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jnec510

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unless it was spec for your rig and motor I would AVIOD it.

a 510 long tube L16/18 will hit the floor on a L20b truck. Or maybe have torsion bar in the way.

If anything find a 521 exhaust manifold with the Y pipe still attached(I would hope it clears the torsion bar.

 

ted(tdajj) has one in Yelm

 

Buy a short tube header if you JUST GOT TO HAVE ONE from Top End Performance.then get ot ceramic coated(another 100$)

chromexheader_thumb.jpg

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Get a good 'un-smog' L16 exhaust manifold.

 

Here's what you get for headers

You get to pay $100 or more for them.

You get to spend a day removing a torsion bar, motor mount, intake and exhaust manifold, jack up motor for clearance, cut up a perfectly good exhaust down pipe, find extra washers to match the intake flange, wrestle it into position, quit for the night 'cause of darkness.

You get to spend the next day finishing putting it in. (assuming there's no vacuum or water leak from the intake gasket)

You get to listen to increased noise in the cab and glares from neighbors. (this might be a positive thing for you?)

You get to wonder where is the extra 10 to 15 'extra' horse power from all that work and money spent? Don't be fooled.... noise is NOT horse power!

You get to re-tighten the collector bolts that loosen every two and a half weeks.

You get to look at all that rust on it in six months.

You get to wonder why you bothered in the first place.

You'd like to take it off and throw away but you now don't have the old manifold, the down pipe is cut and it's WAY too much damn work.

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Get a good 'un-smog' L16 exhaust manifold.

 

Here's what you get for headers

You get to pay $100 or more for them.

You get to spend a day removing a torsion bar, motor mount, intake and exhaust manifold, jack up motor for clearance, cut up a perfectly good exhaust down pipe, find extra washers to match the intake flange, wrestle it into position, quit for the night 'cause of darkness.

You get to spend the next day finishing putting it in. (assuming there's no vacuum or water leak from the intake gasket)

You get to listen to increased noise in the cab and glares from neighbors. (this might be a positive thing for you?)

You get to wonder where is the extra 10 to 15 'extra' horse power from all that work and money spent? Don't be fooled.... noise is NOT horse power!

You get to re-tighten the collector bolts that loosen every two and a half weeks.

You get to look at all that rust on it in six months.

You get to wonder why you bothered in the first place.

You'd like to take it off and throw away but you now don't have the old manifold, the down pipe is cut and it's WAY too much damn work.

 

you sound like youre talking from experience :lol:

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Headers rule.

You get more clearance for screwing with nuts and bolts.

You dont have to work on something heavy.

You get a tiny bit of satisfaction knowing that someday you might shell out enough money to put something in front of it worth it being useful.

I like the long tube but I also like the stocker.Cant knock a header if there are no scrap yards around.Who wants to ship a cast exh. mani?!

Also the cool factor.$150 for a life time of"yeah,its got a header".(oh,and 113 hp)

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The exhaust guy I was going to use has a 620 KC with L20b, no internet access otherwise he would be here, with a stock cast iron manifold. From the dual outlet he runs twin downpipes about 2' before they merge into a single system. He reckons it gives better lowdown torque then headers, with less noise and more durability. In my case it also meant I could retain the smog equipment and stay legal.

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From the dual outlet he runs twin downpipes about 2' before they merge into a single system.

 

i saw this before, dual exhaust :lol:, thought the guy had a V motor, till he opened the hood and saw the stock L16.

he said it got him 20 more HP :blink: but he still couldnt beat a stock L20b.

 

 

unless the head is matched for a header, the cast mani is great.

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what about this setup...

 

L16 block - stock rebuild

A87 210 head - rebuilt, do-it-yourself in-garage port job

L20 camshaft

Weber 32/36 carb w/port matched manifold

 

*rebuilt and running like new, do you think that a Shorty header w/2" custom exhaust would make a difference at this point? i'm going to rebuild the engine I've got and put in an L20 cam. I'm going to spray-paint the gaskets and port match the top end. The carb will be rebuilt again and everything cleaned up and put back together nice and neatly.

 

right now my exhaust is shot, and everything up to the upper manifold needs to be replaced as it is, so i'm kinda thinking i want to add a header to the mix while i'm at it... i'm going to have the whole engine/tranny pulled out anyways in order to replace the clutch and rear main seal, so i'm going a bit above and beyond whats needed to make it a little bit peppier.

 

I'm kinda just thinking out loud, but I am trying to put together a price list of how much everything is going to cost, and how much down-time i'm going to have with my truck.

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A87 210 head ???

Its one or the other. I would chose the A87 over a stock L16 210 head.why the intake valves are bigger.

 

Is it worth swapping in a L20 Cam. make sure you have the rockersarms from the same spot it was removed from ans installed to the same lobe fwhere it was taken from.!!!!!!!!

 

matter of fact just put in a L18(can use same clutch set up) or L20.

 

Jeff just throw away a hole buch of L motor blocks last weekend L16-20s. Where were you?

 

hes beggin people to come get the stuff. Offer some cash. Otherwise its going to the dump

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Thanks Daniel, thats really the answer I was looking for.

 

It's an A87 head, but it says "210" on the side of it, that's why I wrote it. I've been told by several people it's an L18 head.

 

I'm getting an L20 head w/cam for free, so why not use it is what I'm thinking?

 

Is there a block that would be better to use over another with the head/other parts that I have?

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well

I was think if Jeff had a L18 block and your going to rebuild yours anyways why not start with a bigger motor. or just chose to have another block incase the L16 is bad after you tear it apart. Not that it will be bad. I seen L20s that are bad when they crack between the center headbolt area(water passage).

 

I thought A78 is on the spark plug side. I never seen A87 and 210 on a head but if you say so Then I believe you.

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I don't know that it says "A87" on the head... but FiveOneOh Ray, DatDoug, and Doug's neighbor, who I bought the truck from have all told me it's a newer head. Actually, I just ran out and looked at it again, and the "210" is on the top of the block... Ray just looked at it and said that I have an A87 head?

 

I'm calling Jeff to see if there's something I can figure out, but you're right, I may as well start with the bigger block. And if he's got a decent one I can fix/clean up, that will save a day or so of down-time once I do pull the engine/tranny out to work on it.

 

Thanks for the info!!!

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If it says 210 it is a 210 head.They were either stamped in the usual location or on the front.If it does not say a87 it is not,no matter what anybody says.

A l16 is ok with a larger port/valve head with a bigger cam..450 or bigger.

Still not stock l20b power but fun enough.

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