 8 hole sprockets left out there are old stock....so grab them if you can. They also stated that the holes in the cam gear are for venting...and not for 'aligning' the cam gear to head.... :blink: Said I should call them and explain this necessity".... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 They also stated that the holes in the cam gear are for venting...and not for 'aligning' the cam gear to head.... :blink: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: "venting" Wahahahahaha...... oooooh fuck me!!!! Must have been a salesman that said that. Hehehehe tooo much. Thanks for sharing that Doug. Quote Link to comment
blackdeth666 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Thats so funny!!! Alright, to pull the chain cover off do I need to pull the distributer and oil pump? My manual is pretty vague. Also I'm stuck on getting the lower pulley off, do I need am impact for this or is there another way? I dont have air I'm my garage.... Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Yes, you need to remove the dizzy, and oil pump. No, you shouldn't need anything special to get the crank pulley off. Maybe a little encouragement from a pry bar (and i do mean LITTLE) or light taps with a hammer to nudge it off. Be sure to keep an eye on things when they come off. Also, if you can, try and leave the bolts hanging in the timing cover when you pull it off, and set it somewhere where they don't fall out. Makes it a lot easier when installing the timing cover :lol: You will need to remove the water pump as well, some of the bolts go thru to the block. Be sure and do as i posted earlier, setting it to TDC will save you a head ache when you re install the dizzy and oil pump. Everything has to line up, its not rocket science just something that needs to be done or should be if you are unfamiliar with this process. If you were close id just come over n lend a hand.... Quote Link to comment
blackdeth666 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Thanks for the heads up on the water pump, I would have missed those and wondered who jb welded the cover on! Haha Well I've called it a night, I sprayed penetrating oil on that lower pulley and ill give it a try in the morning. Also have to do valve guide seals while Ive got it all taken apart because its smoking like a bitch. Atleast I think thats why. My dumb ass just put the a new head on like 3 weeks ago because my old one dropped a valve seat and didn't replace the seals while it was off. now I've got to do it the hard way. It sucks being new to things. but I'm so thankful for ratsun! Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Thats so funny!!! Alright, to pull the chain cover off do I need to pull the distributer and oil pump? My manual is pretty vague. Also I'm stuck on getting the lower pulley off, do I need am impact for this or is there another way? I dont have air I'm my garage.... Well.... after returning 3 sets of TCs...the parts store somewhat jumped on this 'venting' info and stated I did't need those notches and would be better off buying a engine timing wheel instead.... :blink: I tried explaining the benefits of these notches...but fell on deaf ears. Most likely they suspected some lack of knowledge or mental deficiency on my part... :unsure: .... :D They have no clue Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 blackdeth666 I have always had good luck with my timming sets on getting the correct ones. I too have seen those Cam sprockets where you cant see the V notch. See the notch ,This would be handy in case you do a head gasket and forget to mark the chain. The V notch is there for cam timming REFERANCE. Have you watched this yet? Get Naked and eat some Cheetos. Orange Weiner is a normal reaction after watching this. So no need to see the Doctor. http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=8EF51386855F2B58 somebody showed that Carquest sells the OSK brand sets. Those are good also Tsubaki is another good set Quote Link to comment
blackdeth666 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Just finished the video, the only reason i hadnt watched it because the only internet i have is my phone! So im sitting at my parents on the computer haha! That was very helpful, thanks hainz. You must be local? heard u reference auburn. Picked up my kit this morning from NAPA and everything says made in japan on it. :D but no notches wtf? so i'll make my own like sealik did. well back to the garage now. thanks everyone for the help so far. much appreciated! I was wanting to drive the fucker off a clif yesterday but im feeling better after the vid and guidence Quote Link to comment
blackdeth666 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 btw I did grab the cheetos, no orange weiner but orange fingers for sure! Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 btw I did grab the cheetos, no orange weiner but orange fingers for sure! ya right! :rofl: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Make sure you can see the notches!!!!!!!!!thu the hole. IM in Covington. Kent east hill I dont get what Sealik did if you got a 3 or 4 hole that has the holes in the wrong spothow you going to see the notch.UNless you drill a big inspection hole to see it . The one on the right that Sealik says is wrong is the 1st 4 hole one I seen wrong. The see thru holes are like in the wrong spot. maybe it was setup in the machine wrong. maybe a new guy has been making these wrong for years and nobody is complaining???????? I have a 3 hole USA made one at home and just use it for show , Not waht to use. You can use it but youll have to hope you have a timming set with the brite links on the chain and use that as a basic guide and hope you makkr the chain if ever taken apart again and hope your not off a link once the chaine brite links wear out Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 How many holes...? Here's the 4 holes...1 good ....1 bad Quote Link to comment
blackdeth666 Posted May 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 Well heres pics of what I got. looks like I should be able to see the notches thru the holes. And here's a pic of the old timing chain, see the chunks missing??? it was a jap chain with the 2 brite links. Holding it up to the new chain it was atleast an eighth to 3/16 longer so thats gotta be why it was rattling around in there. Il be working on assembly tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 where you get the timming kit? Thats a good one rattling around could be the worn tensioner at the bottom also and make sure its a smooth arch on the slack side guide. also not alot of pressure on the slack side guid just enought to keep the tensioer all the way in and push the top part of the slack side guide watch vid again to make sure. Its EZ!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
blackdeth666 Posted May 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 hey hainz in your video I didnt see you pull off the lower timing chain gear, do i need a special puller to do this? i'm stuck on this. the kit was from NAPA. they had their 'house one' he first tried to sell (pic had 3 holes) then i asked if they had any other ones and this is what i got. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 hey hainz in your video I didnt see you pull off the lower timing chain gear, do i need a special puller to do this? i'm stuck on this. the kit was from NAPA. they had their 'house one' he first tried to sell (pic had 3 holes) then i asked if they had any other ones and this is what i got. Gear puller would be handy....but a pry bar will suffice. Work both sides of gear....gingerly Quote Link to comment
blackdeth666 Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I hit it with some p b blaster and tapped out off with a big screwdriver.gonna finish up tomorrow because "life"got in the way today. Haha! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 the lower should come off if the keys are lined up nicely. take note not to put it one backwards so the worm gear goes in the correct direction. How much was the timming kit? the crank sprokets usually dont wear much. the cam sprockets ussually has the most wear Quote Link to comment
blackdeth666 Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I figured if change out anyways since it came with the kit. It was $78 and I had to buy a gasket kit seperatly. Like ten more bucks. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I usually pry a screw driver behind it to get the sprocket off. PS I like the Felpro gasket kits. Schucks O Rileys sell them. Napa sells Victor Renz I believe. I like the Felpro better myself. Maybe cause its the nice blue looking color. Quote Link to comment
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