nathan_454 Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 well I just pulled the trigger and ordered everything to rebuild the front end of my 720. I will feel better knowing its all new. it shakes and vibrates and bounces like crazy now. should really tighten it up. If you guys want I can take pics of the teardown/rebuild process if you would like? I ordered - 2 - Outer tie rods 2 - Inner tie rods 2 - Tie rod sleeves 1 - Idler arm 1 - Center link 4 - Upper control arm bushings 2 - Upper balljoints 4 - Lower control arm bushings 2 - lower balljoints 1 - set of sway bar bushings 2 - sway bar endlink kits 2 - Front shocks so pretty much everything LOL Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted September 6, 2010 Report Share Posted September 6, 2010 yea as always, take lots of pics. help a lot when new ppl coma asking questions. then we can be refered back to this Quote Link to comment
lardlungs Posted September 6, 2010 Report Share Posted September 6, 2010 yeah, i wanna see this get done Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 14, 2010 Report Share Posted September 14, 2010 All those new parts & old king pins? :huh: Quote Link to comment
kaoss Posted September 14, 2010 Report Share Posted September 14, 2010 720's had king pins??? Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 14, 2010 Report Share Posted September 14, 2010 720's had king pins??? No, 720's do not have king pins. Quote Link to comment
kaoss Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 Whoops, I forgot the /sarcasm. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Sorrry eyes are getting bad did not realize 720. Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 somebody shcool me on ekingpins, my steering is sloppy and i was gonna get a new idler arm, i understand the pitman arm is ureplaceable, so does anybody have a diagram of a 620 front end showing the tie rods, idler, and everything? i need to get my steering tight because it sucks rolling around corners at high speeds, i need to do all of this when i do my disc brakes and titans. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Whoops, I forgot the /sarcasm. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 well I just pulled the trigger and ordered everything to rebuild the front end of my 720. I will feel better knowing its all new. it shakes and vibrates and bounces like crazy now. should really tighten it up. If you guys want I can take pics of the teardown/rebuild process if you would like? I ordered - 2 - Outer tie rods 2 - Inner tie rods 2 - Tie rod sleeves 1 - Idler arm 1 - Center link 4 - Upper control arm bushings 2 - Upper balljoints 4 - Lower control arm bushings 2 - lower balljoints 1 - set of sway bar bushings 2 - sway bar endlink kits 2 - Front shocks so pretty much everything LOL How much.....?.....and yes....... pics are mandatory ;) :D Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 somebody shcool me on ekingpins, my steering is sloppy and i was gonna get a new idler arm, i understand the pitman arm is ureplaceable, so does anybody have a diagram of a 620 front end showing the tie rods, idler, and everything? i need to get my steering tight because it sucks rolling around corners at high speeds, i need to do all of this when i do my disc brakes and titans. It's not that the pitman is unreplacable, it's solid metal and doesn't wear out. The ball joints on the ends of the tie rods (4) and the joining cross rod (2) do wear out along with the idler arm bushings. The steering box itself can wear slightly but to a point this can be adjusted to remove some of the gear slop. The steering ratio in the box on the 620 is 19 to one so if all of your ball joints and idler arm slack or looseness totaled up to only 1/8" this would translate to 2 3/8" of steering wheel play!!! Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 sounds like that is my problem mike, its pretty sloppy, im buying tires this week, and im saving to do disc brakes in the front and when i do that im going to replace the idler arm and anything alse i can get at, and if i have money left over im gonna try and get a rear sway bar. when i was at the parts store they had a picture showing you all the steering components, does anyone have a diagram to help me identify everything, so that when i order from rock auto i make sure and get all i need? i knwo idler arm at least and various bushings. also i guess taking the truck to an alignment shop wouldnt be a bad idea either? i really dont trust any alignment shop though. also can somone elaborate on the pinto shock mod???? my truck rides a bit rough. i knwo it will be worse when iget the titans on Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 on rock auto it shows tie rods, some are inner and outer tie rod ends and some are the whole assembly??? im guessing moog has an essembly design? i need to go out and look at my truck. also why would you need a new centerlink???? this cant wear out unless it stretches??? its a big rod with threads on either end. Quote Link to comment
rollinsrods Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 on rock auto it shows tie rods, some are inner and outer tie rod ends and some are the whole assembly??? im guessing moog has an essembly design? i need to go out and look at my truck. also why would you need a new centerlink???? this cant wear out unless it stretches??? its a big rod with threads on either end. Accidents are notorious for jacking up steering components. Quote Link to comment
kmc63 Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 on rock auto it shows tie rods, some are inner and outer tie rod ends and some are the whole assembly??? im guessing moog has an essembly design? i need to go out and look at my truck. also why would you need a new centerlink???? this cant wear out unless it stretches??? its a big rod with threads on either end. I would like to know the answer to the question about the center-link also,Datzenmike? Quote Link to comment
