Weber Woes

[VintageRice]

I recently went through my new-to-me weber 32/36. Sprayed it out with carb claner and blew out all the passages with the air compressor. Then installed the basic carb kit with new acel pump diaphram and gaskets.

 

I put the carb on my car and I can't see any gas spraying out of the venturis. There should be a nice steady stream when you twist the linkage shouldn't there??

 

I poured a little gas down the carb and the car ran for a few seconds. Then dies. It's like its not getting any fuel at all.

 

The carb was pretty old and in kida rough shape. Definatley was dirty, but I thought I did a pretty good job cleaning it.

 

However I didn't realize the emulshon(SP) tubes came out until after when I was looking at pictures. Could this be a problem?

 

 

I need help here people, I really dont want to but a whole new carb. I thought these things were supposed to be simple!!

 

Also, as far as adjustments go, there's only the mixtures scew and idle screw that you cant adjust right? all the rest of the jet's/screws you just seat down tight correct??

 

 

 

 

Help please.

[izzo]

They could be clogged up, might cause that. when car is off and you turn throttle by hand, it will squirt some down in there but it wont be a stead stream. least i've never seen it.

 

Better to wait for someone with more experience to chime on. Wouldn't think it'd be to hard to pull the top of the carb off and pull the emulsion tubes out.

[808DA6]

I put my money on the carb still being blocked. You could soak it (the whole carb) in cleaner. Don't know what its called, but its sold in a "paint" can. Would also be good to remove all the jets (make sure you know where each one goes.) Old gas gets really nasty. I just went thru the same process. Great results.

 

-B

[metalmonkey47]

I put my money on the carb still being blocked. You could soak it (the whole carb) in cleaner. Don't know what its called, but its sold in a "paint" can. Would also be good to remove all the jets (make sure you know where each one goes.) Old gas gets really nasty. I just went thru the same process. Great results.

 

-B

 

I think what you're referring to is Berryman carb parts cleaner. That stuff is expensive , but works like a charm. You can buy it at any auto parts store.

 

Pull the jets and check the condition of them. Like 808DA6 said, old gas is nasty.

 

 

 

 

http://berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146

[steve g]

I think what you're referring to is Berryman carb parts cleaner. That stuff is expensive , but works like a charm. You can buy it at any auto parts store.

 

Pull the jets and check the condition of them. Like 808DA6 said, old gas is nasty.

 

 

 

 

http://berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146

Do as theey said... take it all apart again.... the accelerator pump passage has a few tight turns to make... can be very hard to unblock, i suggest using a piece of wire strand to slide into the orfice.

[VintageRice]

Ok, sounds like I'll be trying it again. I'll go pick up some chem-dip tomorrow maybe. Thanks guys.

[dryheat]

When I rebuilt my weber I found a filter stuffed inside of the brass fuel inlet barb that was really clogged. I removed it and it worked much better.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Accell pump

Im reaching on this one put does the diaphrame look like its installed right(inside out?). so it pushes IN.

 

the linkage arem is pushin IN on the pump? sometimes they get stuck in the IN mode

 

Fuel pump pumping gas by chance? if accell pump dont work another thought is float bowl is empty

[VintageRice]

I took everything that had a screw head on it OUT of the carb. It was completely dissembled. I put a brand new accel pump diaphragm in it. It's in correct. The arm IS actuating and the fuel pump works great, good pressure, fills a quart mixing cup fast. Bowls have gas.

 

There has got to be a clogged passage I missed or something else I have no idea about. I hate carbs.....

[banzai510(hainz)]

Then IF ACCELL PUMP STILL DONT WORK IT HAS TO BE A PASSEAGE

 

yes all else to adjust is the mixture,speed scew and mayeb the choke if it was fucked with(electric)

[VintageRice]

Ok, My Napa buddy let me take home his personal copy of the Weber book. So I'm going to make copys of all the useful pages. :D

 

Got some more carb cleaner. He explained to me a little better what my issues may be. I'm headed down to the shop now to tear into it again. Hope for the best. ;)

[VintageRice]

Good news, kinda.

 

I got it to idle, kinda lol

 

Anyway, I sprayed out a few passages and everything seems good right. But I still get no gas coming from the main accel nozzle. With the nozzle out, a little gas spits out from the hole, but it's random and weak. Almost like its splashing. Hard to explain but I think there's still an accelerator issue.

