REAR DISC CONVERSION 71 DATSUN 510

[ANM21977]

Ok, I have a 71 510 and have found the parts needed to do a maxima caliper with a 200sx rotor setup for the rear brake conversion. I have 280zx struts for the front and was planning on runnig with the brake setup that goes with it. I was wondering if a 280zx brake master cyl and booster is what I would need to properly distribute the right amount of pressure for the front and the rear brakes. Any input anyone can provide would be appreciated.

 

here are the links for the setup im speaking of:

http://www.datsuns.c...510brackets.htm

[Skib]

double posts are not necessary, thanks ;)

[ANM21977]

double posts are not necessary, thanks ;)

My bad I forgot about the brake section. Any input?

[freaky510]

try a search it has been covered many times. I did a Ratsun job and a couple guys make a bracket. :rolleyes:

[Dime Dave]

I asked (more like polled) the Bluebird List a couple days ago on the same topic as I have the 280ZX/Maxima brakes going onto a street car.

 

The most popular was the 7/8" master from a 280Z with no booster. It didn't seem to matter if the rear brakes were disc or stock drums.

 

Boosters, the 280ZX was noted as being too big a diameter to fit, the clutch master is too close to use it. I believe the only boosters that will fit are the small diameter B210/610 boosters. Also it was suggested that the 15/16" master be used with the booster.

[Skib]

Also it was suggested that the 15/16" master be used with the booster.

 

 

the 15/16 master is the stocker for the 280zx

[ANM21977]

Thank you all for your help. Ill do some parts searching for availablility. ;)

[thisismatt]

the 15/16 master is the stocker for the 280zx

And the 280zx booster won't fit, so you'll have to source a B210 booster (or whatever else those tiny boosters came in). You can find remanufactured ones for about $100-120...kind of expensive on a ratsun budget for a booster :P

[ANM21977]

And the 280zx booster won't fit, so you'll have to source a B210 booster (or whatever else those tiny boosters came in). You can find remanufactured ones for about $100-120...kind of expensive on a ratsun budget for a booster :P

 

 

In some of the other posts similar to this one there is no mention of changing the booster. Just modding the rods in the MC. Whats your take on that?

[thisismatt]

In some of the other posts similar to this one there is no mention of changing the booster. Just modding the rods in the MC. Whats your take on that?

Nobody runs the 280zx booster. Many people run the 280zx master cylinder, sure, but not the booster. The booster will not fit, it's effing hugenormous and intersects with the clutch master.

[sssr20det510]

Yes if you use the zx master without a booster than you will need to mod the rod that pushes the master in. If you use the b210 booster than you will not need to mod the push rod

[ANM21977]

Nobody runs the 280zx booster. Many people run the 280zx master cylinder, sure, but not the booster. The booster will not fit, it's effing hugenormous and intersects with the clutch master.

I feel you on the 280 booster what I meant to say was that on some other postings some people mentioned when purchasing the correct 280MC (meaning the one with the mounting holes the same as the 510 top and bottom)that they can bolt the MC of a 280 with out having to change the 510 booster. Have you guys read that too? Or heard of that before? Or is it just safe to go with a different booster? I think it was MicroMachinery that mentioned it on the master cyl upgrade options post.

[inline4]

do i really need to run a booster with my setup?

[thisismatt]

I feel you on the 280 booster what I meant to say was that on some other postings some people mentioned when purchasing the correct 280MC (meaning the one with the mounting holes the same as the 510 top and bottom)that they can bolt the MC of a 280 with out having to change the 510 booster. Have you guys read that too? Or heard of that before? Or is it just safe to go with a different booster? I think it was MicroMachinery that mentioned it on the master cyl upgrade options post.

Without having to change the 510 booster? The 510 doesn't have a booster. :huh:

[ANM21977]

Without having to change the 510 booster? The 510 doesn't have a booster. :huh:

 

 

Well I guess that just shows my inexperience with 510's. I have yet to set hands on mine the minute I bought it I sent it to the shop for paint & body work, & seeing as how I am in Afghanistan I havent had the chance to look it over. I needed a new project and chose this. ANYWAYS, so to recap no booster on the dime and the 280mc can be used with a smaller booster if I chose. I appreciate this info and the patience, it will help me out in the long run (2months). :D

[thisismatt]

Well I guess that just shows my inexperience with 510's. I have yet to set hands on mine the minute I bought it I sent it to the shop for paint & body work, & seeing as how I am in Afghanistan I havent had the chance to look it over. I needed a new project and chose this. ANYWAYS, so to recap no booster on the dime and the 280mc can be used with a smaller booster if I chose. I appreciate this info and the patience, it will help me out in the long run (2months). :D

That is correct. The common booster to use is off the B210. It consists of the booster itself, a large rectangular firewall spacer, and a small diamond shaped spacer, and I believe you need the check-valve in the vacuum line. You must use the spacers, so you can't just order a remanufactured booster and expect it to work unless you get the spacers as well. Here is a picture I edited to point out everything (the spacers are normally just bare aluminum, they've been painted black in this picture):

 

 

I think you can buy brand new boosters from Nissan, but they are like $230. Remanufactured you can find them for around $100, and I just came across this guy on ebay selling a bunch (again, you'll need to source the spacers yourself):

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-78-NISSAN-B210-POWER-BOOSTER-05-9542-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem29fb951661QQitemZ180314510945QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[thisismatt]

Oh, the thing I'm calling a diamond spacer might not be necessary if you use the horizontal bolt pattern 280zx booster, since I think it basically just adapts horizontal to vertical. The booster output rod is adjustable if I remember correctly, so you might not need it as a spacer, but this is just a guess. Here is another pic showing the two spacers separately (these are mine that I powdercoated):

 

[ANM21977]

Oh, the thing I'm calling a diamond spacer might not be necessary if you use the horizontal bolt pattern 280zx booster, since I think it basically just adapts horizontal to vertical. The booster output rod is adjustable if I remember correctly, so you might not need it as a spacer, but this is just a guess. Here is another pic showing the two spacers separately (these are mine that I powdercoated):

 

You the man! :cool:

[510six]

http://www.kragen.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=230&ptset=A&searchfor=Master+Cylinder

 

I just used the brake master from a 67 truck, the smaller master requires less pedal pressure.What I would stronley suggest is a Wilwood proportioning valve, they are less than $50 and allow for perfect front/rear bias.(They sell metric adaptors but you have to ask).A set of Porterfield pads are a good investment as well.

http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Proportioning-Valve-Finish/Natural

[dennis]

280z BMC no rod modifications!!!!

[GingerKid]

On my 69 wagon, I'm running the front struts and brakes from a 78 200sx. The stock master was to small for the larger calipers and they needed to be pumped to build pressure. So I swapped out the stock master with the 7/8 200sx one. Then I added a brake booster from a 76 620 which was a major job. I had to move the clutch slave over and up which also led to a custom built pedal assembly. I then welded the hole back up and had to weld a custom bracket for the booster. It wasn't easy but it looks stock and works great.