mikec Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 i did exactly this in my 720 about 6 months ago. i had an awful popping sound so i bought the whole sha-bam from moog/energysuspension.com. wasn't very cheap...think i can get oem parts for my e30 for less. anyways, IIRC, the centerlink has balljoints that hookup either to the inner tie rods or the idler/steering gear. they are built-in to the link so you have to buy the whole bitch. i think it was the most expensive thing i purchased. turns out my c-link balljoints were snug, but i changed it anyways. i had my gear rebuilt too (to fix my sloppy wheel play) but it's about the same, even with a whole new front end. that was extremely disappointing for me. turns out the pop was from an extremely worn lca joint. the thing rides very tight now though, minus the wheel play. the biggest bitch is getting all the stuff OUT. removal of the suspension components took me literally days while the install took me maybe a couple hours. if you don't want to pay for alignment, count your tie rod turns carefully. i did, and hit it dead-on when i had it checked. just my .02 if i remember i payed around $500+ for my suspension stuff. i definitely wouldn't have done it all for the results i achieved. if you want any pics of the process, i think i documented it on my phone - just lmk. mike Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 as far as i could tell everything for the front of a 620 minus king pin kits totals up to like 200 something? maybe less? let me go to rock auto and find out. also can anyone please please please comment on the pinto shock mod????? damn i keep blowing brand new monroes. my rear shocks dont bottom out (that i know of) but my front ones do all the time. i have my bumpstops removed. I swear i will do a how to write up pic heavy if someone tells me what to buy!!! Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 i did exactly this in my 720 about 6 months ago. i had an awful popping sound so i bought the whole sha-bam from moog/energysuspension.com. wasn't very cheap...think i can get oem parts for my e30 for less. anyways, IIRC, the centerlink has balljoints that hookup either to the inner tie rods or the idler/steering gear. they are built-in to the link so you have to buy the whole bitch. i think it was the most expensive thing i purchased. turns out my c-link balljoints were snug, but i changed it anyways. i had my gear rebuilt too (to fix my sloppy wheel play) but it's about the same, even with a whole new front end. that was extremely disappointing for me. turns out the pop was from an extremely worn lca joint. the thing rides very tight now though, minus the wheel play. the biggest bitch is getting all the stuff OUT. removal of the suspension components took me literally days while the install took me maybe a couple hours. if you don't want to pay for alignment, count your tie rod turns carefully. i did, and hit it dead-on when i had it checked. just my .02 if i remember i payed around $500+ for my suspension stuff. i definitely wouldn't have done it all for the results i achieved. if you want any pics of the process, i think i documented it on my phone - just lmk. mike you shouldnt have to have your steeing gearbox rebuilt, i mean how many turns of the steering wheel before it actually wears the gears??????? your rear end turns a billion trillion times more than your gearbox and it doesnt hardly wear at all. you might need to adjust the gear lash but other than that it shouldnt wear unless you hit something hard with your front end, then maybe you might bust a gear??? mike comment on this please. alsi correct me if i am wrong but the 720 front end uses ball joints and a 620 doesnt? 720's arent king pin are they??? i thought they were coil over? maybe i am wrong. it seems to reason that is why it costs so much more to rebuld the whole front end of a 720 vs a 620. Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 i just went to rock auto and everything including 50 bucks shipping was 180 bucks. this included the centerlink with both ends on it, both tie rod assemblys, and an idler arm. i already replaced my shocks but i need the pinto shocks. i would try and do the king pins but from what i understand you have to press out and press in some bushings??? also i did not include the control arm bushings nor the sway bar bushings or end links. that stuff is 20 or 30 bucks. Quote Link to comment
mikec Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 you shouldnt have to have your steeing gearbox rebuilt, i mean how many turns of the steering wheel before it actually wears the gears??????? your rear end turns a billion trillion times more than your gearbox and it doesnt hardly wear at all. you might need to adjust the gear lash but other than that it shouldnt wear unless you hit something hard with your front end, then maybe you might bust a gear??? mike comment on this please. alsi correct me if i am wrong but the 720 front end uses ball joints and a 620 doesnt? 720's arent king pin are they??? i thought they were coil over? maybe i am wrong. it seems to reason that is why it costs so much more to rebuld the whole front end of a 720 vs a 620. sorry i have been in school and haven't looked at this forum in a while. there was a lot of slack coming out of the steering gear itself, so i had it rebuilt in an effort to tighten everything up - which it didn't. this is a non-ps truck, so i figured after 200k it may help, plus i was trying to do a very thorough rebuilt front end. the center link was pretty expensive iirc...i bought off energysuspension. the refresh on my bmw was way cheaper... Quote Link to comment
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