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72 pl521 Brake Master Cylinder needed


dross93ranger

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There's some info out there, but it would take longer to read it than to actually do the mod. :)

 

Basically, you'll have to slot the holes on the new m/c slightly....elongate them toward the body of the m/c just a bit...to get them to slip over the firewall studs. You'll also need to open up the hole in the firewall just a bit too. This can be done with a round or half round file in a couple of minutes, or you can use a die grinder or dremel. Mounting the m/c is the easy part. You'll need to fabricate a pushrod because the new one will use a completely different style than the stock one. Here's a recent thread that should show you enough to make your own :)

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30419-master-cyl-upgrade-push-rod-build-mklotz70/

 

 

I referenced the '77 620 m/c, but you'll find that it's bleeder valves are on the same side as the clutch m/c.....and it's a really tight fit. I typically opt for the '78 280zx m/c. The vavles are on the engine side, but the bore is bigger and it will take more leg to push the brake pedal. It's also a disc/drum m/c, but I know of a couple of guys that have put them on their drum/drum setup. In this thread....http://community.ratsun.net/topic/27500-disc-brake-mc-conversion-question/ ....yello620 makes a reference at one point that the drum/drum m/c from the earlier 280z is the same part number as the next model's disc/drum m/c.

 

 

I just did a bit of digging on Rockauto.com....looks like the '75 610 m/c has the valves on the eng side and a 3/4" bore. It was a disc/drum car. I think it would keep your leg effort minimal and work fine with drum/drum. I certainly not an expert on brakes, but my best guess is the disc m/c should still work okay with the drum setup. Hopefully, someone else will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong. Anyway..... if you decide to upgrade to disc brakes, you won't have to mess with the m/c again. :) Now would also be a good time to put in an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear circuit.

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I just doubled checked on RA.....the '77 620 was actually a disc/drum setup.....you'd want the '76 620 if you want to go with a drum/drum m/c. The valves are tight, you you can cut the nipples off the bleeder valves for clearance, you just won't be able to put a hose on them....which you won't have room for anyway :)

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I'd also recommend getting the brake light switch off another rig...ie 620.....and mount it on your brake pedal assy. It will activate your brake lights much faster than the pressure switch it uses currently.

 

This link should/may...take you to a folder in my photobucket with a couple of pics of the switch mount on my old NL and the differences between the pushrods.

 

http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/mklotz70/NL320/Brakes/#!cpZZ3QQtppZZ24

 

 

Wiring in the new switch is easy. Couple of bullet connectors on new wire running to the new switch. The bullets will plug directly into the stock wiring on the firewall so you don't even have to modify the stock harness. :)

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