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Pacesetter header hits the torsion bar (z22 2wd)


heyman421

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EDIT: My truck is 2wd. Sorry for the confusion.

What am i doing wrong, here, i'm having a heck of a time getting this thing on my truck. I've verified that i ordered and received the correct header for 2wd (part #xxx2 and not #xxx3)

 

If you guys could help me out and tell me what i've done wrong, i'd greatly appreciate it!

 

img20110423161719.jpg

 

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img20110423161733.jpg

 

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The torsion bar is RIGHT in the middle of where the pipe needs to go. It's close enough that all 8 bolts line up with the head, but just enough in the way so that it wont sit flush.... :(

 

Could this have something to do with the particular ride height of my truck? Would raising or lowering it move the torsion bar out of my way?

 

I cut the EGR pipe to get the old manifold off, so there's no turning back at this point.

 

I have an appointment tomorrow to get an oil leak diagnosed & fixed, and i can't very well take it there without an exhaust. WORST EASTER EVER!

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What am i doing wrong, here? I know there's issues installing these pacesetter headers on 4wd trucks, but i'm having a heck of a time getting this thing on my truck. I've verified that i ordered and received the correct header for 2wd (part #xxx2 and not #xxx3)

 

Hmmm 2wd header on 4x4 truck. I think you've answered your own question. The 4x4 torsion bars are differently placed than on a 2wd truck. Not much but they are different.

 

 

The EGR pipe on the exhaust can be hammered flat and curled over with vice grips to seal well enough to drive it.If the EGR valve still works pull the hose off of it to keep it shut and plug the carb end. Done, no problem.

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Hmmm 2wd header on 4x4 truck. I think you've answered your own question. The 4x4 torsion bars are differently placed than on a 2wd truck. Not much but they are different.

 

Sorry about that, mentioning 4wd in my original post sounded more like "i know it's difficult to install headers on a 4wd, but i didn't expect problems on a 2wd" in my head.

 

My truck is a 2wd, and i can even read the 2wd part number in my 2nd picture (1112) , so i'm 100% sure i received the right part.

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:lol: Doesn't take much to make it sound different eh? Adjusting ride height won't fix it.

 

The bottom of the pipe needs to move toward the engine slightly correct? This will lift the header away from the head in the top bolt areas, correct? The thing is, it only takes a small amount at the top to make a big difference at the bottom. Maybe doublethe gaskets and tighten the bottom bolts more?

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Good lord, nothing ever goes right with this truck.

 

Thanks to everyone for your help, unfortunately I've been stuck at a family gathering with a dead cell phone battery so i couldn't get back to update.

 

datzenmike, you're correct in that the outlet needs to move towards the engine (passenger side) about 1/2 an inch or so, but radim's probably right about it being a broken or worn mount.

 

I've just recently been hearing a 'knock' immediately after coming to a complete stop, and a broken mount sounds about right...

 

I'm now completely out of my element, and i've unfortunately spent all my money repairing a blown headgasket with just enough left to fix the oil leak.

 

Is there an easy way to diagnose a broken motor mount? It would likely be on the passenger side, since it's raising the header towards the torsion bar. Are they easy to access, at least?

 

I likely don't possess the know-how to fix it myself, I'm just curious how big of an undertaking it's going to be to have someone fix it ...

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Good lord, nothing ever goes right with this truck.

 

Thanks to everyone for your help, unfortunately I've been stuck at a family gathering with a dead cell phone battery so i couldn't get back to update.

 

datzenmike, you're correct in that the outlet needs to move towards the engine (passenger side) about 1/2 an inch or so, but radim's probably right about it being a broken or worn mount.

 

I've just recently been hearing a 'knock' immediately after coming to a complete stop, and a broken mount sounds about right...

 

I'm now completely out of my element, and i've unfortunately spent all my money repairing a blown headgasket with just enough left to fix the oil leak.

 

Is there an easy way to diagnose a broken motor mount? It would likely be on the passenger side, since it's raising the header towards the torsion bar. Are they easy to access, at least?

 

I likely don't possess the know-how to fix it myself, I'm just curious how big of an undertaking it's going to be to have someone fix it ...

 

 

I doubt it's the MM...unless it's totally NFG, separated and dropped..........More pics of the MMs.

Pacesetter headers are not very good quality to begin with....unfortunately.

You will most likely have other issues down the road....so to speak... :D

Leaks at the head/header flange are at the top of the list

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Are they easy to access, at least?

 

 

 

I just realized how dumb this question was.

 

I don't even know what a motor mount looks like, but i can see the drivers side one in the second picture i posted.

 

Is that a legit mount 'cushion-y-thing?' That looks suspiciously not unlike the PO replaced a dried mount with some random piece of poly.

 

If that's thicker than it's supposed to be, that could be my problem right there.

 

Anyways, I'll take a look at the passenger side in the morning. I've decided i may as well enjoy my evening at this point.

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Easy way to check the mount. Put a block of wood on you floor jack and jack up the motor. The block of wood will help pan, don't jack the truck up...you'll break the mount :P

 

 

If you have some heat, oxy acetylene or the like, you can get a clean clearance bump in the pipe. That is if it doesn't fit properly.

 

I ran a set of pacesetter headers on my Jeep. Lasted 2 seasons...worth what I paid I guess :)

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Well, I'm embarrassed to have to tell you guys this, but I figured out my problem today.

 

The collector was, in fact, hitting the torsion bar. The reason, however, was because the #1 cylinder primary was hitting the motor mount clamshell.

 

I ended up 're-engineering' the pipe with a hammer about 1/8" and now it fits fine.

 

I'm still not impressed with how unnecessarily tight the clearances of the header are in a few spots, or the way the included pipes are routed, but at least I can get back on the road.

 

Thanks again for all of your help, anyways. I probably would have just lit the truck on fire, had I not had somewhere to vent my frustration.

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