Master-O-Turbonics Posted December 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 Rods almost done, set up today for the 3/8" Big Block Chevy rod bolts. Rods reamed up to .374"(old reamer) and bolts polished down to .375". \ Anybody have a good 45cc U67 head? I have been thinking of going to an L4 head for the turbo stuff but don't really want to put much $ into another head unless its pristine Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted December 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 Checked main oil clearances today and they are a good amount and even across the board Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted December 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted December 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 Bottom end assembled. I still have to determine torque values for the rod bolts by rod bolt stretch (6 to 6.7 thousandths of an inch) Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Nice! I like where this thread is going! Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Still have not decided which cylinder head to use... LOL! I have a "210" L16 head which I may use but install bigger valves into and open up the intake ports slightly to 80% of the valve size(think intake charge velocity) Nobody wants to donate even an old U67 head to this project. lol Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 I now have a closed chamber A87 and some other little parts to finish off this engine... time to get the ball rolling on this!!!! Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted July 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 next find... L series front pully with a cog pulley to drive a dry sump oil pump.... and... distributorless front cover (needs to be trimmed a little bit and oil passages blocked off) Quote Link to comment
Tomakze Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Any updates? I need more engine assembly porn. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Did you say you wanted to make 350hp? With stock rods? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 And a dual disc quarter master clutch will last about 6 months driving around town. I had one in a street car once, and it smoked the discs about twice a year. They're great for the track though. Maybe the technology has caught up, does anyone make street discs for that clutch? Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Any updates? I need more engine assembly porn. Nope Did you say you wanted to make 350hp? With stock rods? I'm confident the shortblock could handle that in a turbo application, but i'm going to re-purpose with a thin head gasket and run it N/A or supercharged for a more linear power curve. Not looking to build a dyno queen. L6 guys often use prepped stock L24 rods to around 550hp as long as RPMs are kept below 7000ish. My rods are a good bit longer than L24 rods so that gives a very good R/S ratio which reduces stress on the rod. And a dual disc quarter master clutch will last about 6 months driving around town. I had one in a street car once, and it smoked the discs about twice a year. They're great for the track though. Maybe the technology has caught up, does anyone make street discs for that clutch? I have a standard flywheel that I lightened and a Spec stage 2+ clutch that I'm going to run for around town driving until the car gets ridiculous. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Yeah, I guess I was thinking race application. In a lower RPM motor stock rods are great, but it's the sustained high RPMs that kill them. I used to build a lot of SCCA type motors, and on the GT3 KA24 motors we used Carrillo rods, and replaced the rod bolts every rebuild, which was 3-4 races. Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Yeah, I guess I was thinking race application. In a lower RPM motor stock rods are great, but it's the sustained high RPMs that kill them. I used to build a lot of SCCA type motors, and on the GT3 KA24 motors we used Carrillo rods, and replaced the rod bolts every rebuild, which was 3-4 races. Yeah probably keeping this motor limited to 7000 MAX. I used ARP BBC 3/8" rod bolts. Seen too many ARP 9mm rod bolts fail under extreme circumstances. Built a 2L shortblock for a buddy that kept blowing up built $5000 180hp L4 short blocks(knocking holes in blocks). Sub $1000 short block using L20B crank, Z20E rods and 87mm autozone pistons with the other half of my ARP BBC rod bolt set and he zings his motor to 8000 for many vintage races and track days and its still running strong, although not all of the torque of the big crank motors that he is accustomed to. Changed to a higher ratio rear gear and runs higher RPMs and it makes close to comparable track times. Runs 113 octane VP to preserve the pistons at 11.5:1 compression LOL Quote Link to comment
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