fluids

[Chingon 510]

hey guys well i want to do a oil changes on all my car, fresh rebuilt dl16, what oil should i run? trans is a 280z trans what fluid?. and rear end fluid?

thanks for the help guys

[INDY510]

Freshly rebuilt dL16 in a 510? ........ I use 20W-50 in my L18......... maybe use 10W-40 if it's freshly rebuilt?

 

 

80W-90: ...Will work for both trans. and diff................. some people use some molly in the diff. though

[datzenmike]

GL-4 80 W 90 in transmission GL-5 80 X 90 in differential. Do not mix them up. Do not let someone tell you the GL-5 is better than GL-4 for transmissions!!!!!

 

Fresh rebuild run anything you like. 10 W 30 is fine for break-in. Check and keep full, carry extra. Do not baby it. Drive it!!! Lots of acceleration through the gears. No lugging around town no extreme revving. Take out on empty highway and accelerate hard from 40 to 70 (if safe to do so) in 4th gear. Allow engine to slow down by itself and hit it again. 10 or 20 times to start. This should be done as soon as possible after the first start up. Drive it like you normally would, even harder, do not baby it for the first 500 miles. Change the oil and filter after a hundred miles to get all the fine particles of worn in metal out of the motor.

[LenRobertson]

This thread has detailed and important info on trans oil:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/20936-manual-transmission-fluid/

 

Len

[Chingon 510]

thanks for the input guys, and quantity for trans and diff, is till it flows out on its own correct?. and for engine oil abiut 4 1/2 qrts?

 

 

[LenRobertson]

thanks for the input guys, and quantity for trans and diff, is till it flows out on its own correct?. and for engine oil abiut 4 1/2 qrts?

 

Yes, the level for both is to the bottom of the fill hole.

 

Start with 4 1/2 quarts and see if that looks okay on the dipstick after the engine has run and then cooled down so all the oil is back in the pan. This page: http://olddatsuns.com/620specs.htm says 5 qt with filter, but maybe trucks had a slightly different capacity.

 

Len

[Chingon 510]

thanks for the feedback guys..

 

 

[INDY510]

Take out on empty highway and accelerate hard from 40 to 70 (if safe to do so) in 4th gear. Allow engine to slow down by itself and hit it again. 10 or 20 times to start.

 

So your'e saying I should stop driving like that now?............ .. people give me the wierdest looks when I buzz by them at 80mph in a 1975 orange goon....... :lol:

[datzenmike]

The worst thing is to baby a new motor. The rings need to be thrust against the cylinder walls to wear them in properly and make a gas tight seal maximizing compression and reducing blow-by.

 

When I was looking for a car the dealer threw me the keys to a new '70 Dart and said to take for a spin. Then he had one of the young mechanics go with me. :lol: Thing is, I smoked the tires and the mechanic just urged me on so I drove the living fuck out of it and returned to the dealer suitably impressed. I did notice that the speedo was not working and the mileage was 50 miles. (usually a new car only has 4-5 miles on it) The dealer disconnected the speedo to keep the miles down I bet. When it was prepped and I took delivery it was working. So I bought it and let me say it was a fast car. I ran similar Darts with same engine, tranny and rear axle ratio and mine was just plain faster. Had it to 140 many times and once to 6,250 RPMs in 4th, which was just over a buck fifty. The point is that every kid in that town had probably had that car out for a test ride and just hammered on it. This seated the rings perfectly and gave excellent compression and power later when I had it. Won a lot of street races with that car.

[Chingon 510]

 

WILL THIS WORK ON TRANS OR REAR END?

 

 

[Chingon 510]

ANYONE?

[hang_510]

blocked, so no comment

[Chingon 510]

wait huh?

 

 

[datsunaholic]

Not enough of the label visible to tell what the GL type is. Unless you google the stuff and find out.

[datzenmike]

If it says Valvoline Duragear then it's GL-4. All Valvoline HD were GL-5 that I found

[I'm BLUE]

. Had it to 140 many times and once to 6,250 RPMs in 4th, which was just over a buck fifty. Won a lot of street races with that car.

 

Mph or KPH ? 6,250 RPMs on a pushrod engine :blink: :unsure:

 

What was the 4th gear ratio ? Size of tires ? Rear Diff Gearing ?

 

I am a Mopar Fan :D

[Chingon 510]

 

DOES THIS HELP?

 

 

[datsunaholic]

I wouldn't use it in a transmission. Rear axle, yes.

[Chingon 510]

but y not if it says its like gl4 also

 

 

[datsunaholic]

Because it's not marked Yellow Metal safe.

 

Not all GL4 gear oils are yellow metal safe.

 

The problem is there is so much conflicting info. Valvoline claims the GL4/GL5 MT1 works for both. Other manufacturers state the 2 oils (GL4 and GL5) are incompatible and should never be mixed (Castrol, for one). Some claim the difference is in the amount of additives- GL5 having twice as much as GL4. Some claim GL5 is a replacement for GL4 (it's not).

 

The truth is that the GL rating is a minimum standard; oils can go above the "standard" for minimums and below the standard for maximums. But the standards are set by intended use- GL5 is intended as a high-pressure gear oil, in differentials. GL4 is intended for synchronized transmissions and moderate pressure. MT1 is intended for non-synchro transmissions. The reason GL4 is hardly found anymore is because most modern manual transmissions use ATF as the oil.

 

For some reason Valvoline markets their stuff as "one size fits all" and all that means is it exceeds the requirements for all of them. They also claim they use a different additive than the others.

 

It's your choice on who to believe.

 

 

But if you think that's bad, try finding GL1 gear oil. That's basically almost no additive oil, and it's what my big Deuce is supposed to use. The EP additives of GL5 will destroy that transmission, so folks tend to use GL4 as much as possible.

 

 

I found this online:

 

What's the difference?

[Chingon 510]

kool thanks for the tip well thats the only thing i had and my trans was dry so i put that in for now but now that you educated me i will try and find GL4. ill try napa

 

 

[datzenmike]

Mph or KPH ? 6,250 RPMs on a pushrod engine :blink: :unsure:

 

What was the 4th gear ratio ? Size of tires ? Rear Diff Gearing ?

 

I am a Mopar Fan :D

 

3.21 diff E7014 tires. 340 motor, stock hydraulic cam. It would go 24.5MPH per 1,000 RPMs in 4th. It was 1970, there were no KPH back then. :lol:

[I'm BLUE]

3.21 diff E7014 tires. 340 motor, stock hydraulic cam. It would go 24.5MPH per 1,000 RPMs in 4th. It was 1970, there were no KPH back then. :lol:

 

:devil: NNNNNNNNNNNIIIIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCCCCCEEEEEEEEE !!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cool: :thumbup:

 

I know someone that has 2.56 gearing in his 9" diff for his 69 mustang , ^^^ Yeah just like you implied , enough power and it will haul ass ............ you mopar crazy canadian you ! God Bless You Sir !!!!!! :rofl:

 

I would pay money to see that youtubed :lol: ( seriously ! )

 

340 six pack = :cool: