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Don't know about the block.

 

Cars have a front sump pan that won't clear the truck's front steering. D-21 truck KA have a rear sump pan that clears better. However the truck intake looks more like for a carb mount with a vertical throttle body. If possible use the intake from a car. Use a car KA wire harness because it's separate from the rest of the car's wire harness, The truck EFI harness is mixed in with the rest of the front truck harness and difficult to sort out. Car motors use fully floating piston pins where truck motors do not.

 

Best is a car KA, harness and ECU and a truck rear sump pan and pickup. Be sure to get an ECU from an automatic.

Thanks that helps a lot. Also what it the purpose of using the auto ecu?

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The transmission does not have a speedo cable, instead it has a speed sensor with an electrical output to the ECU that computes speed. The manual ECU has a rev limiter built in and gets confused if there is no speed sensor input. I'm probably not explaining it correctly but the rev limiter will act erratically cutting in and out. The rev limiter is for standards where human error (or poor hand eye coordination) results in a missed shift and a 9K over rev. Autos are in gear at all times and never miss a shift. :lol:

 

 

(All Non California)

1989 auto ECUs 9.1 compression

A11 A42G41

C11 BO8G54

 

1989 auto ECUs 8.6 compression

A11 BO3G40

A11 B16GO3

A11 B16G12

A11 B16G17

 

1990 auto ECUs

A11 B16GO3

A11 B16G12

A11 B16G17

A11 B99G54

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On a B and C type you could but this is an F4W63L and the case doesn't come apart. It does have a closer ratio gear set for someone racing stock 510/610/710 or L20B A10s. You would have to dismantle it and remove everything.

 

Note the smooth case and bell

Z20A-10F4W63NAPS002.jpg

 

 

Here one from a 610/710

F4W63long.jpg

 

 

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