 

I adjusted the idle mixture screw out another turn so now its 3-4 turns out. The tuning manual recommends starting with 2 turns for a base line. The car now starts easy, fires right up!!! But. If you give it any throttle it boggs out. If you holt the choke closed though, it'll rev up and stay there as long as you hold the choke closed and the throttle open. It's obviously not getting enough fuel still.

 

Any suggestions besides buying a new carb? :blink:

 

Video is uploading to youtube as I type. Will post it asap.

[VintageRice]

BTW I looked into getting the carb dip. They had a gallon at napa for $20. Asked the guy if it works good and he said the EPA made them change the formula a while back so it doesn't work like it used to. They used to say soak it overnight for best results. Now he said that you should only do it 4-6 hrs or else it gets a film on everything. Thats just what I need is another film built up on the carb. So I'm trying my other options first....

[VintageRice]

Video.

 

[datzenmike]

Jet plugged or too lean a size.

[metalmonkey47]

Off topic, in the video your choke plates look super loose. You sure it's together right?

 

Also, where did this carb come from?

 

 

 

And last: The carb dip works just the same as always. I have a 5 year old gallon in my garage thats left over from an engine rebuild years back that still works like a charm. It is corrosive if left soaking too long, just like purple power. It's also very dangerous to the environment.

Edited January 30, 2011 by metalmonkey47

[izzo]

maybe vacuum leak? spray brake cleaner around base of carb, and sides, and on manifold side towards head. might be a small leak. Datzenmike is probably right, but i had same problems when i installed my weber, turned out to be a vacuum leak tho. once i got that taken care of it ran GREAT

[VintageRice]

Yeah, the choke plates arent hooked up to anything at the moment. Theres some linkage missing or something but it's just flopping in the wind for now.

 

Got the carb from a guy on here.

 

I may have to do the carb dip after all.

 

Heck if I keep buying carb cleaner and rebuild kits I could have just bought a new one!! (slightly exaggerated)

[banzai510(hainz)]

Got the carb from a guy on here.??

thats the proplem.

 

 

I notice a tube comming off the intake manifold. It looks like its going to the brakes. But the brakes dont look like power assist(brake booster) if not whats it kooked to? I usually just plug this up.

 

 

was car ruuning good before the carb swap? if not I would ck the oil pump spindal to make sure its timmmed correct.

maybe your running out of time. One way to know if you distributor is cranked all the way to on side to get it to run.

[VintageRice]

The hose is pluged and not going to the brake. Its just a long piece of hose i didnt want to cut up yet. It's plugged with a bolt.

 

This is really my first attempt at getting this car running. I bought it non running with su's. I had it run for a few seconds but pouring gas in the su's before but that's it.

 

Funny you ask about the dizzy. It IS cranked all the way clockwise to get'er to run the best. Maybe I'll look into that next. Is there a good article on adjusting this??

[banzai510(hainz)]

well if You dont know if the car was running OK before the carb swap is good for US to know.Since many 510s dont actually run when a new owner picks it up. Its good to ck if the cam /dizzy spindal or distributor is aligned coorrectly. If its off its usually a case of soembody doing a timming chain install or maybe a headgasket swap. or sometimes a mismatch distributor mount.

 

 

when it idles you need to tell us the timming(timming light) and if the dist is cranked to one side hard.

 

you need to put motor on TDC at the cranl and see where the rotor points at.

 

this well help you, save it on your computer

http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=8EF51386855F2B58

 

 

also if you tighten the carb nut in back of linkage too tight I seen it bind . Just loosen it if everything cks out in the timming dept.

 

 

Funny you ask about the dizzy. It IS cranked all the way clockwise to get'er to run the best

One way to cheat the sytem is remove the 10mm bolt holding the dist and using both hand slowly rtate the dist and get it gas and see if it still stalls out.

 

also another guy oon here was rewiring hes 510, He has points but no ballast resisitor. he would gas it and cut out. He put a ballast on and then it ran OK.

I see you have another coil in there. If its to low ohm a coil if could be arching out under the dizzy cap. but I think this is more on the unlikely side. stock 510 coil is 1.6 ohms and a 1.6 ohm ballast with a point dist